Custom Lid Painting - The Weber on top

Walt

TVWBB Fan
Merry Christmas y'all !!!

I want to paint my Q220 lid, red lid, but the Weber logo on top and the border of the logo, I want to paint black.

Has anyone done this? I plan on painting what I want black, tape it off, then paint the whole lid red.

Any tips? Will the red have a problem painting over the black overspray?
 

Timothy F. Lewis

TVWBB Hall of Fame
You might talk to some fancy car guys about a good way (or product) to mask it. Make sure which ever color you lay down first has cured well before applying any masking material. I’d consider a product referred to in the fine art field as “Frisket”.
It’s designed for delicate painting and might give the right amount of “tack” without peeling the base color. I’m sure one of the guys that does more of that than I do will have a better answer but, “That’s all I’ve got to offer”. Good luck!
 

Jon Tofte

TVWBB Platinum Member
Timothy,
That's funny, because I have been toying with the same idea for my CharQ, except in reverse. I am thinking about painting the bottom half red, the top black and then painting the Weber logo & kettle red.

My plan was to use and artist's brush and try my best to hand paint the logo after all the spray painting has been completed and cured. I have to say that I used Testor's model paints on my Skyline logo. It even has white paint and has seen plenty of action. No problems whatsoever that I have seen. Now a grill lid itself might be a different story, I agree. I haven't been satisfied with my attempts at spraying high heat paint into a plastic cup to then hand paint with. This may be the only way I can get it to work, though.

Certainly, if you can get more sophisticated tape-off tools that might a lot better...
 

Timothy F. Lewis

TVWBB Hall of Fame
Testors, I think is lacquer, it should deal with “some” heat well enough for the front but the top is going to get pretty hot.
I just got to thinking about the possibility of getting in touch with one of the vinyl signmaker outfits and see if they could cut you a stencil using something with relatively low tack? If they see the art, most likely they can cut it with spot on accuracy! Maybe a blueprint shop anymore. Most of those places can cut a sheet and then you just set the whole thing and pull out the letterforms/ icons. That would be pretty easy if I’m not being too positive about it.
If it’s right, then you could just spray both, do the body first, allow to fully cure (I’d give it a couple of weeks unless you heat set it) then place the stencil and spray the secondary color.

This takes me back to my art material days!

I love this kind of project!

Just looked at Amazon, they sell a product called “Vivid low tack stencil material” looks fairly inexpensive, I think that might be a good direction to try.
 
Last edited:

Bruce

TVWBB Olympian
I would love to see someone come up with a reasonable way to make this work....especially one that doesn't require any "artistic skills".
 

Timothy F. Lewis

TVWBB Hall of Fame
Bruce, you have artistic skills, don’t sell yourself short!
There has got to be someone in this group that has some graphic design skills. After the holidays I will try to reach out to some folks I knew in the old days and see what they have to say.
Can anyone get me a picture with the lid “art” measurements?
The other idea would be to use a really low nap roller and simply roll the “proud” surface, maybe?
I’m thinking a soft rubber roller almost?
 

Walt

TVWBB Fan
Thanks everyone for the posts today!

I have been looking how car detail artists tape off for their pinstriping and detailed work.

My plan:
1. spray paint with high heat just the top area black that I want black
1a. Heat it up to cure the black
2. take my time to tape off what I want to keep black (stencil and pro help on this step)
3. paint it all red
4. before paint cures, pull off tape
4a. Heat it up to cure
 

Dave in KC

TVWBB All-Star
Walt, I have considered this, but have never followed through.
I look forward to seeing the finished product. I would also be
interested in the total time you invest in this project. I have
always assumed it would take more time than I would be willing
to allow for a flip, but I may be willing to spare on a keeper.
 

Timothy F. Lewis

TVWBB Hall of Fame
That sounds pretty good Walt, the tedious part will be cutting the stencil. Take your time and, cut Just through the masking material with a super sharp X-Acto knife and you should be good to go.
Good luck!
 

Walt

TVWBB Fan
Walt, I have considered this, but have never followed through.
I look forward to seeing the finished product. I would also be
interested in the total time you invest in this project. I have
always assumed it would take more time than I would be willing
to allow for a flip, but I may be willing to spare on a keeper.
Hi Dave, this won't happen till Feb/Mar, but I will post when I get'er done.
This is my personal Q220 and I will be taking my time (Thanks for the X-acto knife tip Timothy F. Lewis!)
If you're flipping these Q's, time spent will burn into your profit. My Q220 has the original oatmeal color and it needs a makeover.
 

Timothy F. Lewis

TVWBB Hall of Fame
When you get to the cutting of the masking material have a dozen blades handy, blades are cheap, labor is expensive! I recommend the #1 handle and #11 blades. They are finer than utility knife blades and will make the “close work” cleaner.
You most certainly welcome! I am looking forward to springtime pictures, step by step!
Merry Christmas!
 

Top