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Hey Geert, nice customization of the home page you've done there! Also a really good explanation of your issue which made it easy to figure out what is going on. The reason the temperatures disappear is that the persistent database can't store negative numbers. When you're streaming the data...

Hey John, good to see you again! Are you connecting by name? Perhaps the name is somehow timing out in your DNS. Have you tried going to the http://heatermeter.com/devices/ page and connecting via the IP address there?

Black boxes are what are displayed if the display is never initialized. That means you've got a bad connection to the LCD generally, or something bad has happened to the LCD and it is now non-functional. You might try touching up the solder connections on the pinheader and verifying that none...

The underscore works for sure. If you're using an original Pi A, then you're using an external wifi adapter and the only wifi adapters I support only do 2.4GHz so that would be why it doesn't connect. The Pi Zero WH doesn't do 5GHz either, but should connect to the 2.4GHz network. Not sure why...

The resolv.conf on the HeaterMeter points to the local DNS server on the device (dnsmasq). That has its own resolve.conf file it uses to resolve names in /var/etc/resolv.conf.something. The DNS support on the device I am not sure what the heck happens (despite having a really strong background...

The boot process comments it out once it uses the value from the config.txt, to prevent it from overriding the wifi settings on every boot (which would prevent the webui from being able to change it). The quotes added are there to try to preserve any spaces in the password, but depending on how...

It does look like it might fit and the pins are in the right order and everything, but the only problem is that it is vertical and not horizontal as GSpinelli said. There is about 12-13mm of clearance from the HeaterMeter base board to the case and that's 15mm so it is likely you could just give...

Making progress! To figure out the blower situation, check the pins on the driver MOSFET (the big 3-pin thing on the top left of the board) https://heatermeter.com/devel/pcb/hm-4.3/HeaterMeter434BaseV.png Make sure the blower is at 100% and look for the appropriate voltages. Also check D2 and...

This is correct because I actually used those in kits for a short while as the others were out of stock for a while. These are the ones I have right now: https://www.newark.com/ael-crystals/c16m000000l003/resonator-ztt-16mhz/dp/58M4491?ost=c16m000000l003 If you find a replacement 5V regulator...

The problem is that PID controllers are meant to work with a system that has a more or less consistent response and smokers have a response that changes over time. There's a different amount of fuel burning all the time, the meat in it warms up and buffers the response a bit, something could...

* It needs the SD card in the slot on the board with all the USB ports for any network access (wifi or ethernet) * Do not reformat the SD card with Windows. Windows is complaining about things it doesn't know, but you should have a drive show up with it inserted either way. On that drive there...

Is the servo just getting jammed up from the damper dial being too hard for it to move? If the servo is getting really hot it sounds like it can't move the dial. You can test this by running the servo with the dial on it outside the damper and run it up and down a bunch in manual mode to see if...

That setting is "Min Fan Speed" and is available on all HeaterMeters in the webui.

It's just all on one side instead of being half and half like the reference image. This is ridiculously simple and you're over-thinking it. Do the procedure I outlined above: You don't have to know what pin number it is, or what color the wire is in the cable, or if it is A/B standard. When...

Yeah the "100K (ATmega side lead)" seems bad to me. The voltage should not be pulled down that much on measurement. If you did use S-29 then there may no way of fixing it short of some industrial cleaning procedure with the proper solvent and an ultrasonic bath.

What flux did you use? If the flux was conductive then that would cause what you're experiencing and if that was the case then it will be almost impossible to clean off. The only thing you can test really is to power it up and one side of the 100K resistor (the side connected to the jack)...

The simple way to figure it out is to leave the HeaterMeter not powered and use continuity on the multimeter. Plug in the cable into both sides, the HeaterMeter and the jack, then just probe the HeaterMeter's labeled RJ45 connection and find the slot in the jack that makes it go beep. E.g. put...

The defaults are P=4.0, I=0.02, D=5.0 with all the other settings being either 0% or 100% as appropriate.

Older versions of HeaterMeter that didn't support voltage mode can do more, but all 4.2 and 4.3 HeaterMeters have the same components, so designed for up to 1A.

There is a decent amount of resistance if you try to backdrive the servo (which you generally should not because the plastic gears aren't up for it) but with the leverage of the dial it should be doable. I'll send you a new servo in today's mail either way though to get things rolling.