HeaterMeter Hardware v4.3.3, v4.3.4, v4.3.5, v4.3.6


 
Hi Steve

If I was in the US you would have an order. I like your design best. Once you get the shipping and customs involved it gets easier just to pickup the fan and servo and print the case myself.

James
 
JamesPike said:
Hi Steve

If I was in the US you would have an order. I like your design best. Once you get the shipping and customs involved it gets easier just to pickup the fan and servo and print the case myself.

James
Click to expand...

Yeah, $15 is kinda ridiculous to ship to Canada. I can understand it costing that much to ship overseas, but Canada? Come on!
 
You are lucky if that is all you get hit with. If the shipper feels like it they can slap on brokerage and customs duties which they have some magic formula for. Generally that is for things that cost more than $50 but I've been pegged below that.
 
I keep trying different ideas on the case to make it easier to print in ABS without warping. My test procedure is to just drop my bed temperature from 105C to 100C which normally will cause some edge lift but still create a usable print. Some people swear by "heat/draft shields" around their prints, which are just extending the skirt around the print all the way up the print. I tried that a long time ago but even at 1mm distance it is relatively far from the print due to it being 1mm away from the model extent, not the model face. We have the technology so why not just model a heat funnel wall around the whole thing that's only 0.6mm from touching the wall. Surely that will help keep heat in right?
U4jq2AI.png

And printed (except with some non-black case parts in it for contrast):


A great idea, but it doesn't make a bit of difference, the edges still lift a bit with the lowered bed temperature, even in a 54C heated enclosure. I committed the change to git for posterity (620e227) but reverted it because I do not want to maintain it.
 
Have you tried BuildTak? I use a similar material (re-branded for my Flashforge) and have had no issues with any print lifting, no matter the size or geometry. I would highly recommend it.

It can leave a white residue when removed, but I just run over it with a heat gun at low settings, and all residue disappears as if magic.
 
I've never tried BuildTak, but these improvements aren't for me anyway. I can print the case just fine, but others have mentioned they had problems with the 4.3 case warping while printing due to the large geometry so I've been experimenting in ways that I can fix the issue at the design level. If I print at 105C it comes out fine, but at 100C it just starts peeling up so I can use that temperature to test new ideas.

Some folks have even noted on their heatermeter store orders that they tried to print their own case but couldn't get it to print without warping so that's why they're buying one.
 
Cool. I may try some tests as well, and post any results here.

I, too, find that 105C bed temp is the magic number for ABS on my printer (pre-buildtak).
 
I have gone to PEI and an aluminum build plate and I now have just the opposite issue, I can't get it off the pei without having to pry it off, lol.

I have had a few Crack around the lcd bezel, but otherwise my warping is non existent. I just have to take an heat gun to the face to remove stress marks and they look awesome.
 
WBegg said:
Just bought somt PET. What feed rate?
Click to expand...

I use simplify3d,
The first layer is very slow, and PET is pretty oozey. You need to make sure the build plate is calibrated really well

Extruder
Retract distance 1.2mm
Extra restart distance 0
Retraction vertical lift .60mm
Retraction speed 2400mm/min
Wipe distance 5 00mm

Layer
Top layers. 3 to 5
Bottom layer 3 to 5
Outline perimeter shell 1

Outline direction inside out

First layer height 96%
First layer width 100%
First layer speed 40%

Optimized for fastest printing

Skirt/brim

Layers 1
Offset from part 1.2 mm
Skirt outlines 4

Infill
Internal Infill patern Rectilinear or honeycomb
Internal fill percentage 30%(PET sags alot)
Outline overlap 10%
Infill extrusion width 103%
Minimum Infill length 2.00mm
Print sparse Infill every 1 layer

Heated bed 80°(this is on 1/8 thick pei and a .250 aluminum plate)

Extruder temp
1 layer 247°
2 layer 242°

No cooling fan.

Default print speed. 3200.00 mm/min
Outline underspeed 50%
Solid Infill underspeed 75%
Support structure undersized 75%
X/y movement speed 12000.00 mm/min
Z axis movement speed 1200.00 mm/min

Bridging
Undersupported area threshold 10
Extra inflation distance 1.00
Bridging extrusion multiplier 140%
Bridging speed multiplier 125%

Allow gap fill when new necessary
Force Retraction between layers
Perform Retraction during wipe movement
Only wipe extruder for outer most perimeter
 
Thanks mate. you have gone well beyond what I expected. Good on ya!!!!

I'll give it a go!

I use Simplify3D as well, so should be an easy setup.
 
Just wanted to say thanks to Brian for all the hard work. I just installed the HM and loving it! Allso everybody else who helped him, but that list would probably be too long to write. THANKS!
 
Please Ignore Below..... I now have worked it out thank you and have the required files.


Hi Everyone,

All my components have arrived for my Heatermeter 4.3 thermocouple and I've found someone to print my case nearby on 3D Hubs for a decent price. Could someone point me to some .stl files for a thermocouple case 9if different) and am I right in saying its better because of warping to print in PLA. I've seen some custom versions on the Thingyverse page but not sure which ones to use.

Thanks in advance for any advice. My head is now spinning lol

Regards

Stu
 
Last edited:
Bryan,

I noticed that the v4.3 board uses 5v on the button circuit compared to 3.3v on the earlier boards. The 3.3v circuit used 4.7k for left button, the 5v board uses 8.2k for left.

I built my 4.3 from the parts from a v4.2 kit.

Should a 10k work in place of the 8.2k or is too far outside the range being detected? The left button is the only one I'm hooking up.

Edit: Yep, 10k works just fine!
 
Last edited:
The choice was made to only bring 5V up to the second board rather than have two different voltage rails because everything up there can run on 5V. The ranges for the resistors are pretty loose, the voltage can be calculated using the code below (out of 255 max)
Code: 
  if (button > 20 && button < 60)
    return BUTTON_LEFT;  
  if (button > 60 && button < 100)
    return BUTTON_DOWN;  
  if (button > 120 && button < 160)
    return BUTTON_UP;  
  if (button > 160 && button < 200)
    return BUTTON_RIGHT;
So left would be 20/255 to 60/255 of 3.3V = 0.259V to 0.776V
 
Thanks. It's a voltage divider circuit? Looks like R1 is the button specific resistor and R2 is 1K?
 
Oh yes forgot to mention that, it is a voltage divider with the top being the button and 1K tied to ground, so 10K would be 5V * 1K/(10K + 1K) = 0.454V so right in the middle of the accepted range. The values for the new resistors were chosen so that they were as close to the original resistors' voltage output as possible but as you can see there is a lot of room for other E12 resistors!
 
I used to think there was something up with the old 4 way button, but now that I've got a dedicated left button on a different HM board, it behaves the same way.

If I push the left button, sometimes lid open mode activates, sometimes it doesn't. Sometimes it activates and then a second later it de-activates on its own. Sometimes I have to hold the button down for about a second for it to activate.

Maybe the button debounce code is too aggressive? Not sure.
 
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