2015 Performer Deluxe Restoration

[Peter - BBQPete]

Hey Fellow Weber Fanatics,

I recently acquired a second hand Performer Deluxe in okay condition. I am trying to find stainless steel nuts locking nuts to replace rusted out ones. Would you guys know the list of nuts, washers and screws specs? I know Weber uses 1/4-20 a lot across its product range. Thanks!

 

[A Lee]

From what I recall, 1/4-20 is used on the Performer.

Just trivial info, but a lot of the hardware on the 2nd gen Performer was already 304SS.

 

[Steve Hoch]

The owners manual is a good place to get a detailed list of all the hardware. If you don't have it for that grill you can download one from Weber's website. The assembly instructions can be useful in the reassembly if you're planning to take it completely apart for restoration.

 

[Peter - BBQPete]

Thanks guys! On the left we have what looks like a flex lock nut for locking the bail against the bowl of the Performer. On the right, the lid damper locking nut looks like an open top acorn locking nut - further search suggest it is very similar to the Palnut brand. The user manual from Weber doesn't specify the type of nuts we have. How do I find the stainless steel equivalent or other alternatives? The screws and washers are relatively simple to find in stainless steel.

 

[Peter - BBQPete]

I also notice the area where the bail attaches to the bowl get rust. Do you guys use Navel Jelly to remove rust?

 

[Peter - BBQPete]

Here are more rust photos.

 

[Misha]

Almost like a brand new condition =) Use some sandpaper to clean contacts for burner ignition and tight it good when assemble, also clean up a little screw or bolt that attaches it to the pipe. For bowl, season it well with cooking oil and start cooking on damned grill)) it will season the rust and stop it. It is rusted because person who sold it to you didn't use it properly, eg cooked on it, that is why rust started coming out.
Regarding nuts, just take bolts with you and go to your convenient hardware store and try-on-place what fits and looks better.

 

[Bob Erdman]

You can probably find what your looking for at boltdepot.

Bolt Depot - Product Catalog

boltdepot.com

 

[Kevin L (NKY)]

take any of the bolt to your HD, or local hardware store, and you can use there thread gauge to see get the right size bolt you need, and then add all the other hardware you need plus a few. in whatever type you want coated steel, or stainless steel. that way there is no guessing

 

[Peter - BBQPete]

 

[Peter - BBQPete]

I will use etching primer and high-heat BBQ paint for the rusted areas. I actually got a quote from IPE for restoration work. Let's just say it costs more than buying a brand-new bowl from Weber before shipping.

 

[Steve Hoch]

I will use etching primer and high-heat BBQ paint for the rusted areas. I actually got a quote from IPE for restoration work. Let's just say it costs more than buying a brand-new bowl from Weber before shipping.

Yeah, you would have to be a special kind of grill nut to do that for a kettle unless it was really old one. I would get it then

 

[TomRc]

I’m a fan of self-etching primer myself and am not a paint expert by any means, but I found it interesting to learn that both Krylon and Rustoleum both specifically do not recommend using a primer under their high-heat paints. I’ve never found out for certain why, but I suspect most primers just can’t withstand the heat which would defeat the use of the high heat paint on top of it. This leaves me wondering if your proposed method would hold up to the test of time. I do a lot of gasser restorations and have found a high heat 2000º rated primer from Rustoleum to use under the Krylon high heat black that works well. I do use a Rustoleum etching primer under the regular Krylon black enamel for the frames with great results. Good luck with the rest of the project!

 

[Dave in KC]

Yeah, you would have to be a special kind of grill nut to do that .....

Beyond guilty.
Many times over.

 

[Peter - BBQPete]

I’m a fan of self-etching primer myself and am not a paint expert by any means, but I found it interesting to learn that both Krylon and Rustoleum both specifically do not recommend using a primer under their high-heat paints. I’ve never found out for certain why, but I suspect most primers just can’t withstand the heat which would defeat the use of the high heat paint on top of it. This leaves me wondering if your proposed method would hold up to the test of time. I do a lot of gasser restorations and have found a high heat 2000º rated primer from Rustoleum to use under the Krylon high heat black that works well. I do use a Rustoleum etching primer under the regular Krylon black enamel for the frames with great results. Good luck with the rest of the project!

Tom, I didn't know that Rustoleum doesn't recommend using primer and its high-heat paint in a hot-hot Q. I only learned this trick from Barbecue Build's channel:

 

[Peter - BBQPete]

Beyond guilty.
Many times over.

Dave, you must have spent a small fortunate on new porcelain finish. Did you get it done at IPE?

 

[Dave in KC]

Dave, you must have spent a small fortunate on new porcelain finish. Did you get it done at IPE?

Yes! Top notch quality.