About to start a restore on a 99 genesis 3000


 
M

Mike-in-DE

New member
Hi, at the end of last summer I picked up what I believe is a 99 Weber Genesis 3000. It is in fairly rough shape and I am looking to rehab it back to life, but need some advice and help. Here is how she stands now.





















***apparently I can only upload 10 pictures at a time so the last few will be in the next post***

I have already ordered new grates and flavorizors from rcplane guy and about to order the following from Amazon:
Warming Basket
Warming rack
Igniter (checked and it doesn’t spark)
New castors
New Thermo

I am also considering getting new burners and a new drip pan and pan holder but I am not 100% sure they are actually needed. But with the rest of the money I am already spending I think I just might as well.

I also need to get new hubcaps which I plan to order direct from Weber.


First, before I place those orders is there anything else that I should get as well and is there anywhere else I should order from instead?
Also, is there much that will be able to be done for the fading on the top? Is it likely that will polish out?
When painting, do you guys typically disassemble everything or just mask off the areas that won’t be painted? Is there a recommended paint or just any high temp grill paint?
I plan to just replace all of the wood on it because what isn’t rotted it grease stained. Does anyone know what type of wood was originally on these? I would prefer to keep it original.
I don’t particularly want to change out the quick disconnect for the LP since I do have the original tank, but I also don’t only want one tank available. Do they make adapters to hook up the QD to a regular newer tank?
I am also considering adding a rotisserie. Any suggestions as to which one to get. I would prefer one that I could use on a 22.5" kettle as well if I get the extension ring.

Any and all advice and suggestions would be really appreciated.

Thanks.
 
It looks like you have quite a project ahead of you. I'd guess that the wood is red cedar, by the appearance plus its natural resistance to rot. That's what I would use.
I don't have any experience with high-heat paint, but I know you can get paint made for bbq grills, and paint made for engine parts (up to 2000 degrees). I'd go for the highest temperature rating I could get for the color I wanted to use, and disassemble before painting (I am masking tape challenged, plus taking things apart allows more thorough cleaning and sanding before applying the paint). Be sure to post pictures of the progress of this renovation - you might inspire someone else to bring an oldie back to life. :)
 
I would say that may be more of a mid 90's because IIRC by later 90s they were using the dura wood materials. I think the original wood is redwood I doubt it is cedar as as on mine there was no cedar aroma when I sanded them. BTW I simply sanded mine down and than sealed them with a sealing primer, and found that International Harvester red matched my red head exactly so I painted them and if I could ever figure out how to post a photo here I would. But it did look great done up that way
 
LMichaels said:
I would say that may be more of a mid 90's because IIRC by later 90s they were using the dura wood materials. I think the original wood is redwood I doubt it is cedar as as on mine there was no cedar aroma when I sanded them. BTW I simply sanded mine down and than sealed them with a sealing primer, and found that International Harvester red matched my red head exactly so I painted them and if I could ever figure out how to post a photo here I would. But it did look great done up that way
Click to expand...

I could very well be wrong, but I thought the EE in the serial number meant 99.

IMG_20140402_175540_988.jpg


And I was hoping to be able to restore the wood, but too much of it is actually rotted and I wouldn't want some new boards and some old mixed together.

It may be a moot point though because if I can't get the fading buffed out of the lid and everything else painted decently I won't bother doing anything cosmetic and just make it cook well.
 
For your wood, the only pieces that I would replace are the left top. The others I would refinish and use the opposite side from what is now the face side. No more grease stains. Your burners, grates, flavorizer bars and grease pan will all clean up. It will clean up and be a nice grill with a little time, paint and labor. I might change that front facing damaged whitewall to the back when you install the new axel caps. Show us pictures when your done.
 
LMichaels said:
I would say that may be more of a mid 90's because IIRC by later 90s they were using the dura wood materials.
Click to expand...

THe 'Brand New' 1999/2000 EE 1100 LP Genesis, I was lucky enough to find this year has the timber slats. Not too good on my US timbers but it quite light, white/light colour, that has been stained/painted? a dull grey. This is the same as what was on my 1996 5000 restore machine, but most of the grey stain/paint had faded off, and my 5000 parts machine that had been kept under cover all its life, where the timber was as new.(other than being filthy dirty)
 
The gray slats were the dura-wood product. They would look like they faded (and did to an extent) but the wood slat units were a natural wood color and the dura wood were gray.
 
LMichaels said:
The gray slats were the dura-wood product. They would look like they faded (and did to an extent) but the wood slat units were a natural wood color and the dura wood were gray.
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OK, now I am confused (my natural state, I am starting to believe)

Is Durawood plastic or timber?


