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As it won't do any harm to any servo i would just install it. You can think of the cap as a buffer it makes sure that the servo always gets the voltage needed, and as it's a very cheap item i'd just install it.

Not really. The cap must be rated for a voltage above what we need. The servo operates at 5V max, so any 16V+ cap is fine. I used 100u 25V as it was the first i found in my parts box.

Thanks Dave. Would you mind sharing your PIDs and Servo settings? How do you set your TOP valve? My question was a bit more specific: Is it WORTH it? I'm afraid that i used to small tubes. I used 15mm tubes which may introduce too much anti pressure, and there is next to no natural air flow when...

Could you tell me how to see the information? No matter what i set LOGGING to (from debug, info ....) I don't see ANYTHING like the log you posted.

If you found your best values you may post them here please? One thing that is ALWAYS missing imho is the position of the TOP valve (the one in the lid). It makes a big difference if you operate your smoker with a fully opened or almost closed valve. I just bought some new glas fiber gaskets as...

I got a WSM 18 with a self built "air burner" like ralph did. see pictures attached. Will the rotor damper help me? I would built one just out of curiosity, but imho the fire already goes out when i stop the fan. It's even worse. I think i can't push enough air into it to really heat all the...

made the measurements today. interesting to see, that some probes SEEMS to be identical, but vary by several degrees. i put them in a pot together with a k-type thermocouple and then entered measured resistance value into the calculator. updated the heatermeter config, and all set now. thanks!

thanks a lot steve. wish i had a probe to trust :) i have several of them, from my maverick, and another kitchen termometer and other stuff, but they all show different temps :(

how would i determine the correct values to enter for unknown temp probes? i bought some on aliexpress, but didn't notice they were of unknown type. still i would like to use them, as i don't want to dump them. what do i need to do? didn't find any information in the wiki .... thanks!

much appreciated! thank you! hannes

it's an old thread i know, but still i'm trying to adjust the main page to my likings. and i personally don't like the text shadows. the one of the BIG MAIN temperature, and the ones below. i already managed to set the font to ARIAL instead of times new roman and remove the background graphics...

is this app still maintained? what about the mentioned v2 being almost finished a year ago? i really miss notifications, and i don't really like pushbullet, which for now is the only way to do it. i'd really love to make this app work with newer HM software, as i also get this "unprocessed...

another reason it won't melt the plastic is, that you are cooling the copper all the time by pushing cold air into it :) and it's far enough away from the heat as well. i had problems with the solder melting when i heated the WSM to a "no standard" bbq temperature - so with open lid a blower at...

well, it's got a nice looking iphone app. i like that. i can live with the simple web frontend, but still smartfirebbq's app looks nice.

thanks for doing all the testing which confirms my findings. :( i guess my case is still under waranty. i'll ask for a new one *lol* i can live with the deformation, but it's not nice to look at and doesn't look very professional. i guess i will ask for a new case amber colored and ABS.

got a HM case 3d printed from a nice contact here. very happy with it. only one issue: it's black, and when lying in the sun it deforms a lot. i have no experience with different 3d printing material. so is there a good and a bad stuff to use? the box gets really soft. and it seems that even the...

wsm 18 as well. with 10 cfm fan. P: 15 I: 0.02 D: 5 perfect!! the air spreader copper tube is bent in this picture. it's all horizontal normally ;)

i now found that. 86c with free shipping and you can just cut the connector off and dispose the sensor :)...

and more pictures to post after the first "real" test. the meat was excellent. stopped at 92°C. as i thought only parts of the briquettes were burnt. about a 1/4 was still unlit. the coalring was filled to full height. it now is not anymore, because it took some briquettes from the unlit side to...

i made bigger holes. the one nearest to exit being the smallest ones (3mm) and then becoming bigger and bigger up to 5mm. the result looks quite good. this is w/o any bbq in it. it's a pure test run, with no smoking wood added. the temp decline at the end, and the 105° shown are due to the fire...