Starting to restore a Weber Genesis 2 redhead. NG to LP conversion.


 
G

Gary Opas

New member
Many years back, my brother and I decided to go big on either a father's day or birthday gift for my Dad and bought him a Weber Genesis 2 redhead from Home Depot. My Dad didn't do as much grilling as I do, but it got some good use, over the years, including the family BBQ's. Now, my parents have passed and their house is going to closing next week. I brought my Dad's grill back to my house.
I intend to use it as my primary grill, as my 2012 Spirit-310 has rotted in several areas, in and around the cabinet, though it still works well enough.

My Dad always kept the grill covered, so other than a little rust in the corner of the frame, it is in amazing shape. The red paint on the hood is not oxidized and the wood slats are in generally good shape, except for the right bottom rack, where the wood has rotted in some places. The 13 flavorizer bars were in amazing condition. The flat black paint of the firebox is heavily oxidized.
*Pics to follow.

Yesterday, I changed the ignitor parts, as the button no longer worked and the steel box inside of the firebox had partially disintegrated. That was easy. $13.99 at ACE Hardware.

As I confirmed that the valves used to be the 3-stop types and not the continually variable types (I had to open one to check, as they no longer caught in the notches), I'll need an entirely new manifold, rather than just replacing the orifices and regulator to suit LP operation.

Questions: (assume that I do not have a donor grill lined up)
*I was wondering what the best source of a new 56038 manifold is. The cheapest I have been able to find is around $111, including shipping.
I wish I could find a donor in good shape, but even the most decrepit grill of this generation I could find listed is at least $50. I don't mind new. I just want everything in good shape, since the manifold assembly is the heart of the grill. If anyone has a used one in excellent condition for cheap, please let me know.

*What kind of wood are those slats? If I'm going to replace the wood slats in the right or both bottom racks, what kind of wood should I use and what is the best source? I'm not averse to replacing all of the wood slats, including the side racks, so they match. Do I need to put anything on the new wood?

*As this is a NG grill, it has nowhere to hang a propane tank scale. I was thinking of getting one of those new scales. Is there a panel I need to obtain to attach to the right side of my grill? What is the best source for that?

*What is the best way to treat the rust in the corner of the frame, including rust treatment, paint and primer.

*What is the best paint to use on the firebox? Obviously, it needs to be high temp.

Thanks in advance!

Edit: I changed the title to reflect the correct model name.
IMG_0853.jpgIMG_0855.jpgIMG_0857.jpgIMG_0858.jpgIMG_0859.jpgIMG_0860.jpg
 
Last edited:
Glad you did your homework on the valves. Truly a good unmolested donor grill is your best and least expensive way to go. It will give you the scale/hanger, the correct manifold as well and maybe even a good regulator. If you fail on the scale/hanger part, I may have one left in my garage which you're welcome to if I do. Simply reimburse me for shipping.
Have you checked on simply keeping it NG and having a line put by the grill? Truly having them on NG is "da bomb" because you never have to store LP bottles, you never worry about running out in the middle of a cook, etc. It's truly the best way to go. Give that a little thought.
Also someone here on the forum may be able to take you up on a trade as well.
I think Weber used cedar for the wood. No real need to replace unless it's rotted. You can sand it and reseal it. I read someone on here having bought some Trex decking and making new slats from that with good results.
Have fun
 
Gary Opas said:
In the summer of 1993, my brother and I decided to go big on either a father's day or birthday gift for my Dad and bought him a 1993 Weber Genesis 1000 redhead from Home Depot. My Dad didn't do as much grilling as I do, but it got some good use, ever the years, including the family BBQ's. Now, my parents have passed and their house is going to closing next week. I brought my Dad's grill back to my house.
I intend to use it as my primary grill, as my 2012 Spirit-310 has rotted in several areas, in and around the cabinet, though it still works well enough.

My Dad always kept the grill covered, so other than a little rust in the corner of the frame, it is in amazing shape. The red paint on the hood is not oxidized and the wood slats are in generally good shape, except for the right bottom rack, where the wood has rotted in some places. The 13 flavorizer bars were in amazing condition. The flat black paint of the firebox is heavily oxidized.
*Pics to follow.

Yesterday, I changed the ignitor parts, as the button no longer worked and the steel box inside of the firebox had partially disintegrated. That was easy. $13.99 at ACE Hardware.

As I confirmed that the valves used to be the 3-stop types and not the continually variable types (I had to open one to check, as they no longer caught in the notches), I'll need an entirely new manifold, rather than just replacing the orifices and regulator to suit LP operation.

