Recent content by Paul Kierstead

I'm totally ok with that! Would hardly be the first time :) Is there any specific place I should look, like defines for port numbers for probe numbers or anything like that? If not, its ok, I'll poke around. The last cook had the thermocouple go a little off many hours into the cook. I can't...

Is there any way to swap them, even if a custom code load is required? My TC is misbehaving a little, I think, but I'd like to run the pit off probe 1 but leave probe 0 operational to compare results. Seems the only way to verify any fix I do actually took.

Thanks ralph. I'll give it a really good look. Ran a boil test with 2 thermistors and the thermocouple, all checked against the thermopen. Other then needing a little offset, they all behaved consistently and perfectly. Sigh. Only reproducible when meat is on... Would an undersized 12 supply...

Here is a graph. The two vertical lines are 2 hours. The orange line is thermocouple; the green line is thermistor right beside it. You can see the thermocouple bouncing up and down, and reading somewhat consistently high (though varying a lot in how much!)

I'm using a heater meter with a thermocouple (from thermoworks). I've done a bunch of cooks with it happily. Yesterday, during a 12 hour cook, the thermocouple started drifting up high; 30-50 degrees high. It doesn't jump up, it drifts up (looking like the pit is getting hot). After a while...

There are two versions for the main part: RSD-BGE-top.stl and RSD-UDS-top.stl. The "UDS" version has the round hole, the "BGE" version has the square hole. You must have printed the UDS version. They should both be in the file. Your best bet is to reprint the BGE version if you need the square...

1. On some Q's you need so little air that the draw through a fully stopped fan will still be too much air. On these (and I suspect an Egg is in that category) you need to be able to choke off even the draw. 2. I pop my fan on and off, no problem, on a door similar to an egg...

Oh wow, that was the software (Octoprint) I wanted but didn't know about. Deployed it on a PI on the weekend, works great!

OSHPark boards are gold finished and should not usually require cleaning. More bare boards (plain copper) oxidize if you look away for a minute and would require cleaner. The ones I make on my CNC (bare copper) are picky to solder. Most quality commercial boards will be coated.

I'm very new to 3d printing, but in my observation slicing software has a long way to go. Me having to set up things like "go slower for a layer under x seconds" instead of the software doing some thermal calculations. Or watching it do a pattern where it does one end, goes up to next layer and...

Printed it (sans cross braces) and it fits really great. When I break out the ABS, I think I'll print it again; I expect to eventually crack it in PLA (which is how I printed it this time) if I put it in and out. Great addition though.

I'd just like to give you a huge thank you for all the incredible work (along with others). I love my heater meter, and I especially love that I built mine using open source designs and software for the most part.

http://198.84.181.57:4001 10lb shoulder, on at about 7AM, hoping to eat at 7PM. My first shoulder. I'm pretty nervous about hitting the mark, maybe I should crutch?

The rotary damper is a servo design (http://tvwbb.com/showthread.php?45296-3D-Printed-Barrel-Servo-Fan) but does, indeed, take the 50mm fan, so you would need a new one, but they can be easily ordered from digikey if you don't mind wasting a fan. I run my primo at 475 with it, no problem, so I...

I had the very old school offset rotary damper printed up and it works great. Downloads easily available. Not sure how big of a pit it can push