Silver C Restoration


 
M

Matt Sahagun

New member
Hi all. I found a Silver C which I am beginning to restore. Knowing me, this will be an on-and-off project, but I want to do it well and use the grill for some time. I appreciate the How-To guides from this forum, and want to create this thread to ask any questions once I have them.

My immediate questions:
  1. Based on the amount of rust I see, do I need to replace the cross member (as described here)?
  2. My igniter looks to be chewed up so I assume that I should replace it with a #900 like this
  3. How do I know if the burners need replacing?
Thank for your time and thoughts

Silver C
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Rusted cross member that I assume needs replacing.
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The other side of the cross-member
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The igniter does not look good.
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Great find. I'm sure the experts will be along shortly, but my .02

The front side of cross member doesn't look that bad. Is the metal solid? or is it crumbling?

I bought these igniters for my silver B. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014HET1HC/?tag=tvwb-20 They are less expensive than the weber ones you linked to and work just fine for me.

As far as the burners, I'd hook up a tank and light them and see what the flames look like without the flavorizer bars. They might be good for a while.
 
burner tubes probably just need clean. Bruce has a How To video on burner tube cleaning.
 
the steel frame doesnt look bad. I think with some wire brush attached to a drill is going to grind them all away, maybe more time would be required for the cross member. The rest just need a good cleaning
 
Matt Sahagun said:
Hi all. I found a Silver C which I am beginning to restore. Knowing me, this will be an on-and-off project, but I want to do it well and use the grill for some time. I appreciate the How-To guides from this forum, and want to create this thread to ask any questions once I have them.

My immediate questions:
  1. Based on the amount of rust I see, do I need to replace the cross member (as described here)?
Click to expand...
It looks like there is significant rust on the cross member. Pretty common. I would take a wire brush in a drill or angle grinder to it. If there are no rusted through areas, then just clean it up and repaint it. If you have rust through holes, then you should probably cut it out and replace it.
Matt Sahagun said:
  1. My igniter looks to be chewed up so I assume that I should replace it with a #900 like this
Click to expand...
Yep, the igniter probably will work, at least intermittently, but it is time to replace it. I agree with DanHoo above, get the less expensive ones for less than half the price.
Matt Sahagun said:
  1. How do I know if the burners need replacing?
Click to expand...
Your burners look to be in good shape. You should probably take them out and clean them up on the outside and make sure they are clear on the inside. If you notice deterioration around the holes or cracks or issues like that, then replace them. Again, a set of aftermarket ones for 1/3 the price of Weber ones will work just fine. The big think with the burners is the crossover tube. That usually rots out faster than the burners. If that is shot, you can buy a replacement, but it will cost you nearly as much for that single tube as an entire set.
Matt Sahagun said:
Thank for your time and thoughts
Click to expand...
 
Hi all. I've done a lot of work since the last post and have 1 question. I cleared out the rust in the cross-beam and repainted the entire frame, cleaned the firebox, painted the exterior of the firebox, cleaned the hood. I am currently working on painting the endcaps with Rustoleum High Heat. I tried just throwing the paint on, but the paint chipped similar to what was described on other threads. So, I used an angle grinder to clear off all of the paint from the end caps, and then added the Rustoleum. Unfortunately, you can see the marks left by the angle grinder.

Question
  • How do I clear up these scratches left by the angle grinder? I am planning on hand-sanding with 400 grit sandpaper and then applying another coat (similar to this thread), but wanted confirmation from others before attempting this. This is my first experience working with metal so I am a bit nervous.
Scratches from angle grinder visible on the end cap.
PXL_20210902_010832456.jpg

Thanks so much for your thoughts.
 
Are you sure you ground off ALL of the original paint. What kind of attachement did you use on the angle grinder. I have done dozens of them and never had gouges anywhere near that bad. In fact, it was pretty tough to gouge them to the point that they showed scratches after painting.

Did you use a regular wire cup brush or did you perhaps use one of those braided wire ones?

This is the type that works best:

www.harborfreight.com

4 in. Crimped Wire Cup Brush

Amazing deals on this 4In Crimped Wire Cup Brush at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.
www.harborfreight.com www.harborfreight.com

this is the one that is a NO NO:

www.harborfreight.com

3 in. Twisted Wire Cup Brush

Amazing deals on this 3In Twisted Wire Cup Brush at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.
www.harborfreight.com www.harborfreight.com
 
Matt, it will take a lot of sanding to get them smooth again. You might be better off looking for another grill to grab some from. Just about any Genesis grill from 1985 to the early 2000's will have end caps and handle that will fit your lid.
 
Hi. Thanks for all of the recommendations. I'll try out the flap disc.

I did manage to find an alternate hood, and here is my work. Everything looks great except for the side burner, which I am still working on. Thanks so much for the guidance. I would not have taken on this project without this forum.

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PXL_20210914_010113345.jpgPXL_20210914_010339495.jpg
 
Nice work. Your grill seems to be missing the two lower frame supports, or maybe you haven't reinstalled them?
 
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