Which Raspberry Pi of these two should I get?


 
T

Tom O.

TVWBB Member
Title says it all.

Here are the two I am looking at

Raspberry Pi 3. https://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B01C6FFNY4/tvwb-20

Raspberry Pi 3 B+ https://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B07BC6WH7V/tvwb-20

Both come with 2.5 amp power supplies.

This Pi will only be used for the Heatermeter and nothing else as I am not a Pi hobbyist. I do need wireless WiFi and the remote capabilities using the phone and computer apps.

Is the 3B+ worth the extra 25 bucks or is all I need available in the plain vanilla 3? I have no idea what I would gain with the B+ vs. the 3 as regards Heatermeter use only.

Thanks,

Tom
 
I'd recommend the 3B+ because the integrated wifi is nice, if you buy the 3B you'll also need to add a supported USB wifi module which adds to the cost. Don't buy any one with a power supply though, because those are USB power supplies, and the HeaterMeter needs a 12V power supply. Any power supply that comes with the Pi would be useless. It also doesn't need heatsinks, as these can interfere with the HeaterMeter circuit boards.

The Zero W or Zero WH are also good options, both with integrated wifi already, much cheaper, and consumes less power (not that that's much of a consideration unless you're planning to run on batteries). You can also get the HeaterMeter case to fit the Zero so it won't have the extra holes where the USB jacks would be.

Summation:
-- If ONLY wired Ethernet is needed: Raspberry Pi 3B
-- If wired Ethernet and wifi is needed: Raspberry Pi 3B+
-- If ONLY wifi is needed: Raspberry Pi Zero W or Zero WH
 
Wow, thanks guys. It just looked at the Zero W and it is only 10 bucks. As long as I can connect wirelessly with my home WiFi, that looks like the best dedicated option.

Tom

PS: The W WH has headers installed. Are these the same as needed to connect with the other boards involved?
 
Last edited:
Tom O. said:
PS: The W WH has headers installed. Are these the same as needed to connect with the other boards involved?
Click to expand...
Yup, you need either the WH or to add your own headers to the W to connect it to the HeaterMeter (or solder a ton of tiny wires between the two).
 
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