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I tried to PM but for some stupid reason can't get one to send without Chrome crashing on me today. PM me with your address & I'll drop one in an envelope & pop it in the mail for you.

If you're looking for the small snip-out secondary board that was part of the 4.1.x files, I probably have between 1 and 3 that I won't be using. I don't recall the 4.0 boards having a thermocouple board, but that could just be my flaky memory.

I found that I had very slight interference between the plastic of the plugs on the thermoworks probes and the 3d printed case on my first heatermeter build, easily remedied in my case by taking an exacto and carving away a bit of the edge of the plastic on the probe plug so that it could insert...

Read this thread: http://tvwbb.com/showthread.php?38530-Attaching-the-blower-to-the-WSM-My-idea This is essentially what I did w/ my smokey joe silver except that I used all stainless hardware and used a stainless dog bowl in place of the tin can.

I don't have any pictures, but I basically emulated the approach taken by the the pitmaster ique series and used a 1qt stainless steel dog bowl, a long stainless bolt a couple of stainless fender washers and a stainless nut - I removed the factory vent control from my smokey joe silver and ran...

I use my heatermeter 4.0 on my mini for virtually every cook now. Other than a couple of hiccups where I didn't get the pot re-seated on the kettle properly after refueling (which led to temperature runaway), it's been amazing. I can run lump instead of briquettes while still having rock-solid...

Wow! That's GORGEOUS. I love it.

Mouser still shows out of stock on the ATmega - they do show the "non-P" in stock, and digikey shows the "P" in stock - when I ordered my latest batch I had to substitute a different trimmer pot and a different red LED as well as go to the "non-P" ATmega - but after doing so I got my mouser...

I'm with you on that one Tim. So far I've managed to get 14 hours on a fill using lump and cooking around 225-250. I can't imagine a charcoal ring increasing that or giving any tangible benefit on my SJS-based mini, but perhaps it's different for those that used a Gold with the side vents?

We might be talking apples vs oranges, but I don't have an orange so I can't comment on whether there is a risk when used on a kamado or other ceramic cooker. I have no data points for temperature in that area on those, but... I AM one of "most people" with a metal smoker in this case - I use...

Sure, but that is only applicable if you've got the roto-damper CLOSE to the intake vent - I'm using a standoff distance of about 6" because with no ceramic insulation on my metal smoker (and pre-roto-damper), I melted the mouth of my blower. That galvanized fitting extends INSIDE the pit a...

I've always been leery of galvanized metal around any heat source, but perhaps I'm overly cautious... you don't actually have to reach the melt point of Zinc to have it be a problem - from wikipedia (yeah yeah, not the best source but it was a quick hit search) : Galvanized steel is suitable...

So... can you quantify how much real-world impact this has with standard thermistor probes? I guess what I'm really asking is "what is a small shift?" I am sitting on 3 sets of components and 3 4.1.2 boards (one for me, 2 for guys I work with) and was planning to start assembly of mine this...

Are you at all concerned by the use of galvanized steel that close to your cooker?

Yep - in fact with the 3d-printed case I got from Tom, the jacks are slightly recessed and the thermoworks probes didn't stay in at all until I trimmed down the plastic around the base of the probe plug (tapering it to clear the case), but even after doing that I find that I have to be very...

I agree, it does seem to make more sense having the temps on the right side, so I guess count my vote that way.

The version I'm testing of Ralph's design is printed in 2 pieces, the caps are integral to each half of the unit (the color differences that make it look like separate caps are purely aesthetic)

I also use a dog food bowl. My first mounting solution for the stock fan was to cut a rectangular hole in the side of the dog food bowl & secure it with a short length of spring between 2 eye bolts in the bowl. The bowl gets relatively warm under normal low-heat cooks, but when I did a test...

Fan and servo both using full range all the time, but min fan speed bumped to 30% since low fan speeds it seems struggle overcoming the increased static pressure of the small opening in the servo valve when it's also at low pct open. I think I need to tune the pid values a bit more, but that's a...

Yeah when I dropped the set point to 100 I was playing with pid values trying to get the oscillation during the initial swing to a new set point down a little. It seemed to be more prevalent at low temps, hence the low set point (and no food on). I pushed the lid pct to ten right after that...