Weber Genesis Silver B 2000 rehab - Update: Restored


 
P

Pat Michigan

New member
I’m in the midst of my first rehab attempt on what I’m pretty sure is a genesis silver b, model year 2000 (Model #2250000, Serial # DD613712). I’ve been giving it a pretty good cleaning over the weekend and have it almost entirely broke to individual components. In the process, of stripping it down broke the bolt connecting the left side of cook box to frame. The nut is pretty much fused to the threads on the bolt but they came out. Any idea where I can order a replacement bolt/washer/nut that’s compatible? It’s like the only part in the assembly diagram that isn’t labeled.

Also is it possible to remove the plastic end caps on either end of the frame? I unscrewed the 2 bolts under the left side table and the arm on the end cap that nests into the back frame tube came out relatively easily, but I couldn’t get the front arm to budge. I even tried wedging a jack between the frame and the cap to pop it off. After a couple turns it seemed more likely that the plastic cap was going to snap than eject the end cap from the front frame tube so I gave up. Just figured it would be easier to paint the frame if I didn’t have to mask the caps. Any advice would be appreciated.
 

Attachments

  • E63FCD0A-2FB2-42E9-B2B9-7DB012987742.jpeg
    E63FCD0A-2FB2-42E9-B2B9-7DB012987742.jpeg
    247.5 KB · Views: 105
  • C537FAD6-8C0C-43D5-BDD5-19F9A0552BC9.jpeg
    C537FAD6-8C0C-43D5-BDD5-19F9A0552BC9.jpeg
    187.4 KB · Views: 106
  • 78AD23C2-D4DD-40AB-970E-AF8BC5189EBC.jpeg
    78AD23C2-D4DD-40AB-970E-AF8BC5189EBC.jpeg
    189.2 KB · Views: 98
There is a tab under the end of the frame. You may have to angle it and push it in. Then wedge it out slowly. Depending on the amount of rust there is, it may be easy.... or hard to pull out.
 
You should be able to use a 1/4-20 bolt 1/4 stainless washer. 1/4-20 nut . Look for stainless so it doesn’t happen again as far as length think 2 inch to 2 1/4 inch should work. As for where to get them amazon or bolt depot.
 
Pat, yest that is a 2000 Silver B.
Just go to the hardware store and buy a 1/4"-20 x 2" Stainless Steel bolt, washer and nut for the cookbox to frame bolt.

Those gray handle end caps are a bear some times. Spray some solvent into them and let them sit, then spray some more and let them sit, then do it again. If you have to, you can take the frame apart and run a rod down the frame tube from the other end and pound it out that way.
Look for a little slot under the frame near the handle that is stuck. There might be a notch you need to push up to let the handle pop out as well.
 
Appreciate the feedback! Thanks for pointing me in the right direction on the bolt, I figured it was probably something I could pick up at the hardware store, but I wasn’t sure if it required a specific alloy for heat resistance. Stainless steel should be easy enough to come by.

Looks like there are tabs on the right cap but none on the left cap. I managed to get the frame apart and tried ramming a broom handle through the frame but no movement yet. Any recommendations on a solvent that’s safe on the plastic?
 
Pat, I'm restoring a 2000 Silver B right now, as well. Removing the end caps and the firebox bolt was a pain. PB Blaster a few times for the Firebox and it got it done. May take some time to let it soak in.

For the end table pieces, one side ( I forget which) had two bolts, the other had a bolt and a tab in the frame. My grill has fold up tables on both sides. Once those bolts were removed, once came out easily, the other needed some leverage.

Are you taking apart the entire frame before painting? Or removing the end pieces and painting the frame in tact?
 
I hit it with some WD40 last night and again this morning. I’ll probably give separating the end caps from the frame another try tonight. With the exception of the top left portion of the frame, the rest of it is still intact. I originally figured I’d break the frame down and paint the parts separately but it seems pretty fused together so it may be easier to paint as an assembly.
Are the large wheels removable? I popped the caps off that cover the ends of the axle rod but they appear to be crimped at the end so I can’t slide the plastic wheels off.
 

Attachments

  • C06DF0FE-1751-4CCE-BC6C-9906FBBC9B40.jpeg
    C06DF0FE-1751-4CCE-BC6C-9906FBBC9B40.jpeg
    118 KB · Views: 47
The wheels are held on by push nuts. I just pry them off and hope they are not trashed afterward. You can get replacements at most small hardware stores like ACE and the like. I am sure the big box stores carry them too. They are inexpensive.
 
Pat, I am also restoring a 2001 Silver C, I have attempted to get the plastic end table pieces off yet, but I am not a big fan of them and was considering not putting them back on or if possible, painting them black to match the frame. Any thoughts from anyone on this?
Also, was it hard to get the folding table on the left off?
 
I’m still working on getting the end cap off but I was able to remove the side table by finagling it out when I removed the upper frame.

I don’t love the plastic hardware either, a little too vintage 00’s for me. I was going to clean them up with some plastic restorer and see how it looks and get the grill back up and running. In the long term, I’m considering rebuilding the side and folding table with cedar. I have buddy with a cnc machine so I might model new end caps and a handle in 3D and then have them milled on the cnc from cedar. Really just depends on how far I want to take this project.
 
That sounds interesting, I might be interested in that solution as well. How would you rebuild the folding table with cedar? Do you need to get a new table mechanism like one from the older 1000's and fit it on the Silver?
 
Wipe them down with pure bleach, then hit them with some #0000 steel wool or a green scrubby pad soaked in bleach. (wear gloves). THen after they dry, hit them with a good vinyl protectant like Aerospace 303. Some use other concoctions to restore the new look to the plastic as well, but I find the Aerospace 303 to work well and it has UV protectant properties as well.
 
I got the end caps off. The right one came off pretty easy, unfortunately the left one broke in the process. So I’ll probably have to come up with a mod to replace it.

I picked up some rustoleum ultra high heat black to paint the exterior of the fire box and the end caps for the lid (not the porcelain). I was considering painting the frame forest green in a gloss/semi gloss, but the only high heat forest green I can find comes in matte . Does anyone know of one?
 

Attachments

  • 1365D403-DAFC-4086-87A5-3EA816C13250.jpeg
    1365D403-DAFC-4086-87A5-3EA816C13250.jpeg
    127.5 KB · Views: 61
That piece looks black in the photo. Did you have the black end handles? If they are the regular gray ones, I probably have a spare we could work a deal on.
 
Bruce said:
That piece looks black in the photo. Did you have the black end handles? If they are the regular gray ones, I probably have a spare we could work a deal on.
Click to expand...
I think it was just dark in the garage when I snapped that picture, if I had to guess they are probably a cool gray 5c or 6c on a Pantone color chart. I’m considering rebuilding the caps in cedar, but let me know what you had in mind for the cap.
 
Do you guys recommend sanding the frame/firebox/lid end caps before painting or just clean it up with simple green and 0000 steel wool?
 
If the existing paint is intact and not feeling at all then I would pay just paint over it. Make sure you clean it and prep it for paint before you paint though
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

 

Back
Top