Aging Beef Tenderloin?


 

Rita Y

TVWBB Emerald Member
I usually age my standing rib roasts for 7 to 10 days at about 34-36°F. I was planning to do the same for a beef tenderloin, not necessarily to tenderize it but to concentrate its flavor.

Is there any reason not to do this to a beef tenderloin?

What about other cuts of beef?

Rita
 
Unless I am doing a last minute thing I always age tenderloins. The benefit is even greater than aging rib roasts (which I do as well) as the flavor of tenderloin is rather weak when first purchased. Go for it.
 
I don’t know how to age a tenderloin, but I know they’re good if you do. I went to a restaurant once and aged tenderloin was the beef special. My wife played it safe and ordered the regular tenderloin. I finished my steak and my wife had a bit left, so I tasted hers. I felt bad that I didn’t share any of mine with her. I didn’t realize they would be so much different. I’ve been back to the restaurant, but they haven’t offered the aged tenderloin on a day I’ve been there.
 
Kevin - how are you aging your beef? The only way I've done it is like Alton Brown did in one of his episodes - using a plastic container with holes in the bottom to allow blood to drain and air to flow.

When doing it at home, how would you recommend doing it? Anything I should keep in mind to prevent aging from becoming rottening? I'm sure my attempts at the expiriment would result in the latter...

Also, I assume you'd really only age larger cuts, like rib roasts or roasts of some sort. But do other cuts of meat benefit from aging? Like, what if you aged chuck? Would the benefits be nullified by the braising or stewing or whatever else you did? What about round or eye roasts? Any value in it? (you can see what I'm getting at... do cheap cuts (i.e., what I can afford) benefit at all from aging)?
 
Kevin, I'm curious also. I age brisket in the cryovac all the time, but that's kind of a no-brainer. I have no idea how to go about it once it's hit the air.

Keri C, still smokin' on Tulsa Time
 
Adam, Keri--

I age roasts on racks on sheetpans with a towel draped on the meat (it gets replaced a couple times a day) and age for, usually, 5 days.

Alton Brown's perforated bin idea is a good one. Keri, Chris describes it here. The only thing I'd add to it (I'm not sure if AB includes this directive but Chris doesn't so I'm thinking not) is to use a rack in the bin so the roast has good airflow under it as well, something I think is quite important. I have not done the perfed bin thing myself as yet but plan to with my next roast. I have a second fridge I can use for aging, need not access it for anything during the aging process (except to change the towels), so am unconcerned about the potential for odor contamination, dripping or spiliing of other food items, or temp swings sine I can make sure that fridge is clean and ready from the get-go.

The things to keep in mind to prevent aging from becoming rottening:

Your fridge must be able to maintain 34-36 degrees (you can go to 38 but not over that) for the aging time which means that if you have a single fridge you must set things up so that you minimize opening the door (and when you must open the door it's opened and closed quickly). Frankly, the easiest way to do this is to remove most of the stuff you'll likely want access to and put it in one or two coolers stocked with ice. When I had one fridge I'd move the juices, milk, half-and-half, ice tea, butter, bacon, vegs, etc., to a cooler, and move things I might want (quick) access to up to the top shelf. The aging roast wouls go on the bottom shelf and I'd build a barrier of sorts between it and the door by lining up pickle jars, mayo jars--whatever--sides touching, so that if I needed to open the door the meat woulb be less like to be hit with a blast of warm air and all those cold jars of food would help that area of the fridge return to the proper temp more quickly if the door had been opened (that was my logic anyway). If circumstances are such that you're unable to maintain the proper conditions for aging do not age the meat.

Do not trim or poke the meat in any way prior to aging.

Aging should be reserved for larger roasts as you note, Adam, not small cuts, though you can age a rib roast, say, then trim it and cut it into individual steaks for grilling.

I've aged large top and bottom round roasts for 14 days--in a commercial environment, not my fridge--with decidedly beneficial results. I've not aged rounds at home nor have I aged chuck roasts. There is no reason that cheap cuts would not benefit from aging though it's true that the benefit might be less (or not at all) discernable if one is braising--as far as flavor goes anyway.

