Manifold Compatability


 
Yep, Chris owner operator of this site put up a very nice video and lesson plan. One thing for sure. Do them one at a time, go slow, do it on a table with a towel on it (so an errant little piece does not bounce). Get a little packet of brake lube (do not buy SylGlide though). That stuff is HORRID even on brakes and it's supposedly meant for them. The stuff you want is black and high temp (so it won't melt in the valve). And it only takes a pinhead sized amount to lube the cone
 
LMichaels said:
Yep, Chris owner operator of this site put up a very nice video and lesson plan. One thing for sure. Do them one at a time, go slow, do it on a table with a towel on it (so an errant little piece does not bounce). Get a little packet of brake lube (do not buy SylGlide though). That stuff is HORRID even on brakes and it's supposedly meant for them. The stuff you want is black and high temp (so it won't melt in the valve). And it only takes a pinhead sized amount to lube the cone
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Ahh shoot I might just leave them alone... if its only the H, M, L clicking that im nissing I might be able to live with it. Its only temporary anyway until i get my other grill rebuilt. Seems like the more I twisted it them better it was getting so maybe its just been sitting for a while not being used ?
 
DannyGarcia said:
Seems like the more I twisted it them better it was getting so maybe its just been sitting for a while not being used ?
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That could be part of it. I've gotten them to loosen up by just cleaning and lubricating the valve stem. It's a lot easier than completely taking them apart.
 
DannyGarcia said:
What are you cleaning and lubricating them with Steve ?
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I clean them with a wire wheel in my drill and then wipe them down with Gibbs penetrant. You could also use a really fine grit sandpaper. I've done it on a couple of sticky manifolds and it definitely improves them. I think some of the penetrant leaks down into the valve and helps unstick it.
 
DannyGarcia said:
Ill let you know Steve lets see how I end up here after I get these two all taken apart and try to make one
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Yeah, no worries. I have a complete Skyline grill in my garage that I want to restore but the lid has quite a bit of fade on it. A decent looking lid is what's holding me back on that project. I'll find a nice one eventually, the rest of the grill is in fantastic shape.
 
John G (Boston) said:
Bummer about the holes they drilled. The valves should turn smoothly from high to low. There are threads in this forum that show how to dismantle, clean, and re-grease the valves. BUT... If the little screws near the shaft are rusted you will need to be very careful and patient getting them out. So, if the valves work and don't leak I'd leave them alone and run it. Oil the little screws (front and back) so they stop rusting in case you do need to take them apart someday later.
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Man just spraying the manifold down with some simple green to get the crud off got them going ... ill be sure to oil it down after i clean it up
 
Oil gets down into the cone and they do get quite hot, and it bakes into there. Gets things REALLY stiff. It's always best to disassemble, clean and lube carefully
 
LMichaels said:
Oil gets down into the cone and they do get quite hot, and it bakes into there. Gets things REALLY stiff. It's always best to disassemble, clean and lube carefully
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I just looked up the temp rating for 3 in 1 oil. Its 500 degrees. The grease thats shown in that tutorial rates at 600. Im assuming those valves dont heat as hot as the grill itself
 
Larry, what's you second best - OK last ditch - alternative when those small screws just won't give and you are in danger of stripping them when trying to do the first-class disassembly, clean and lubrication of a valve? I have read members here who have used WD-40.

I am interested in your choice if backed into this corner.
 
Jon Tofte said:
Larry, what's you second best - OK last ditch - alternative when those small screws just won't give and you are in danger of stripping them when trying to do the first-class disassembly, clean and lubrication of a valve? I have read members here who have used WD-40.

I am interested in your choice if backed into this corner.
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Just a "touch" of a mix of ATF and engine oil. On the stem. Quite honestly though, (now disclaimer here because I've not done nearly as many as you pro rehabbers), but the only time I've failed is on the Wolf. Did that trick way back when I brought it back to life. 2009 IIRC. Still working fine to this day. But, on that grill the stems are horizontal not vertical so I had a little more leeway of it not getting into the actual valve portion
 
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