Right, that’s exactly what I have. I just can’t seem to get into those corners with the 4 inch brush. Do I just really need to jam it in there?This is what you need to strip off the finish on the outside of the end caps.
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You won't need to do any sanding after you strip the outside of the end cap with this.
*RESTORED* Tackling my First Restore - Genesis 1000
- Thread starter AHymel
- Start date
That’s what I was hoping! Thanks!
How many coats should I plan to do? I’m considering leaving the other endcap as and see if I can see a difference at the end.
Alright! So tonight I want to tackle some frame rust. Its only surface rust, as pictured previously. Based on my reading on here, I should be hitting them with sandpaper (320-400 grit) than spraying with Rust Reformer. Tomorrow I will spray the whole frame with High Heat Ultra. Nearly all of the surface rust is far enough away from the firebox that I don't think heat will be a factor for the Rust Reformer, but can I use it on the area around the firebox bolt?
I see that some people only use the high-heat paint on the firebox and the frame that touches it. Should I just spray with the rest of the frame with non-high-heat of the same color? Saves a few bucks I suppose. Something like this would match the color and be half the price, but I dont really know how much of the frame should be sprayed with high heat. (https://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Ol...emi-Gloss-Black-Spray-Paint-7798830/205585925)
I see that some people only use the high-heat paint on the firebox and the frame that touches it. Should I just spray with the rest of the frame with non-high-heat of the same color? Saves a few bucks I suppose. Something like this would match the color and be half the price, but I dont really know how much of the frame should be sprayed with high heat. (https://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Ol...emi-Gloss-Black-Spray-Paint-7798830/205585925)
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Bruce
TVWBB 2-Star Olympian
Thanks, Bruce! I feel like I have a master helping me through this! Cheers!
Great call, Fred! Bruce also recommended some aluminum foil, and I ordered some JBWeld so Ill probably give that a whirl, but good to know there are other options! I'll keep this all on the back-burner!
Report back on how u prepped your frame and how the paint laid down for you. I have had the bazaar scenarios a few times where the paint just doesnt lay well on the frame. I have tried several diff methods of prep as well and even used 2 diff kinds of paints and tried primer as well. I will be painting my current resto's frame very soon....fingers crossed I am over the hump with less then perfect painting scenarios. I will be trying lighter coats among other things. Good luck with yours.
Bruce
TVWBB 2-Star Olympian
Jim, I am working on a Silver C right now and will be doing some painting over the next several days. I hope to do a little video taping of how I do it. I already cleaned up the parts with simple green and a green scrubby, but I will show grinding rust, prep with isopropyl alcohol and then painting itself.
That is if commitments and weather permit.
That is if commitments and weather permit.
Hey Bruce that would be great. Its really weird.....I am not a novice painter. The only thing I have been able to conclude was that I contaminated the metal that I was painting. Now the grill did not turn out bad at all.....I showed you guys pics...but if you were to look close at the paint on the frame it just didnt spread and lay evenly....it looked ok......but not like it is supposed to. The 3rd approach I wiped the frame with 99.9 percent iso and was careful to use a clean towel. The only paint that I have been able to get to lay correctly was primer. I love painting with primer 
It is as if I have been painting frames with grease residue on the frame......hard to believe it literally happened to me 3 times in a row. This evening I took a donor hood and removed its end caps. The plan was to use a few different methods on these end caps and see what works best. I will also try to solve how to paint with texture over the chipped areas. I did purchase a quart of the Satin High Heat and will see what it looks like rolled on. The only way to really learn is to experiment. I appreciate your efforts to help us all out.
It is as if I have been painting frames with grease residue on the frame......hard to believe it literally happened to me 3 times in a row. This evening I took a donor hood and removed its end caps. The plan was to use a few different methods on these end caps and see what works best. I will also try to solve how to paint with texture over the chipped areas. I did purchase a quart of the Satin High Heat and will see what it looks like rolled on. The only way to really learn is to experiment. I appreciate your efforts to help us all out.Goodluck, Jim! I’m sure the research will be worth it in the end.
JBWeld seems solid as anything. I sanded it down so it’s pretty smooth. Never going to be able to completely hide it, but I’m pleased with how it turned out. Time will tell. Does this drip pan get High Heat Ultra? I’m planning to paint it, and then cover the inside with aluminum foil for preservation.
JBWeld seems solid as anything. I sanded it down so it’s pretty smooth. Never going to be able to completely hide it, but I’m pleased with how it turned out. Time will tell. Does this drip pan get High Heat Ultra? I’m planning to paint it, and then cover the inside with aluminum foil for preservation.
Nice catch! Sadly I already painted it, and as another mentioned, it’s basically shot. The JBWeld will serve as a solid, temporary solution I hope. I painted it just for completion, and as expected, it looks bad! Keeping my eyes out for a donor grill hoping for the right pan.
With that said, finally have some visible progress!
So forgive my elementary question. When I think porcelain, I think the hood, which feels almost rust-proof because of the coating. Is this drip pan rust common? Thanks for all your help on this thread and my research!
Jon Tofte
TVWBB 1-Star Olympian
Getting pretty hard to find these in really nice condition and new ones apparently are no longer available. It seems the few new or almost new OEM ones are being listed at extortionary prices. I think your fix looks fine. This isn't something that is front and center like your hood and endcaps. I would actually think your JB Weld fix might last a reasonable amount of time. I hope so, because I figure it is what we all will be having to do as it gets ever harder to find trays that are any better than what you got.
Bruce
TVWBB 2-Star Olympian
They seem to be a lower quality porcelain than the lids. Maybe just thinner, but it is porcelain and you can clean it the same way as the lid with #0000 stainless steel and a regular cleaner or grill cleaner.
Yes, the commonly rust. Probably partly because the manufacturing specs are lower on them than the lids and also the fact that the acidic grease sits on them continuously. People don't clean them nearly as often as they should.