Steve_M
TVWBB Guru
Thanks. Yeah, I installed the led's to be flush with the display, but they need to come out a little further. I'll take care of that once I sort out my odd TC issue.
What a noob. Just trashed my brand new v4.2.4 build
- Thread starter Steve_M
- Start date
Thanks. Yeah, I installed the led's to be flush with the display, but they need to come out a little further. I'll take care of that once I sort out my odd TC issue.
Steve_M
TVWBB Guru
So, back to semi-trashed v4.2.4 I built.
Was really hoping to revive this unit to be used "headless" but it's not looking very promising.
I'm still having trouble with the thermocouple amp on this unit. It's reading at least 20F higher than it should be.
The continuity tests check out (ie: no solder bridges)
I've scrubbed it all down with some 99% isopropyl alcohol.
The resistors all meter out out the the correct 10K and 1K values
The caps aren't shorted out.
Using my known good v4.2.4 board, I did some additional comparison tests and found 1 interesting thing, though I really don't know if it's a valid discovery:
Using my DMM to test the caps, the 0.1u cap on the 2 boards respond considerably different.
On the good board: Resistance will climb to about 23K ohms and then pretty much sit there
On the wonky board: Resistance will climb up all the way up to 169K ohms. Replacing the 0.1u cap did not change this behaviour.
Here's the voltages I'm reading as well.
Was really hoping to revive this unit to be used "headless" but it's not looking very promising.
I'm still having trouble with the thermocouple amp on this unit. It's reading at least 20F higher than it should be.
The continuity tests check out (ie: no solder bridges)
I've scrubbed it all down with some 99% isopropyl alcohol.
The resistors all meter out out the the correct 10K and 1K values
The caps aren't shorted out.
Using my known good v4.2.4 board, I did some additional comparison tests and found 1 interesting thing, though I really don't know if it's a valid discovery:
Using my DMM to test the caps, the 0.1u cap on the 2 boards respond considerably different.
On the good board: Resistance will climb to about 23K ohms and then pretty much sit there
On the wonky board: Resistance will climb up all the way up to 169K ohms. Replacing the 0.1u cap did not change this behaviour.
Here's the voltages I'm reading as well.
Hi Steve, thanks again with the TC issue. I am wondering how you set your fan to mannual mode in the browser interface? I made the same mistake you did on the LCD and mine is toasted as well, so I can't see if I am in the correct mode or not. I ask because my servo doesn't appear to be working, and I am trying to test it. If you have any other suggestions on how to do that I am all ears. Thanks!
Steve_M
TVWBB Guru
An update on the HeaterMeter of a thousand deaths!
So this scorched heatermeter was sitting on a shelf on my workbench for over a year now. I knew it wasn't quite dead and if needed I could use it for parts. I thought I'd give it another chance at life, and it turned out to be a success!
Things that needed to be done:
1) replace the Q1 BS170 ( wasn't getting 12v at the rj45 jack )
2) add a jumper wire from Q5 to the servo pin on the rj45 jack
3) add a jumper wire from Atmega pin 15 to the LED 1 resistor
4) scrape away all traces on the old thermocouple preamp section
5) solder up the TC components to the v4.1 thermocouple PCB
6) solder the TC +. TC -, Output, Vcc and Gnd wires to the main HM board
7) (bonus) add jumper wires from the RJ45 jack pins 7 & 8 to the TC + and - inputs.
Here's a few pics of the repaired board and the TC amp. The TC amp board is protected with some heat shrink. This will become the HM board for my v0.2 weatherproof heatermeter.
So this scorched heatermeter was sitting on a shelf on my workbench for over a year now. I knew it wasn't quite dead and if needed I could use it for parts. I thought I'd give it another chance at life, and it turned out to be a success!
Things that needed to be done:
1) replace the Q1 BS170 ( wasn't getting 12v at the rj45 jack )
2) add a jumper wire from Q5 to the servo pin on the rj45 jack
3) add a jumper wire from Atmega pin 15 to the LED 1 resistor
4) scrape away all traces on the old thermocouple preamp section
5) solder up the TC components to the v4.1 thermocouple PCB
6) solder the TC +. TC -, Output, Vcc and Gnd wires to the main HM board
7) (bonus) add jumper wires from the RJ45 jack pins 7 & 8 to the TC + and - inputs.
Here's a few pics of the repaired board and the TC amp. The TC amp board is protected with some heat shrink. This will become the HM board for my v0.2 weatherproof heatermeter.
Last edited:
Steve_M
TVWBB Guru
Something wasn't quite right with the thermocouple readings, so I de-soldered the wires from the HM board in order to run through the steps for a TC Amp Test. As it turns out, I'm still incapable of following directions and wired up 9v to the TC amp in reverse and poof went the TC amp. Le sigh. Not sure I want to spend another $10 for a preamp on this things. Might be time to just cut my losses with this one.
Edit:
Bonus! I happened to have a spare AD8495 after all and managed to get it tested and working. A boil test goes to 214F, which is 101.1C, so I think I'm back in business!
Edit:
Bonus! I happened to have a spare AD8495 after all and managed to get it tested and working. A boil test goes to 214F, which is 101.1C, so I think I'm back in business!
Last edited: