Stoker Integration


 
P

Peter_M

TVWBB Member
I've recently integrated my stoker system into my home. The Stoker is located in the kitchen and runs the BBQ on the patio.

Here's a couple pics, with the rest located here:
http://s1123.photobucket.com/a...toker%20Integration/

IndoorStoker.jpg

CordReels.jpg

SensorPlugs.jpg
 
I have one suggestion, after reading your posts from the other thread. Phone jacks are not the greatest connections. If I were doing a system like yours, with multiple connections in the cable run, I'd think about using cannon plugs or another type of connection that is more secure and has less impedance for all the connections except the jack into the stoker and the jacks at the fan and temp probes.
 
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Mitch T:
...think about using cannon plugs or another type of connection that is more secure and has less impedance for all the connections except the jack into the stoker and the jacks at the fan and temp probes. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
That's a good idea. I considered this a little beforehand. I did like the idea of keeping the connectors all the same, and as the stoker system uses. If I have further issues, this is something I'll consider. Other than the one stretch yesterday, this has worked well for a month (2 weeks with the cable reel) 3 - 4 cooks a week.

I do like the 1/4 Phone Jacks also because they are the only 1/4 Phone Jacks in my house (not including a decommissioned audio DSP) and are available in a keystone jack.

These particular keystone phone jacks do not hold the plugs as secure as the switchcraft jacks that I used in the mult-boxes. I may see if there is a switchcraft (or nuetrik or maybe canare) product that will fit the keystone panels. I prefer to stick with a keystone insert as my house is wired with a bunch of keystone panels throughout.

The thread that Mitch is referring to is this one where cable length vs awg has come up and should be considered when planning extension of stoker cables.
http://tvwbb.com/eve/forums/a/...103/m/4851098406/p/2
 
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Amir:
Nicely done indeed! Never thought about integrating stoker into home wiring! </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Thanks. After getting the Stoker, I immediately saw that I was going to need a solution to free up my table top. Then, I didn't get too far into rainy season and saw it would be nice to get the brain out of the elements.

When I remodel my kitchen, I'll move it to a desk that is in the kitchen. I'll also add a port @ the oven for monitoring food and temps in the oven. (The Stoker is much better at maintaining temp than the thermostat on the oven, which swings 30F+.)

I'll probably also add some ports in an adjacent laundry and a downstairs mechanical/server room. With Stokerlog, I don't really need to interface with the Stoker, having it out of the way might be nicer than on the island near food prep, cooking, and eating area. In the server room, it can be on UPS and keep working during a power outage.
 
Hi,if possible could you tell me what I need to do the same set up.I am currently building a grill island and want to build this into it. I have a approximatly 40 ft to my kitchen where the stoker will be. Is that to far? Would greatly appriciate any help you can give me.
 
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Steve Rosenbohm:
Hi,if possible could you tell me what I need to do the same set up.I am currently building a grill island and want to build this into it. I have a approximatly 40 ft to my kitchen where the stoker will be. Is that to far? Would greatly appriciate any help you can give me. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Very simply, you need:
1 some cable to extend the connections
2 connectors or some way to disconnect the extension.
3 A mult box for plugging in multiple devices on the cooker side

These can take all sorts of forms. See Scooter's thread for some other ideas at accomplishing the same thing.

Feel free to ask more detailed questions.
 
What kind of cable do I use. It almost looks like some people have cut the ends off an extension cord and added thier own ends. Yours looks like a patch cord from a head set used on comercial aircraft. I am guessing that the (patch or extenion cord) is used for the blower?If I can just get the right cables used for the blower and the temp probes now. Then I can run my cable and put my ends on later. I dont own a stoker yet. I am going to buy one after my island is complete. Thanks Steve
 
I think the extension cord is a fine way to go.

My reel on the house is a $30 30' 16/3 extension cord.

My patch cords and wiring in the house is 16/3 power tool cable (available in bulk at your local hardware store).

There is a discussion in Scooter's thread (and I think elsewhere) about AWG vs length. Low voltage DC does not like to travel far.

Based on my experience, I think that 40' will work fine with a 16/3, at least with the smaller blower.

If I were to do it again, I'd consider 14/3, although I don't know if it would make a large difference.

I run one cable to a multbox, similar to Jim's in the 3rd post here: http://tvwbb.com/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/9270072103/m/4851098406/p/1

I soldered the connectors myself. They are stereo 1/4" TRS, as used by headphones (pre-walkman/ipod) and musical gear. I did need to mod the backshell to accept the larger cable.
 
Is your temp probes and blower all running through the same cord then? wouldnt think that work very well. When you say 16/3 I get that the 16 is guage of wire what is the 3? Thanks Steve
 
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Steve Rosenbohm:
Is your temp probes and blower all running through the same cord then? wouldnt think that work very well. When you say 16/3 I get that the 16 is guage of wire what is the 3? Thanks Steve </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Correct, 16/3 is 16 guage and 3 conductor.

You can run all of your probes and fans on one cable. Somewhere, someone recommended one for fan and another for probes. I run on one cable.
 
Pete, what do you think about running everything off of 12 guage low voltage accent lighting wire? Also where did you find your trs connector/receptacles at. I checked radio shack and menards with not much luck. Thanks Steve
 
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Steve Rosenbohm:
Pete, what do you think about running everything off of 12 guage low voltage accent lighting wire? Also where did you find your trs connector/receptacles at. I checked radio shack and menards with not much luck. Thanks Steve </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

12 Gauge is a good idea maybe for some length. My set up failed me tonight. Low voltage landscape wireis a good idea, but won't work unless it is 3 conductor.

For connectors, I prefer Switchcraft or, like BMerrill, Neutrik. Canare are ok. I used switchcraft for all but the Keystone, which are some off brand connecter. I'm going to replace them with Neutrik.

You can make you own keystone inserts with keystone blanks or use these, which I did (with the cheap TRS Jacks):
http://www.infinitecables.com/pop/av_wp-in-trs.htm

Mult-Box Jack:
http://westlake-electronic.com...il&itemcode=SWI+S12B

Plugs:
http://westlake-electronic.com...ail&itemcode=SWI+297

90 Plug:
http://westlake-electronic.com...ail&itemcode=SWI+236

All of these required mods to the back shells to accomodate the 16/3 power cord cable I used. They are not designed for such a large cable.

Here's a Switchcraft cable mount Jack that could probably be installed in a blank Keystone insert:
http://westlake-electronic.com...il&itemcode=SWI+S830
 
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Peter_M:
I'll probably also add some ports in an adjacent laundry and a downstairs mechanical/server room. With Stokerlog, I don't really need to interface with the Stoker, having it out of the way might be nicer than on the island near food prep, cooking, and eating area. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

I finally set this up this weekend. The stoker is now permanently installed in my laundry closet, which is conveniently located between the door to the patio and the kitchen.

P1030328.jpg
 
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Peter_M:
For connectors, I prefer Switchcraft or, like BMerrill, Neutrik. Canare are ok. I used switchcraft for all but the Keystone, which are some off brand connecter. I'm going to replace them with Neutrik. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

I finally got around to replacing the cheap jacks that came with my keystone inserts. I ended up using the below switchcraft and am very happy with them. The fit is much more secure than the off brand jacks. They are, with the nut, a very tigh fit in a keystone insert.

I used these: Switchcraft Jacks
 
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