Lid hardware and burner retention - full Genesis 1000 restoration project

Greetings TVWBB people,

Inspired in large part by photo threads I saw on this forum, I am nearing the end of a full restoration of a Weber Genesis 1000 series LP grill. I'm a materials engineer by background, so I've been working to reduce the galvanic corrosion mistakes made in the original grill design. I have a couple of hardware related questions below.

Completed to Date:

1. Purchased old Genesis 1000 with stainless internals ($65)
2. Purchased older Spirt 300 series for parts ($25)
3. Complete teardown, all components
4. Drilled out 2x drip pan screws
5. Drilled out 2x burner retainer screws
6. Frame sanded -> cleaned -> prepped -> repainted
7. Media blasted grill castings and stainless internal pieces
8. Partially re-assemble grill frame

Questions:
1. I need to replace the stud and nuts that retain the end castings to the porcelain lid. The only official-looking hardware kit part I can find is the following: (http://www.appliancefactoryparts.com/search/part/552800//). Since most of the other hardware I've been able to obtain from McMaster or Fastenal, I'm wondering if there is another source for these pins, which look like an overgrown clinch stud. $45 for this hardware, which didn't last very well the first time, seems pricey.

2. I have 4x holes in the main casting I had to drill out. Two are the infamous burner retaining screws, and two were on one side of the drip pan retaining rail. I planned on using stainless threaded inserts (heli-coil) in each of these holes, but I am wondering if anyone has other suggestions, especially for the burner mounts.

3. What size and threading are the keps nuts (K-lock) nuts that retain the main grill handle to the two lid castings?


I'll make sure to post some pictures of the finished result. My media blasting house did a very nice job, the castings and stainless look like new.

Thanks in advance,

Are you building a museum piece or a working grill? Seriously, you're way too overboard on this venture.

Phil Graham said:

Greetings TVWBB people,

1. I need to replace the stud and nuts that retain the end castings to the porcelain lid. which didn't last very well the first time.

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The Genesis 1000 hasn't been around for like 20 years. How did the studs/nuts not last? I've restored a number of Genesis grills and that's one area I'm yet to complain about. Call Weber and see if they still have them. If they do, also add the handle nuts/bolts to your order.

2. I have 4x holes in the main casting I had to drill out. Two are the infamous burner retaining screws,

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There's no need to remove the burner retaining screws. The burner tubes are notched and slip into/out of those screws without removing.

Chad Bman said:

Are you building a museum piece or a working grill? Seriously, you're way too overboard on this venture.

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Chad,

I simply like to be thorough. I don't know that I would cast aspersions on someone else's project without context. Proper cleaning and surface prep insures good adhesion of the new paint. I'm interested in having this grill last another 20 years.

The Genesis 1000 hasn't been around for like 20 years. How did the studs/nuts not last? I've restored a number of Genesis grills and that's one area I'm yet to complain about. Call Weber and see if they still have them. If they do, also add the handle nuts/bolts to your order.

Click to expand...

To be fair, most of the studs were salvageable, but not all of them. All of the push nuts were a lost cause. This particular grill appears to have been operated at high temperatures by whoever owned it previously. There was visible gibbsite and/or brucite formation on the manifold side of the casting at the bottom of the firebox. Media blasting was an easy way to remove the buildup and clean the grill of carburized grease.

There's no need to remove the burner retaining screws. The burner tubes are notched and slip into/out of those screws without removing.

Click to expand...

They've been long since drilled out. I slipped the burner tubes out initially, as you say. Same for the drip pain rail retainer screws.

Hi Phil,

I have just completed a (near) full restore of a Genesis 5000, which I am really happy with.

Phil Graham said:

Greetings TVWBB people,

B]Questions:[/B]
1. I need to replace the stud and nuts that retain the end castings to the porcelain lid. The only official-looking hardware kit part I can find is the following: (http://www.appliancefactoryparts.com/search/part/552800//). Since most of the other hardware I've been able to obtain from McMaster or Fastenal, I'm wondering if there is another source for these pins, which look like an overgrown clinch stud. $45 for this hardware, which didn't last very well the first time, seems pricey.