Questions: (assume that I do not have a donor grill lined up)
*I was wondering what the best source of a new 56038 manifold is. The cheapest I have been able to find is around $111, including shipping.
I wish I could find a donor in good shape, but even the most decrepit grill of this generation I could find listed is at least $50. I don't mind new. I just want everything in good shape, since the manifold assembly is the heart of the grill. If anyone has a used one in excellent condition for cheap, please let me know.
Click to expand...

Gary Opas said:
Yep, your best source is a donor grill. If it isn't a rush, just keep your eyes open and one will pop up. If you cannot find donor grill, PM me and I might be able to sell you a used LP manifold.
*What kind of wood are those slats? If I'm going to replace the wood slats in the right or both bottom racks, what kind of wood should I use and what is the best source? I'm not averse to replacing all of the wood slats, including the side racks, so they match. Do I need to put anything on the new wood?
Click to expand...
I am not sure what kind of wood was used originally on the Genesis grills. Cedar is a likely candidate as Larry mentioned. That is what I replaced mine with on my 1993 Genesis 1000. There are quite a few different woods you could use, but cedar is naturally rot resistant and well suited to grills. I used dog eared fencing panels for mine. They were the perfect thickness and just needed to be ripped into the correct width. Some people have had good success with 1x2 cedar boards from Home Depot and Lowes. Then others have used Poplar and even Oak. I used Teak Oil on mine but I think I would go with a better sealer if I did it again. If you do a little searching, you will find a bunch of different wood slat solutions with great pictures in this forum.
Gary Opas said:
*As this is a NG grill, it has nowhere to hang a propane tank scale. I was thinking of getting one of those new scales. Is there a panel I need to obtain to attach to the right side of my grill? What is the best source for that?
Click to expand...
There is a panel that you would need to add to the NG grill that will hold a tank holder/scale. Again, a donor grill is your best bet. But if you can't find one, I might have one of those I could sell you as well. Same story for the tank holder itself.
Gary Opas said:
*What is the best way to treat the rust in the corner of the frame, including rust treatment, paint and primer.
Click to expand...
I would remove the rust with a wire wheel on a drill or angle grinder. Then sand the area smooth, then prime it and paint. If it is an area adjacent to the fire box, you will want to use high heat paint and primer. Rustoleum makes both and that is what I used on all my rehab grills.
www.homedepot.com

Rust-Oleum Specialty Rust-Oleum Specialty 12 Ounce High Heat Ultra Semi-Gloss Black Spray Paint 241169 - The Home Depot

The Rust-Oleum Specialty High Heat Ultra spray paint is a premium fast-drying formula offers superior durability and color retention for indoor and outdoor high-hear applications. Rust-Oleum Specialty
www.homedepot.com
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003CT499O/?tag=tvwb-20
You can skip the primer if you use the Rustoleum High heat paint. It is designed to be used on bare metal.
Gary Opas said:


*What is the best paint to use on the firebox? Obviously, it needs to be high temp.
Click to expand...
I use Rustoleum High heat flat black for the cook box.
www.homedepot.com

Rust-Oleum Specialty 12 oz. High Heat Satin Bar-B-Que Black Spray Paint-7778830 - The Home Depot

Restore the appearance of your stove or other surfaces exposed to heat with Bar-B-Que Black Satin High Heat Spray Paint from Rust-Oleum Specialty.
www.homedepot.com
Gary Opas said:


Thanks in advance!
Click to expand...
 
LMichaels said:
Glad you did your homework on the valves. Truly a good unmolested donor grill is your best and least expensive way to go. It will give you the scale/hanger, the correct manifold as well and maybe even a good regulator. If you fail on the scale/hanger part, I may have one left in my garage which you're welcome to if I do. Simply reimburse me for shipping.
Have you checked on simply keeping it NG and having a line put by the grill? Truly having them on NG is "da bomb" because you never have to store LP bottles, you never worry about running out in the middle of a cook, etc. It's truly the best way to go. Give that a little thought.
Also someone here on the forum may be able to take you up on a trade as well.
I think Weber used cedar for the wood. No real need to replace unless it's rotted. You can sand it and reseal it. I read someone on here having bought some Trex decking and making new slats from that with good results.
Have fun
Click to expand...
I have gone back and forth on the question of whether to have a NG line installed outside of the house for the BBQ. On Long Island, it will cost about $1000 to have that done. A bit much; especially since I have 4 propane BBQ tanks.
Bruce said:
I am not sure what kind of wood was used originally on the Genesis grills. Cedar is a likely candidate as Larry mentioned. That is what I replaced mine with on my 1993 Genesis 1000. There are quite a few different woods you could use, but cedar is naturally rot resistant and well suited to grills. I used dog eared fencing panels for mine. They were the perfect thickness and just needed to be ripped into the correct width. Some people have had good success with 1x2 cedar boards from Home Depot and Lowes. Then others have used Poplar and even Oak. I used Teak Oil on mine but I think I would go with a better sealer if I did it again. If you do a little searching, you will find a bunch of different wood slat solutions with great pictures in this forum.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the info! I'm going to head over to Home Depot later and look into those 1x2 cedar boards.

