Suggestions for pastured, heritage turkey


 
I ordered an 8 lb. pastured, heritage turkey to be delivered fresh the Tuesday before T-Day. She said it would have a much smaller breast than commercial turkey, but more robust flavor. I assume I'll brine it for about 8 hours, then smoke roast at high temp. Anything else I should know about a bird like this?
 
Some feel that brining a heritage should not be done as it nulls flavor distinctiveness. Having raised and cooked a couple or three dozen using several approaches I disagree. I did not always brine, sometimes I dry-brined, but to make it verboten is silly. Use a straight brine though--no additions--just salt, at least for this, your first. Or use a salt-only dry brine. (That, or, if you're pre-disposed to a flavor brine, plan to try another from the same breed, same producer, with a straight brine, dry brine--or none at all--so you can compare.)

Cooking them is different than cooking mass market turkeys: that smaller breast means it will be done sooner than the legs/thighs. Here are some techniques, all of which I've used, which can help:

You can prep (unsalted butter under the skin, oil or butter atop) and cook conventionally, then, then the breast reads done (160 tops)), remove the turkey, separated the whole breast from the rest of the carcass and allow it to rest, returning the leg/thigh/back portion to the cooker for further cooking (depending on the size/breed this can take up to 30 or 40 min more).

You can prep conventionally, then ice the breast, bird flipped, while it awaits cooking. The thigh/leg will warm and the breast will cool allowing it to cook more slowly and more closely match the leg/thigh areas timing-wise.

You can baste the breast--frequently--using a water-based baste (you can use a fat-based for the thigh/leg at the same time, if you wish); do the cheesecloth thing if you wish.

You can combine these last two.

If you dry-brine you'll need to alter the procedural details, obviously, to allow for this.

Results will depend on the breed, its age at slaughter, and how/where it was fed/raised. I rather like heritage turkeys; many don't, preferring the more predictable, (exceedingly) mild flavor and softer texture of commercial turkeys over the fuller, often gamy flavor of some heritage turkeys and their sometimes-more-often-than-not chewier texture. (I usually cooked one from the ranch flock plus one from the store to cover all bases.)
 
Thanks Kevin,

I don't think I would want to do two different turkeys, even though it would be fun to compare. Sometimes we roast a small chicken for one of my relatives who just isn't a turkey fan. No doubt had some poorly prepared turkey (who hasn't?) and wasn't willing to give it another chance.

The dry brine sounds appealing. How much salt would you recommend for a dry brine and how much time would you give it?
 
3.33 T, divided, like so: 1.3 T for the cavity, 2 t for each breast half, .5 t for each leg and each thigh. Unlike with chicken, the salt needs to go on the flesh, under the skin. 24-48 hours, wrapped tightly in plastic.

Since having a brief discussion with Rita on this subject in one thread or another this past spring, I've played with this more, basing my forays on a CI piece, Roger's work and an interview or two, and sundry Net sources. My opinion:

For turkeys, it's essential to use kosher salt (it is much easier to spread evenly, which is necessary) and it's essential to salt the flesh directly. To do this, one must separate the skin (carefully, so as not to tear), starting with the breast side and doing so sufficiently so as to be able to reach the leg meat; and then separate the skin from the back, in order to have access to the thigh meat.

(For small chickens, especially the very small chickens I prefer, skin separation to that sort of point is a PITA and not worth bothering with. Salt the outside, the cavity, and leave it at that. For larger chickens, it's up to the cook. It does shorten the brine time but I'm not sure it's worth it. Kosher should be used if doing an under-the-skin thing for the reason noted above. For salting chicken on the skin instead, either fine salt or kosher works but I think fine is more effective.)

Salt the cavity. Next: Salt the flesh of a leg and breast half on one side first, then the leg and breast half on the other side, then flip the bird and salt the flesh of each thigh. Apply as evenly as possible and massage the salt further to make it as even as you can. Wrap with plastic wrap tightly and fridge the bird.

(The same goes for chickens. If applying on the surface instead of under the skin, simply portion the salt for the cavity and apply, place the remaining portion of salt in a small empty salt shaker, lay out a piece of plastic, then, holding the chicken in one hand backside up, sprinkle the salt evenly over the back and thighs. Place the chicken breast up on the plastic, evenly sprinkle the rest of the salt, wrap and fridge.)

After removing the turkey from the fridge, rinse it well, lifting th skin to let water flow under it. Remember to rinse the cavities. Drain well, then pat dry inside and out with paper towels.

(Same for chicken.)

Err on the side of caution and make your gravy base (if gravy is on the menu) lightly- or no-salted. Adjust salt after finishing the gravy.

It might be worth practicing this once or twice with a chicken before doing it with your expensive heritage to see how you like the approach and to make any adjustments you feel necessary. Get a larger chicken so that the skin thing is easier to do (it's much easier on a turkey). Eyeball the package before purchase to make sure the skin is fairly intact as commercial chickens so often have damaged skin.

The salt proportions are the same 1.25 t DC kosher per pound of chicken. (A scant 1 t for Morton, a scant 3/4 t of fine sea salt if salting a small bird on the surface.) Portion the salt for the cavity and each part of the chicken's flesh appropriately, using the guidelines I noted above for your 8-pound heritage, and give it a shot.
 
I love it, turkey talk starting up, can't wait! I'm going to do a dry run in a few weeks, will be my first turkey in the WSM. I do a Jack Daniel's and Maple Syrup brine and serve it along side my Jack Daniel's Yams, both are always a big hit.

Great tips Kevin.
 
What is the difference between dry brining and curing? A 48 hour application of salt seems like curing. I assume this will bring a fair amount of moisture to the surface.
 
Time is the difference. (Lack of sugar too, though not all cures contain sugar.)

The salt will bring moisture to the surface where it will mix with the salt; then the salt absorbs.
 
Thought I would revive this to see if Kevin/others have anything new to add :) Not cooking the big dinner this round so ordered a heritage to experiment for a smaller family dinner at home. I was really thinking of buttermilk brining but that seemed like something folks would advise against as it would hide subtle differences in the flavor vs a "robo" turkey. Figure I'll start with straigh salt/water brine may flavor a little not much.

I've seen a range of opinions on what temp to cook at anywhere from 350 to 500 or so. Any advice?
 

 

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