Robert,
That roaster looks pretty cool. Can you provide some details on the build? Do you design it yourself? Please advise...
Regards,
John
Thanks! It's pretty simple. It's my design based on watching u-tube vids and looking at web pages of folks that make & sell them. No build pix as such.
The end plates are 3/16 steel (you could use 1/8") approximately 10" in diameter. Why 10"?... because that is the largest I could make them without hitting something inside the grill. Larger is bettter because a long Anaheim can get stuck crosswise in a smaller cage. That was one of the problems with version 1.
I drilled a hole in the center of each plate that would handle a 5/16" roto spit.I wrapped a 1" x 1/8" metal strap around the circumference of the disks & welded them together to form a rim. A continuous weld around the circumference of the plate is not necessary.
Next, determine how long you want to make the roaster. Version 2 is approx 15". It gets heat from the 2 center burners and the roto burner in the gasser. This measurement would be dependent on the design of your gasser. I then cut a piece of expanded metal that was approx 2/3 the length of the circumference of the diameter of the end plates and slightly less than the length of the roaster to accommodate for welds on the inside of the rim of the roaster. Next... "fit" this inside the end plates. Fun!!! I then butt welded four 1" x 1/8" bar stock to the rims of the metal plates. The idea is to start the first bar & finish the last bar with the expanded metal centered on them. Bar clamps come in handy. Lightly tack things & check for square before final welding. The 2nd & 3rd bar get spaced evenly between the first two. Once square: weld it. Next.... lightly tack the expanded metal to the inside of the plates. On the outside of the plates & centered on the holes I welded a 7/16" shaft collar (available at Ace hardware or other hardware stores). Fit the roto spit to the shaft collars & have the hex screws face the opening in the roaster & on the same side of the roto spit before welding.
I found with version one that the chilies would slide instead of tumble as the roaster rotated. Probably because of the small diameter. So I included in version 2 & 3 some "paddles". They are 1" x 1/8" flat stock set "vertical" to the expanded metal on the inside of the roaster. I use 2 of them fillet welded to the inside of the end plates.
Voila!!! All that's left is the door & balancing.
For the door, I bent 1" x 1/8" flat bar to accommodate the outer circumference of the roaster & cut to length so that it overlaps the metal frame of the opening by 1/2" top & bottom. The length of the other two pieces of flat stock is determined by the length of the roaster. They should be cut so the width of the door is 1/2" shorter side to side than the length of the roaster. The piece of expanded metal should be slightly smaller than the opening on the roaster. It's curved so allow for this when cutting. Tack weld it to the inside of the door. I used some small hinges from the hardware store & welded them to the door & the door opening frame. Had to use a couple of 1/8" spacers to get the hinges to set level. For the door "latch": I welded a tab to the other side of the door in the middle & drilled a hole through it and the flat stock on the roaster. I tapped the hole on the roaster for a 3/16" bolt & drilled the hole on the door for 3/16"... maybe a bit larger. I then ran the bolt from the inside of the roaster and cut it so it extended around 3/16". Next I closed the door & ground the bolt flush with the tab. I was pleased that the "latch" works so well. To open the door, insert a flat blade screwdriver & pop it open. There is enough give & spring action in the flat stock to make for a sturdy & trusty "latch".
To balance the roaster, insert the spit & hold the contraption by the spit, let gravity have it's way & see what is the heavy side. Most likely it will be the door. Next tape some flat stock to the light side & see how much is needed for counterweight. Once this is determined, cut equal lengths of flat stock, bend them to fit the circumference of the end plate & weld them on.
Finally you will need to cut the spit so that it doesn't extend through the roaster. Or get some 5/16" square bar from the hardware store. The chilies will not tumble properly if the spit goes through the center of the roaster: another lesson from version 1.
Almost there! Assemble your new roaster to the spit, spray with Pam or brush with canola oil, turn on the rotisserie motor, light the burners, close the lid & season on high until it it quits smoking.
You'll have to make a few trial runs to determine cooking times. I pre-heat the grill, add the roaster, turn on the spit & cook with the grill closed. I turn off the burners, stop the the spit motor, open the grill, remove the roaster & place it upon the grill grates before opening it up to remove the chilies. You will need some heavy duty gloves when adding & removing the roasterl. $10 or so will buy some welding gloves at Home Depot.
fwiw - I get most of my metal from scrap metal yards. Don't get heavy duty expanded metal, it will be a bear to bend. Do not use galvanized metal. Please note that all directions/measurements are approximate & let common sense be your guide.
Good luck. If anyone makes one - post up w/ pix, please. All comments appreciated.
paddle:
hinge:
latch:
shaft collar:
edge of door:
counter weight:
I'm going on vacation for several weeks & probably won't have access to a computer or internet. See you later!