I'm also thinking about changing the grates. I see that you can get new ones that are either cast iron (not enamel-coated) or stainless steel rods for in the $32 to $40 range. I'd love the coated cast iron but can't justify the expense, at this time.
 
Last edited:
I highly suggest the solid SS rod grates if you like low maintenance and last forever qualities.
 
Isn't that a Genesis 2? Only two wheels and wood on both sides?? I have one of those.

1607010294006.png
 
Last edited:
I figured as much LOL. Just busting your chops a little. It is a 2 though and a very nice one really
 
Genesis 2, eh? Is it exactly the same as a Genesis 1000, except for the casters? Reason I'm asking is because I'm wondering if the Genesis II had the same manifold and tank scale mounting panel as the 1000.
BTW... Yes. I did post the pics after LMichaels and Bruce gave their first replies.
Can anyone help me figure out whether this is a 1993 (or a different year) from the serial number?
Weber Ser No.jpg
 
Gary Opas said:
I'm also thinking about changing the grates. I see that you can get new ones that are either cast iron (not enamel-coated) or stainless steel rods for in the $32 to $40 range. I'd love the coated cast iron but can't justify the expense, at this time.
Click to expand...

Gary,
In my opinion, the coated cast iron is not a good choice at all. Looks great and works for while, but inevitably you will be brushing off peeling porcelain from your food. I love uncoated cast iron, but readily admit that it is a royal pain to keep seasoned. So, for practical use I am with Bruce in getting the best stainless rod grates you can afford. A good set, given reasonable care, will last almost indefinitely. Lots of options out there. Here is a thread I did last year. It is a little out of date, but it might give you some useful information:

Stainless Steel Grate Throwdown Challenge Results | The Virtual Weber Bulletin Board (tvwbb.com)
 
Bruce said:
There is a panel that you would need to add to the NG grill that will hold a tank holder/scale. Again, a donor grill is your best bet. But if you can't find one, I might have one of those I could sell you as well. Same story for the tank holder itself.
Click to expand...
Do you think that you have this panel?
LMichaels said:
If you fail on the scale/hanger part, I may have one left in my garage which you're welcome to if I do. Simply reimburse me for shipping.
Click to expand...
Do you have one in your garage?
1607083724177.png
Can anyone help me figure out the year of this grill from the serial number? I wasn't able to figure it out. I thought I had, assuming it was a 1000, but am having no luck with this being a Genesis 2. Thanks!
 
Last edited:
What is the condition of the NG manifold? I’m always looking for them to keep as spares for my grill. I have several LP manifolds and would be up for a swap.
 
There ya go Gary. I figured someone would come through for you. I would have swapped you mine but I already converted it and once you convert an LP manifold to NG you can't go back
 
I think I might also have a scale and panel that I could include for a nominal cost...mainly for the increased shipping charge. Send me a PM if you are interested and I'll send pictures. These will be from Genesis 1xxx series which use the same parts as Genesis 2 if I understand correctly.
 
Jon Tofte said:
Gary,
In my opinion, the coated cast iron is not a good choice at all. Looks great and works for while, but inevitably you will be brushing off peeling porcelain from your food. I love uncoated cast iron, but readily admit that it is a royal pain to keep seasoned. So, for practical use I am with Bruce in getting the best stainless rod grates you can afford. A good set, given reasonable care, will last almost indefinitely. Lots of options out there. Here is a thread I did last year. It is a little out of date, but it might give you some useful information:

Stainless Steel Grate Throwdown Challenge Results | The Virtual Weber Bulletin Board (tvwbb.com)
Click to expand...
I noticed that the 7 mm Hisencn grates, which were 13 bars/grate at the time of the last review on this site, now have 16 bars/grate. They also claim to have finished edges. I wish I could find a reasonable set of 8 or 9 mm bar grates for this grill, but can't seem to find any under $100. Does anyone have any leads on a cheaper source? If not, I might go with the Hisencn. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0823BGYRG/?tag=tvwb-20
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.

 

Back
Top