Related sidebar: What we think of as aging is the result of the activity of enzymes in the muscle. Wet-aged meats can develop some of the tenderness and flavor of dry-aged meats (which is why the cryo'd brisket that's benn in your fridge for weeks often cooks and tastes better than one bought and immediately cooked) but not the flavor concentration (since there is no evaporation). The enzymes' (there are two types) activity is dependent on temperature. The activity happens slowly at low fridge temps but low fridge temps are important to minimize bacterial development and high humidity to slow the rate of evaporation. However, enzymatic activity increases dramatically as temps increase. One type of enzyme begins to lose activity at around 105, the other at around 120. Up to these points enzymatic activity speeds up and is the reason why a large roast cooked slowly will usually be more tender than the same roast cooked more quickly. So 'aging' happens with slow cooking as well.
 
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by K Kruger:
... Wet-aged meats can develop some of the tenderness and flavor of dry-aged meats (which is why the cryo'd brisket that's benn in your fridge for weeks often cooks and tastes better than one bought and immediately cooked) but not the flavor concentration (since there is no evaporation). The enzymes' (there are two types) activity is dependent on temperature. The activity happens slowly at low fridge temps but low fridge temps are important to minimize bacterial development and high humidity to slow the rate of evaporation. However, enzymatic activity increases dramatically as temps increase. One type of enzyme begins to lose activity at around 105, the other at around 120. Up to these points enzymatic activity speeds up and is the reason why a large roast cooked slowly will usually be more tender than the same roast cooked more quickly. So 'aging' happens with slow cooking as well. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
Three questions then, first, is a frost free fridge <39ºF optimal for aging because of it's dehumidifying nature?

Second, is there a minimal temp for safe slow cooking (like 140ºF for example), if not what is it a function of?

Lastly, what are the qualifications of a cut of meat to be suitable for aging?
 
Actually, the dehumidifying nature of many fridges is a problem (and one I'm glad you raised because I should have mentioned it) and is one of the reasons (among others) some people say meat shouldn't be aged at home. One wants a higher humidity to slow evaporatioin, though evaporation is desireable. I am able to suitably raise humidity in my fridge. AB's perfed box approach may also raise humidity around the meat. I'd like to test this. If humidity is insufficient (testing is a good idea) err on the side of caution and age for a shorter time at first, like 3 days.

For the large cuts where this is most beneficial and noticeable 200 is sufficiently low. Often a sear is performed first (supplying an assured bacterial kill step and adding flavor). The enzymatc activity is a function of rising temps--but temps that rise slow enough because of the bulk of the meat to speed this activity and allow it to take place for several hours before temps reach the point where the enzymes are denatured. This is best performed on meats not being taken to high internals, like roast beeves--steamship rounds, large shoulder cuts, inside top rounds, and so forth. A too-low cooking temp for cuts taken to high internals can result in excessive drying as we see with Selects and most Choice briskets if cooked too low. (Primes, especially top-end prime cuts, can take--and often require--lower temps.) That said, there should be some tenderness benefit in starting a smaller or thinner quality roast at a low temp till the internal hits 120 then significantly bumping the cook temp to finish.

Size--bulk. Imo, nothing thinner than a large beef tenderloin. I also think it should be top-end Choice, at minimum, like CAB or its equivalent, preferably, or no more than a notch below that. Thinner items are best wet-aged--which brings me to--

Note to Keri: Because dry-aging is partly an evaporative process, because brisket is relatively thin, and because brisket is cooked to a high internal it is perhaps best wet-aged. However, if you choose to experiment select a not-less-than top-end Choice and try a 2- or 3-day process. If that seems to work for you try adding a day and see if that works better. If it is to work it will take finding the balancing point and that will depend on the cut and the aging conditions.
 
Kevin, I just caught your mention of not trimming the meat before aging. I was hoping to get the trimming of the fat and silverskin from my tenderloin out of the way to save time when I smoke it.

