New to this forum looking for a solution for my situation.


 

JeremyDMeyer

New member
I recently purchased an electric smoker. While the built in electronics work fine its simply to basic and no where geeky enough for me.

I currently use a diy Arduino and Rasberrypi controller to maintain temperature in a refrigerator I use as a fermentation chamber to ferment home brewed beer. I was thinking of attempting to modify the code to work with my electric smoker but the Heatermeter code looks like a better place to start.

I would like to build a headless unit and rather than have a fan on the output I would like to use a SSR to control voltage to the heating element. Does this sound like some thing that could work?
 

SteveCK

TVWBB Pro
You should be able to make a really efficient electric cooker using the HeaterMeter for the brain
 

JeremyDMeyer

New member
Wanting to make an order but I'm not sure exactly what I need. I don't see myself needing the LCD or buttons.

Can I just order the Mouser base parts and the Circuit Board set and just not wire up the LCD and button?

Do I need the Thermocouple board if I'm using the thermistors from my Maverick ET-732?
 

John Bostwick

TVWBB Wizard
You could do without the button board. And you can use your Mavericks instead of a thermocouple, but make sure you order another probe jack(4) and make sure you order another 10k(i want to say 5)resistor.

But you would really be leaving out a very useful part of the whole build(lcd). As it displays the Ip address when it connects and temps. And you have the open lid function. It would be just an inconvenience more then anything without a lcd.
 

Andrew F

TVWBB Super Fan
Also, and this is just my own thinking and may or may not be based in any truth, but I would go with the thermocouple for the pit probe as (in my opinion) they tend to be more accurate in an open environment, and they are a little more "geeky."
 

SteveCK

TVWBB Pro
Also, and this is just my own thinking and may or may not be based in any truth, but I would go with the thermocouple for the pit probe as (in my opinion) they tend to be more accurate in an open environment, and they are a little more "geeky."

And they are bullet proof
 

JeremyDMeyer

New member
you could try a simple 'yet - super geeky' mini build like mine:

I was just about to order a kit but I really don't want to spend that much and don't mind a little more hands on DIY approach.

I'm mainly looking for something to let me be able to control temps and set alarms from PitDroid or web interface.

I think I can utilize the mini ATmega328 and Max6675 thermocouple boards you used but being I would like to have a web interface and use the PitDroid android app to control it I still need something like a Rpi. Or is that what the Wemos D1 is doing? I'm not familiar with those at all. Maybe something like a Rpi Zero would be adequate?

I'm fairly new to all of this so any help I could get would be greatly appreciated.

Edit:Did some quick research on the Wemos D1. That little thing is amazing. I thought it was just wifi for the ATMega328 at first.
 
Last edited:

DavidNP

TVWBB Member
No need for the RPi...the wemos will handle what you need....it (the esp8266) is a great little chip!

I'm finalizing v2 of my espress project. It has full local web pages for graphing/local interface with no need for an internet connection if you don't want to use a cloud service.
 

JeremyDMeyer

New member
No need for the RPi...the wemos will handle what you need....it (the esp8266) is a great little chip!

I'm finalizing v2 of my espress project. It has full local web pages for graphing/local interface with no need for an internet connection if you don't want to use a cloud service.

Very cool! I'm going to make the order from Ali for the components. Hopefully, in a month or so I'll learn how to use them.

Looking forward to seeing your v2 project.
 

JeremyDMeyer

New member
Just made an order from AliExpress.

1-D1 mini - Mini NodeMcu 4M bytes Lua WIFI Internet of Things development board based ESP8266 by WeMos
1-New Pro Mini Atmega328 3.3V 8Mhz Replace ATmega128 For Arduino Compatible Nano ATMEGA328P-AU Module
4-MAX6675 K-type Thermocouple Temperature Sensor Temperature 0-800 Degrees Module
1-1pcs solid state relay SSR-25DA 25A 5-24VDC TO 24-380V AC SSR 25DA,6-20mA (Not expecting this to last long going to keep shopping for a more reliable unit)

Looking forward to seeing how this works. The SSR I bought says it will operate from 3-32vdc. Hopefully the Atmega328 has enough current to drive it.
 
Last edited:

DavidNP

TVWBB Member
list looks good....

I would add a small item (if you don't already have it).... a usb power connector board, something like this:

let me know when it all arrives....like that you're going to go with 4 thermocouples!!
 

JeremyDMeyer

New member
list looks good....

I would add a small item (if you don't already have it).... a usb power connector board, something like this:

let me know when it all arrives....like that you're going to go with 4 thermocouples!!

I've been thinking about how I'm going to power these devices and my heating element.

I was thinking about somehow mounting the SSR in the smoker (not inside the heated chamber of course) but there just isn't room.

That said, I'm going to be building a big enough box to house the SSR and heatsink.

I'll probably hook a standard 120vac plug to the heating element and a standard 120v outlet to the side of the box the the SSR will control.

Being I'm going to need 120vac going to the box. I might as well get a 5v switching power supply and use the 120v to feed the 5vdc power supply to power the esp and atmega.

So much for the small for facor idea. I think I'll still be able to fit everything into an outdoor rated junction box. I plan to use a weather tight cable gland on the power cable and get some panel mount mini type k female thermocouple connectar to mount to the side of the box as well.

It should be a fun project.

I just finished building a PID temperature controller box for my homebrew rig. I wanted to incorporate a rpi and Arduino into that build but decided a PID controller and manual switches was better suited.

Here's a link to that build if your interested:
http://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=597760
 
Last edited:

JeremyDMeyer

New member
Started looking at my smoker again and it looks like I found a perfect place to mount the SSR. There's a panel that comes off the back to access the heating element. I think I should be able to mount the SSR directly to the inside of that cover and have the heatsink sticking through the outside. Doing it this way allows me to use a much smaller box and I now only need 5vdc power connector and a 2 wire connection coming out to control the SSR. I know the SSR will leak some current so I'll probably want to add a switch to completely disconnect it from power when not in use.
 

 

Top