SCORE! No more filthy dirty G1K....
- Thread starter T Waite
- Start date
I have an LX too, it's the grill featured in the other 'Dirty, Filthy G1K' thread. The firebox and frame on that grill are shot. The table is intact and in good shape, the two of them together will make a nice grill. I'll have complete spare sets of burners and grates, and maybe a few bars too.
Tough to resist a redhead!
Tough to resist a redhead!
Michael William
TVWBB Member
Awesome find!
A big thanks to the seller, who is not a member here but does lurk! Grill is as advertised and better. Frame appears to be in excellent condition, firebox is grade A+.
Nope! He was in the process of refinishing the wood and forgot to include it in the description. I have it and will complete the process along with the handle and side table. Very cool!
Nope! He was in the process of refinishing the wood and forgot to include it in the description. I have it and will complete the process along with the handle and side table. Very cool!
So, red is about as disassembled as it can get
Frame was degreased, given a light sanding to abrade the surface for adhesion, and painted with a gloss high-heat BBQ paint.
I have a theory about the rotting cross-member you typically find on these. Why does this one spot rust out but the rest of the grill doesn't?
It's the bolt. Not because there's a hole there, but the bolt itself. This is the only spot on the frame where a bolt penetrates a mostly-sealed tube and goes directly into the firebox. the bolt causes heat to be transmitted to the tubing more efficiently than anywhere else on the grill, which causes more expansion and contraction in the tubing more than anywhere else. This in turn causes the finish to crack and let moisture in. In order to combat that, I am doing the following:
First, I oversized the heck out of the holes for the bolt to pass through to make sure the shaft of the bolt never touches the tube. Second, I drilled a good sized hole on the bottom of the tube at each end to let air pass through. This will keep the tubing a little cooler and let moisture out. Lastly, I will use a heat rated caulk or gasket material to make a liner for the outer washer. By doing that, the bolt will never have direct contact with the tubing. I painted the heck out of the holes and got as much paint in as I could.
Frame was degreased, given a light sanding to abrade the surface for adhesion, and painted with a gloss high-heat BBQ paint.
I have a theory about the rotting cross-member you typically find on these. Why does this one spot rust out but the rest of the grill doesn't?
It's the bolt. Not because there's a hole there, but the bolt itself. This is the only spot on the frame where a bolt penetrates a mostly-sealed tube and goes directly into the firebox. the bolt causes heat to be transmitted to the tubing more efficiently than anywhere else on the grill, which causes more expansion and contraction in the tubing more than anywhere else. This in turn causes the finish to crack and let moisture in. In order to combat that, I am doing the following:
First, I oversized the heck out of the holes for the bolt to pass through to make sure the shaft of the bolt never touches the tube. Second, I drilled a good sized hole on the bottom of the tube at each end to let air pass through. This will keep the tubing a little cooler and let moisture out. Lastly, I will use a heat rated caulk or gasket material to make a liner for the outer washer. By doing that, the bolt will never have direct contact with the tubing. I painted the heck out of the holes and got as much paint in as I could.
Duly noted.
Hey now, this is important stuff! Let's not be so cavalier!
http://tvwbb.com/showthread.php?61103-Bored-so-here-s-a-pic
THyde
TVWBB Guru
I think that spot rusts also because water sticks to the bolt. As it dries, you will see that water will remain near that bolt, which helps rust. So what you have done is a pretty great idea, but I'll be very curious to see how it holds up over time. As long as the paint is waterproof and the hole has all the bare metal sealed, you may just have hit on the solution to the rust problem there.
My Genesis Silver B had rust also where the cookbox sat on it, also because the water would be there longest, and there would be water there from dew, not necessarily rain. Just a lot of water exposure.
Just thinking about rust.
Did you weed whack and blow too? Can't do half a job!
My Genesis Silver B had rust also where the cookbox sat on it, also because the water would be there longest, and there would be water there from dew, not necessarily rain. Just a lot of water exposure.
Just thinking about rust.
Did you weed whack and blow too? Can't do half a job!
Galvanic corrosion between which parts? There is certainly an issue between the firebox and bolt. I am talking about the frame.
Galvanic corrosion occurs when the metal in two parts are mismatched, such as steel and copper, which is why you install a dielectric fitting in between when you install a water heater.
In this case we have a mild-steel frame and what appears to be a mild steel bolt with zinc plating. There is no GC there.
Edit:
I think I figured out your point. A mismatch exists between the fire box and mild steel bolt. When the bolt starts to rust from GC it eventually finds it's way into the tubing. That makes perfect sense and adds to my theory. My modification should help that as well, by keeping the bolt away from the metal.
Interesting note, my box has a SS bolt with a thru-hole and nut on the inside.
Galvanic corrosion occurs when the metal in two parts are mismatched, such as steel and copper, which is why you install a dielectric fitting in between when you install a water heater.
In this case we have a mild-steel frame and what appears to be a mild steel bolt with zinc plating. There is no GC there.
Edit:
I think I figured out your point. A mismatch exists between the fire box and mild steel bolt. When the bolt starts to rust from GC it eventually finds it's way into the tubing. That makes perfect sense and adds to my theory. My modification should help that as well, by keeping the bolt away from the metal.
Interesting note, my box has a SS bolt with a thru-hole and nut on the inside.
Last edited:
LMichaels
TVWBB 1-Star Olympian
I think I figured out your point. A mismatch exists between the fire box and mild steel bolt. When the bolt starts to rust from GC it eventually finds it's way into the tubing. That makes perfect sense and adds to my theory. My modification should help that as well, by keeping the bolt away from the metal.
BINGO ;-)
Interesting note, my box has a SS bolt with a thru-hole and nut on the inside.
If that is the case someone caught it because Weber does not build them that way. Heck a SS bolt might set them back an extra $.05 per grill. Gotta make that margin you know. On my grills I modified them and used a SS carriage bolt. No more corrosion
BINGO ;-)
Interesting note, my box has a SS bolt with a thru-hole and nut on the inside.
If that is the case someone caught it because Weber does not build them that way. Heck a SS bolt might set them back an extra $.05 per grill. Gotta make that margin you know. On my grills I modified them and used a SS carriage bolt. No more corrosion
So a bit more progress. I've been scrubbing, painting, and puttering about. Burners were soaked, wire brushed, scrubbed with SOS pads, rinsed clean and blown out with an air hose, then set on a table to finish drying for a couple of days.
Things are going back together nicely. I expect that it'll be ready for a cook this weekend. After getting it to this point I lit it up, I'd really hate to get it done and find a problem with the burners! All three lit easily and had perfect blue flames.
This area almost looks new!
Things are going back together nicely. I expect that it'll be ready for a cook this weekend. After getting it to this point I lit it up, I'd really hate to get it done and find a problem with the burners! All three lit easily and had perfect blue flames.
This area almost looks new!
Done. Very happy with the end result. So far I have purchased zero parts, I got everything from the two grills. I ended up with two sets of burners, two grates, two ash pans, and a lot more extras. The only thing I have to purchase is the thermometer. Unfortunately the cost to ship is higher than the part, so I'll wait until I needs FB's or something.
The Durawood tables are from the first grill. I am using them until I get the real wood tables refinished. They need to be completely taken down and start from scratch.
Now I need some recommendations for her inaugural cook!
The Durawood tables are from the first grill. I am using them until I get the real wood tables refinished. They need to be completely taken down and start from scratch.
Now I need some recommendations for her inaugural cook!