"Durawood™ is a light weight application that simulates the look of real wood for interior and exterior architecture applications. This material allows for reduced freight and more efficient installation. Durawood™ is composed of cast polyurethane with a variety of substrates to meet fire rating needs. Durawood™ can be tailored to any species, size, shape and color."

Because the slats on my 1100, and both 5000's are grey stained timber (I think?). Which on my first 5000 (1996) have rotted. Not plastic. Maybe it was an Australian thing? I will double check my 1100 in the morning...(Which is a US unit)

Edit: I checked this morning.They are grey painted/stained wood. This was a Weber purchased in Washington State, USA, in 2000

Happy to be proved wrong.
 
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Hi Mike and Welcome - nice score! My two cents, which is worth about one :) My restorations have consisted of making a fully functional grill, and not a showpiece. I haven't repainted, for example. It sounds like you have a good handle on what you need to do. I have a '98 1000, they are great grills!

The burner tubes look to be in good shape. It doesn't hurt to have second set, though. I guess it'll depend on how much you use it and how you store her over the winter.
The drip pan will clean up w/ a little elbow grease and oven cleaner.
I've never seen porcelain fade, I think you'll be able to steel wool, '0000', it out. Simple Green works here.
I haven't ever repainted.
I like Bob's tip of flipping the wood over.
The tank you have on there has the new valve, you won't need to change the QD (until it cracks)
I think the rotisserie that fits your grill will also fit a 22 1/2" kettle. I would get a confirmation on this statement.
E-mail CS at Weber w/ your serial #, they'll tell you exactly when your grill was made.

Where are you in Delaware, Mike? I grew up in Odessa.

Post pics when you are done!
 
I just saw you're in Australia. It could be Weber did something entirely different there. Here in the USA the only "gray slats" were the plastic "dura" wood not real wood. Australia is a whole 'nother world ;-) One I would love to see but proly never will ;-(
 
Bob H. said:
For your wood, the only pieces that I would replace are the left top. The others I would refinish and use the opposite side from what is now the face side. No more grease stains. Your burners, grates, flavorizer bars and grease pan will all clean up. It will clean up and be a nice grill with a little time, paint and labor. I might change that front facing damaged whitewall to the back when you install the new axel caps. Show us pictures when your done.
Click to expand...

I was thinking about trying that with the wood but my only concern would be getting it all to match. I'm afraid the new stuff would stand out too much. But I think I am at least going to try it first and see how it looks. The grates are rusted and pitted pretty bad, couldn't really tell all the pitting in the pictures and I could probably get by with the flavorizers for the time being but. Figured I might as well just get them since I was already ordering the grates from the guy.

Brian Dahl said:
Hi Mike and Welcome - nice score! My two cents, which is worth about one :) My restorations have consisted of making a fully functional grill, and not a showpiece. I haven't repainted, for example. It sounds like you have a good handle on what you need to do. I have a '98 1000, they are great grills!

The burner tubes look to be in good shape. It doesn't hurt to have second set, though. I guess it'll depend on how much you use it and how you store her over the winter.
The drip pan will clean up w/ a little elbow grease and oven cleaner.
I've never seen porcelain fade, I think you'll be able to steel wool, '0000', it out. Simple Green works here.
I haven't ever repainted.
I like Bob's tip of flipping the wood over.
The tank you have on there has the new valve, you won't need to change the QD (until it cracks)
I think the rotisserie that fits your grill will also fit a 22 1/2" kettle. I would get a confirmation on this statement.
E-mail CS at Weber w/ your serial #, they'll tell you exactly when your grill was made.

Where are you in Delaware, Mike? I grew up in Odessa.

Post pics when you are done!
Click to expand...

Wow, small world. I'm in middletown.

Thanks for the advice.

I know the tank I have now works with the qd but I would also like to be able to hook up one of the 4 other tanks I have to it as well if that one ever dies on me mid cook. Is there anyway to do that?
 
Well I buffed the hell out of the lid with the 0000 steel wool and got nothing so I took a buffing wheel and buffing compound to it and still nothing. I think the lid is gone so I am not even going to worry about doing anything cosmetic to and just just do everything for function.

I did power wash the hell out of the thing inside and out though so the inside of the fire box needs just a bit more scrubbing and then I will call it good and put all the new SS everything in it.

Only one question though, is there any reason that I should paint the inside of the firebox? Or just season it with grease and heat?
 
Don't worry about painting the inside, there is not much point if you use the grill on a regular basis. Also there is always the worry of the paint melting/toxic fumes.
You could still do your restore, excluding the top lid, and be on the lookout for another lid/spare parts gasser from any 1000-5500 Genesis, which will fit your 3000.
 
That's what I figured about the paint.

And I am and will be looking but I'm not going to mess with cosmetics until I find something else.
 
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