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I can definitely run a 12V blower, servo, and a Pi3B+ without it browning out or ever displaying a negative temperature so something sounds fishy for sure. I see you said it works fine without the servo attached, but have you checked the blower output by itself to see if the blower turning on...

The only ones connected to the HeaterMeter board are 5V/GND/TX/RX and then the SPI pins MOSI/MISO/SCK/G25. I don't think there's any shorts there because it 5V is connected to anything it will kill the Pi immediately and never work (this would have happened on the first test). The other pins if...

I do this all the time and haven't ever killed a Pi. If you don't have the right firmware it just doesn't boot at all because the hardware looks for a specific file on the SD card, it isn't there, and it just sits there outside all of our control. I wonder if newer Pi Zeros have something in...

I run my damper / fan with the same sequence (open at 50%, fan on at 50%) and it works just fine. There is a definite change in slope when the fan kicks in as the fully open damper doesn't pass nearly the same amount of air as the fan does when it kicks in at 1%. You might try making sure...

Wow that is some of the most amazing oscillation I've ever seen, as in it looks like an untuned system and not just random stuff happening. It definitely looks like it needs more D term because that's the term that resists change. You'd want more resistance to change once the temperature starts...

You can just click the alarm icon in the webui home page to silence the alarm if you're not logged in when the popup notification goes off. Just tested it and is working as intended. Note you can only silence an alarm if you're logged in since it requires admin access.

That's definitely unusual behavior. I'd say the loss of configuration is tied to the other issue you're experiencing. The LCD should never be garbled, there's no configuration needed for the LCD to work so it should always initialize properly and display something meaningful (although the...

I can confirm this is the case. Because the LAN is actually a bridge, OpenWRT generates a new MAC address for the bridge adapter on every reboot. Solution: In the webui go to Network -> Interfaces -> LAN (edit) -> Advanced Settings -> Override MAC address and set it to the current address. Save...

Wow that is so pretty. If I tried to bend a copper pipe like that it would just end up shaped like a 56-sided polygon. Nice work!

Sweet! I've used HeaterMeters for all sorts of control operations. Sous vide cooking Beer brewing / mash water heating 3D printer nozzle heating PCB SMD hot plate control Heating a power resistor strapped to a CPU cooler to blow warm air instead of cold air to diffuse solder fumes in the winter...

Is there a probe that has that temperature? I just tested with my HeaterMeters and they all display the right value when the Large Home LCD mode is set to that probe. I've even tried enabling lid mode and it seems to stay working fine.

I don't think any size capacitor is going to make that any better. It looks more like a function of the tiny servo unable to make precise movements of such a small distance. The servos should be authentic. They come from Adafruit and have the Tower Pro / TP markings on the case. If they're not...

Well that sucks that the servo died so quickly, considering I'm using the SG92R from Adafruit which should be authentic and cost me $6 each after shipping, compared to the <$2 SG90 I was using before. I had a few of the MG90S die on me personally pretty quickly and found the SG90 to be more...

Usually that means that there is some binding happening. You can tell if this is the case if you can give the dial a little manual jiggle to to get it to stop. If that's happening, then you can loosen up the dial a bit, or polish the mating surfaces with a soft cloth for a minute or so to remove...

Ah I see. I meant the red pads to the other red pads. The orange at the top and the red at the bottom should be identical as they are just straight direct-connected copies of each other. What other pin did CNT appear to be connected to other than the same pin on the other side?

I'm guessing you meant LCD not LED? I meant just checking them from the pins labeled on the shift register to the pins labeled on the LCD connector. B+ and CNT should not show as connected. B+ is 5V (they are both 5V I mean), but you said CNT was not connected to 5V, so maybe double check that...

Oh nice! I couldn't find that in my search but that looks like it's gonna work. Yeah the international shipping is a killer, it takes forever (25-30 days) and there's zero that can be done if it gets lost on the way. Oddly, I just ordered the last 5V regulators I could find from UK and it was...

No, there should be no reading (Off) when there is no probe connected. To trace the data pins, you have the unit unpowered and use the multimeter's continuity check to verify that you have a connection from A to B, and anything adjacent to A doesn't show as connected to A, and anything...

I'd suggest starting with figuring out why the backlight only works sometimes. That's a simple circuit where the pin from the atmega just comes up the riser pins through the "LBK" pin and goes directly to the BS170 mosfet that controls the backlight. Use a multimeter to trace it out and make...

Nope they don't need to be switched mono jacks for the probes. The original idea was that you could have two things connected to them, so inserting a probe would toggle between the two, but I don't think anyone has used that in a decade so just two pins are all that is needed. If you ordered...