2. I have 4x holes in the main casting I had to drill out. Two are the infamous burner retaining screws, and two were on one side of the drip pan retaining rail. I planned on using stainless threaded inserts (heli-coil) in each of these holes, but I am wondering if anyone has other suggestions, especially for the burner mounts.

3. What size and threading are the keps nuts (K-lock) nuts that retain the main grill handle to the two lid castings?,

Click to expand...

1. I too had this problem, with the nuts pretty much corroded on to the bolts. Despite much soaking in WD-40, I had to destroy three or so nuts to get the lid apart. I had a fair few other corrosion problems, so I decided to substitute SS fittings for the originals all over the 5000. So I just took the nuts, bolts, and screws down to my local engineering shop, and let them sort out the SS replacements . For the lid bolts I used some SS Allen bolts, which look fine. ( I think the current gas grills use these anyway)

2. I also have this problem with the drip pan rail screws (the rails are in pretty bad shape, but the screws seem corroded 'in'). The bolt that locates the cooking box to the frame, luckily for me had completly corroded away, and just fell out as flakes of rust.(replaced that with SS). The two thumb screws that locate the manifold to the cooking box have also pretty much corroded (they do not have much of a thumb left) but the burners are fine so I have not had to touch them yet. (I restored the cookbox with the burners/manifold attached)

3. I replaced my handle nuts with SS Allen bolts. I have kept the old ones- happy to take them down to my new friends at the engineers and they can size it up for you.(And yes, Chad they think I am quite mad putting SS fittings into an old BBQ)

I do not get the chance to do much with my hands.(nor do I have much of an idea of what to do either) The simple fixing up of somthing that is well built, and can work just as well as an expensive new one, has been quite fun for me. It is a new hobby, one I think is much more practical than say, restoring an old car, or boat, which would be well beyond my capacity. So Phil, bravo for doing a restoration 'properly'. I think I understand that with you being a materials engineer it would drive you crazy to look at somthing you had 'part' fixed. To each their own.

I wish I knew how to drill out bolts and heli-coil replacements in........

Stephen R said:

Hi Phil,

I have just completed a (near) full restore of a Genesis 5000, which I am really happy with.

1. I too had this problem, with the nuts pretty much corroded on to the bolts. Despite much soaking in WD-40, I had to destroy three or so nuts to get the lid apart. I had a fair few other corrosion problems, so I decided to substitute SS fittings for the originals all over the 5000. So I just took the nuts, bolts, and screws down to my local engineering shop, and let them sort out the SS replacements . For the lid bolts I used some SS Allen bolts, which look fine. ( I think the current gas grills use these anyway)

Click to expand...

I too ended up with stainless steel Allen button head screws, stainless washers, and stainless lockwashers.

2. I also have this problem with the drip pan rail screws (the rails are in pretty bad shape, but the screws seem corroded 'in'). The bolt that locates the cooking box to the frame, luckily for me had completly corroded away, and just fell out as flakes of rust.(replaced that with SS). The two thumb screws that locate the manifold to the cooking box have also pretty much corroded (they do not have much of a thumb left) but the burners are fine so I have not had to touch them yet. (I restored the cookbox with the burners/manifold attached)

Click to expand...

I removed the manifold thumb screws and replaced them with stainless hex head machine screw hardware in the same manner as the lid hardware above. After I drilled out the drip pan screws and had the grill casting media blasted, I ended up using some self tapping screws to re-attach the drip rails after painting. These self-tapping screws worked well enough that I ordered more to anchor the burners to the casting where I had to drill the originals out.

So Phil, bravo for doing a restoration 'properly'. I think I understand that with you being a materials engineer it would drive you crazy to look at somthing you had 'part' fixed. To each their own.

Click to expand...

The end product is a tool I want to work well and be reliable for a long time with minimal fuss, unlike the Chinese grills I've owned previously. Hence the overkill on restoring the unit.