What are the issues here if the meat is trimmed before aging?

Thanks,
Rita
 
You're going to have to trim it when the aging is complete anyway to remove dry spots and what fat is there at the outset offers some measure of protection against too-rapid drying. Because tenderloin is lean to begin with--especially surface-lean as compared to, say, a rib roast, a shorter aging time is warranted. While I might go a week and a half on a whole rib roast that's too much for tenderloins--the trimming becomes excessive.

On that front, Adam, I checked with a contact on eye-of-round as it is not a roast I buy. He swears by fridge-aging and suggests 3-5 days depending on size and surface trim.
 
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by K Kruger:
On that front, Adam, I checked with a contact on eye-of-round as it is not a roast I buy. </div></BLOCKQUOTE> I don't blame you. It's a crappy piece of meat, really. Lean, but not tender or flavorful. But... cheap...

separately, help me understand this a bit better... so is it good or bad to have humidity in the fridge. It sounded, initially, like humidity would be bad, since it would prolong the evaporation (maybe that is good though). But then it sounded like it is good, because you talk about creating a more humid environment. And even if it is a dehumidifying fridge - why would people recommend against it? Does that make it more prone to spoilage? And what is the problem with it being too dry? dries too quickly?

Also, how do you know your fridge is sufficiently humid?

On another note, I too have a separate fridge in the basement that us usually free for fun projects like this. I wonder if I could set up a hanging aging process, which would allow the meat to hang and the blood to drip in a pan below. Not sure if that would help anything, but it could look cool in the fridge...
 
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by adam clyde:
separately, help me understand this a bit better... so is it good or bad to have humidity in the fridge. It sounded, initially, like humidity would be bad, since it would prolong the evaporation (maybe that is good though). But then it sounded like it is good, because you talk about creating a more humid environment. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Most dry aging takes place in a pretty humid envrionment (in some cases %80-%90). This is because it allows the enzymes more time to work at breaking down the meat as the moisture slowly evaporates.
 
That's very helpful Kevin. Thank you. I'll wait a few days to begin the aging and won't trim first. I've recently acquired a second fridge - YAY!

Rita
 
Bryan is right, Adam--you're looking for slow evaporation and for whole beef sides or large sub-primals slow evaporation allows more time for enzymatic activity. At home a lower humidity can be okay because you're aging for a shorter time but too low and drying will be excessive. One of course trims off dried or discolored fat and lean before cooking but if drying is excessive too much will need removal.

I think some people recommend against fridge aging because of the chance of insufficiently low temps or erratic temps (the former because some fridges just don't get and maintain low temps well or because people are not trusted to correctly temp their fridges, the latter because of door opening, a definite concern as it increases the chance of spoilage) and because of the chance of too low humidity causing excessive dehydration.

My second fridge is in the utility room (the most humid room in our house) along with a couple high-end incubators. I use the wet bulb/dry bulb arangement (with a conversion chart) we use for measuring incubator humidity for measurement. Seasonal changes in ambient room conditions effect readings but I'm able to get it up there. Turning on the 'energy saver' feature in the fridge raises humidity as well--at least it does in mine.

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content"> but it could look cool in the fridge... </div></BLOCKQUOTE> Obviously, a major bonus.
icon_biggrin.gif
 
So, how many days should I age?

Any tips? Just remove it from the package and let it sit around? Then do all of the trimming?

Is a week too long for aging a whole beef tenderloin?
 
After 3 days, I find the flavors start concentrating and there's a noticeable difference in flavor. This intensifies with each day.

High-end steakhouses and markets can dry age for 21-28 days. I don't trust my set-up (the perferated container in the fridge) for that long. The longest I've gone is 10 days.

So, age it a minimum of three days...
 
I don't see why you couldn't use just a towel. Be sure to change it at least two or three times a day.

The container helps keep stuff off your meat, as well as keeps the meat smell out of the fridge.

Also, be sure you put the meat on a rack so that air can circulate under the meat. If you don't, you could end up with slime...
 

 

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