First Build Questions and Project log


 

T. Stinnett

New member
It all started last year when I got the bug to build a low buck UDS to smoke with. As with most DIY hobbies, it's went through continuous upgrades/modifications. The natural progression in the obsession is a PID smoker controller. Researching the "ready to run" options, and then the DIY industrial PID setups I stumbled across Brian's original solution using the Linksys router running openwrt. Needless to say for the money, the current HM4 appears to be the most feature rich and budget friendly solution for the DIY crowd who like to roll their own solutions.

I have just ordered the parts list from Mouser, board from OSH Park, and the Ebay Varitronix 4x20 LCD that others seem to be very happy with. This is my first build and I am trying to determine which rPi I should purchase.
I've scoured the forums for setup info for rPi Model "A" an see limited info on configuring wireless from the command line.
I see a few posts stating "Just log in and `wifi-client (params)` and `wifi start`" but I also see mention of editing the network config directly from the console using the vi editor. Looking for feedback.

So for those of you that have used both. "A" or "B"?

Pro's/Con's
The difference in price will pretty much buy the wireless adapter.
The "B" would allow further expandability as a media center/wired network appliance/tinker toy
initial configuration - not as easy as going through the wired connection but how hard can it be?
A's power consumption is said to be a 1/3 of the B (plus for me as I envision a mobile setup, as I have some 12v SLA batteries I can borrow from the kids Power Wheels)

A few other questions:
Mouser is out of stock on the 4-way switch, anyone know of another provider and does anyone see any issues with temporarily omitting it from the build while on backorder?
Mouser is also out of stock on the MCP1700-3302EITO Low Dropout regulator, backordered. I believe this is used for stand alone only mode and could it be again temporarily omitted?

I'm looking forward to the build, and I will post my progress in the thread.
 
I initially thought both rPi models were going to come out at the same time and I wouldn't have even considered getting one with wired ethernet if they hadn't come out first. The wifi-client script makes it easy to set up the basic client configuration without having to tinker with editing the files. This was added just a month or so ago so that's why you still see a lot of posts about configuration file editing. Those are still valid ways of setting it up, but the wifi-client is one line done.

I actually think it is easier to set up if there's no wired connection because everyone seems think they should set up both of them and that could be a headache that ends with wiping and restarting.

I also question the motivation behind multipurposing a single RaspberryPi to be both a HeaterMeter and a media center. It seems an obvious thing to do, you're not using both at the same time all the time so might as well reuse it right? I just find it to be a real pain to unscrew the HeaterMeter case, unplug all the parts, put the "Media Center" SD card in, and plug it in by the TV. I mean effort. It is $35 (with wifi) and I'm not one where I think that's a paltry sum of money, but it is right on the threshold where I feel it is much less hassle to save up and get a second Pi for doing multipurpose things.

I have a couple of HeaterMeters with no switch and there's no problem. It was designed originally to be optionally attached so it is no problem not having it. I wish I could find an alternate part for that though.

Any MCP1700-3300 or MCP1700-3302 part is acceptable. These parts are ubiquitous and made by a dozen manufacturers. I'd recommend getting it because you may need to install to run the HM standalone to debug a build issue and it would be a kick in the johnson if you had to pay shipping again.
 
Bryan,
So we can install the MCP1700 even if we are using the rpi? I got the idea that you should not if the rpi was being used. I assume that was just me missing something. I did wind up buying the part but not installing it.
Secondly, I have not come to understand your wisdom in not trying to access via cat5 and to leave that setting at default. You tried to tell me but at 64 I always think I am right. Your comment about wiping and restarting are spot on. That probably cost me two full days of frustration just because I did not listen to you. Feel free to use me as the example of what NOT to do when these things come up. I am now going to build a second unit so if I need to use one on my Performer for some odd reason I have one. Already have most of the parts anyway. Should I wait until you complete the new version you have talked about or will it matter?
Also, you mentioned using a rpi for a media center. Where can I get more info on that?
Thanks and you have been more than patient with many of us.
 
Theoretically you're not supposed to due to small differences in the output voltage of the rPi's regulator and the MCP1700 causes one to do all the work or fight each other. In practice I've never seen a problem and have it installed on all the HeaterMeters I have (3+).

The "next version" of the HeaterMeter board is several months away, maybe not even this year. There has to be a really compelling reason to change the design and all I have now are a couple of "well that could be a little better" ideas that are also incompatible with the 3D case and plug layout of the current design.

For the media center, google raspberry pi XBMC (the best media center app on the planet for local content, and I'm not just saying that because I wrote some of it). I haven't kept up with it but supposedly it works pretty well.
 
A few other questions:
Mouser is out of stock on the 4-way switch, anyone know of another provider and does anyone see any issues with temporarily omitting it from the build while on backorder?
Mouser is also out of stock on the MCP1700-3302EITO Low Dropout regulator, backordered. I believe this is used for stand alone only mode and could it be again temporarily omitted?

I'm looking forward to the build, and I will post my progress in the thread.

I'm also busy getting components together, I found those two here:

http://www.newark.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp?sku=88H9804
http://www.newark.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp?sku=59M1981

See my earlier post where Bryan suggests an alternate DC power connector.
 

 

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