How to verify servo is working?


 
A

Andrew K

New member
Got everything wired and working but I don't know how to test that the servo is wired correctly to the rj-45 cable. Everything is still at default settings for the pid at this point. Any help would be great!
 
dont pay attention so much to the colors, i make cables all the time and as long as pin to pin are right, color makes no different, hook the cable up to a box and grab pin 3, 4, 5 and wire them to your servo
 
From what I understand all I need to do is hook up the servo to the ethernet cable. Do I need to do anything else on the board?
 
JHalasz said:
dont pay attention so much to the colors, i make cables all the time and as long as pin to pin are right, color makes no different, hook the cable up to a box and grab pin 3, 4, 5 and wire them to your servo
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Well, not completely true for Ethernet OR the HM. Inside a CAT5 cable the wires are twisted in pairs, this is done to cancel noise. If you mix up the color sequence when you crimp the wires you can get cables that have the pairs split and noise can be transfered which can limit communications and prevent network links, particularly high speed connections over long cables.

The same goes for the HM, you do NOT want to run a probe lead (particularly the pit probe) in a twisted pair with the power or ground from the servo or blower, because noise will be transferred easily to that probe. The way I have the CAT5 pinout labeled pairs the pit probe and probe ground and the other two food probes are paired together as well, this minimizes cross talk noise in the wires. In my initial experiments with using probes over CAT5 cables I didn't pay attention to how the wires were paired and I got a LOT of interference and the probes were very rocky when the servo and/or blower was changing position/speed. So it is important to have a the wires in proper order in your CAT5 cable and use the pinout I have detailed in the RD thread. You can mix up the probes and probe grounds, but I recommend you keep the pit probe and probe ground on the same twisted pair so the pit probe is as stable as possible, which in turn will make the servo as stable as possible.

EDIT: The proper order for wires in a CAT5 cable is W/OR - OR - W/GR - BL - W/BL - GR - W/BR - BR
 
Andrew K said:
From what I understand all I need to do is hook up the servo to the ethernet cable. Do I need to do anything else on the board?
Click to expand...

To hook up the servo you need 3 wires, gnd, +5v and the servo SPD lead. On the servo Brown is ground, Red is +5V, Orange is SPD
 
Ralph,

you are correct, my point was, the color is not important, pin 1 is pin one reguardless of if it is orange, or pink (i have seen pink, purple, yellow...)
 
but my point is it is important to follow the sequence above with the wires, you woudn't want for instance pin 3-6 to be in the same twisted pair with pin 1-2 or 7-8
 
but my point is it is important to follow the sequence above with the wires, you woudn't want for instance pin 3-6 to be in the same twisted pair with pin 1-2 or 7-8

And for network cables it is very important, trust me... Many years ago when 10M was the only network speed around I would crimp cables with random colors, as long as they match on both ends its all good, right? Well, no.... because when the network speed boosted up to 100M I started to find some of the cables wouldn't link at 100M reliable, which was a frustrating situation. So I started to adhere strictly to the proper sequence and what do you know, the same cables link at 100M fine...
 
RalphTrimble said:
To hook up the servo you need 3 wires, gnd, +5v and the servo SPD lead. On the servo Brown is ground, Red is +5V, Orange is SPD
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All 3 wires from the servo connect directly to the ethernet cable or some goto the board too? If anyone has a picture of proper connections that'd be super.
 
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can you explain again what it is you are trying to do?

the ethernet cable ideally will be plugging in to a jack, the servo will be hooking to the other side of the jack into the punch block. There should be no wires hooking up to any board, unless you have one of them lil boards that Ralph and... uh John? made.
 
I don't understand your question/confusion. The CAT5 jack on the HM is wired to the board, so when you connect those center four pins of the CAT5 cable to the servo and blower you are connecting them to the board. The CAT5 jack pinout can be found on the HM schematic and I also put a diagram in my "Introducing the Roto Damper" thread, its near the end, last couple pages.

PS. the Above applies to HMv4.1 and later, if you have a HMv4.0 or earlier then you don't have a CAT5 jack on your board and would have to manually wire the servo to the power and ATMega.
 
So if I wire the servo to the orange, orange/orangewhite and ground the brown wire the servo should work, correct? And to test I should put the fan in manual mode and increase to 100% and the servo should do something, correct?
 
No, not correct, with most standard ethernet cables the orange pair is the first pair and the brown pair is the last. The CENTER FOUR wires are the ones for the blower and servo. Typically the Bl/Bl-Wh are the center two, which are the blower signal and ground, leaving the green pair for the servo PWM and power in addition to sharing the ground from the blower. If you have your CAT5 wire colors in a different order then you will have to figure out the colors on your own.
 
RalphTrimble said:
No, not correct, with most standard ethernet cables the orange pair is the first pair and the brown pair is the last. The CENTER FOUR wires are the ones for the blower and servo. Typically the Bl/Bl-Wh are the center two, which are the blower signal and ground, leaving the green pair for the servo PWM and power in addition to sharing the ground from the blower. If you have your CAT5 wire colors in a different order then you will have to figure out the colors on your own.
Click to expand...

Maybe this is it. I took what the how to said as if it is a straight through then its the o,o/w pair. Will check when I get home.

To test the servo is working do I set the fan to manual and go to 100% on the heatermeter? Will this make the servo do something to verify the wiring is correct?
 
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