Community 3D Printer / Assembly / Trading Resources


 
Bryan Mayland

Bryan Mayland

TVWBB Hall of Fame
One of the best parts about this project is the community that's grown around the HeaterMeter device here at TVWBB. Everyone wants to help each other build the best grill controller they can, solving problems, sharing ideas and inventing mechanisms. Some of the most difficult help to find though is help with acquiring some of the physical parts such as cases, dampers, or assembled units. Our gracious host, Chris Allingham and I have discussed it and thought it would be valuable to have a sticky list of folks available to burn their fingers on soldering irons or molten plastic extruders so you don't have to.

So if you're interested in providing 3D printed parts or building a HeaterMeter (either just the soldering, or a complete turnkey solution) for someone else, just post your contact information here and what geographic area you work in and I'll try to keep the first post updated with a list of resources. If you want to include a photo, you can have one per section, it must be 320x240 (imgur's medium thumbnail) but can link to a larger image or a gallery.

I've put some starting resources in the list here. If I've forgotten you, don't feel unimportant! Just post here and I'll put you in. If I have you in the list and you want your information updated, just post here or PM me and I'll fix you up!

3D Case Printing Services - Got to have a case to protect your HeaterMeter from getting pulled pork all over it!
  • Tom Kole - PM? - United States - Designer of the official case and Offset Rotary Damper
  • Ralph Trimble - rotodamper@hotmail.com - United States
  • Peter F - heatermeter@ziggo.nl - Netherlands
  • Guy Barton - gbartonn@gmail.com - United States
  • Fabian D - (send PM) - Germany - I can help you with HM assembly (normal and SMD version) and 3D printed parts. You can get everything you'll need from me! I print everything with ABS. HM cases, servo dampers, blower mounts, other parts... I'm mechanical engineer and have a lot of experience with soldering and 3D printers. Shipping to Germany, Austria, Switzerland, France and rest of Europe.
  • SteveCK - MicroDamper@gmail.com - Creator of the "MicroDamper" and "MacroDamper"
  • Andrea Guarnaccia - andrea.guarnaccia@gmail.com - Italy, ships to all of Europe.
  • The official HeaterMeter Store

3D Printed Servo Dampers and Blower Mounts - The best control is achieved with some of these amazing servo-controlled dampers!

HeaterMeter Assembly - Can't solder? These folks got you covered!
  • John Bostwick - theboz1419@gmail.com - United States
  • SteveCK - MicroDamper@gmail.com - United States. From time to time may also have a fully assembled HeaterMeter available through my MicroDamper website.
  • Peter F - heatermeter@ziggo.nl - Netherlands - Has built more HeaterMeters than even I have, ever.
  • J Halasz - halaszj@gmail.com - Germany - Will also ship to US.
  • Fabian D - (send PM) - Germany
  • Andrea Guarnaccia - andrea.guarnaccia@gmail.com - Italy, ships to all of Europe.
  • Jas E - I am located in Vancouver, Canada. I can provide soldering services and 3D printing of cases for anyone that requires it. You can contact me at jascha.espley+heatermeter@gmail.com I also have a few extra SMD HeaterMeters tested and ready to go. These will mate with a RaspberryPi B+ (and eventually, if/when the software gets update, they will work with RaspberryPi 2) They are completed with Yellow/Green LCDs, 1 Thermocoupler jack, and 3 meat probe jacks. They have 10K resistors for Maverick ET-73 probes, but you can easily swap out the resistors if you are using other probes. You will need to supply the SD card and Raspberry Pi B+. $99 US plus shipping. I also have ET-73 high temperature probes, high temperature thermocouples, and power adapters available for sale.

    If you have special requirements, like no LCD or buttons, or 4 meat probe jacks, I can accommodate.

    mIqweZN.jpg

Hardware Mods

Selling / Trading Used HeaterMeters - Upgrade to the latest model and save your old one from just collecting dust!
  • Jas E - jascha.espley+heatermeter@gmail.com Vancouver, Canada - I also have a few extra SMD HeaterMeters tested and ready to go. These will mate with an rPi B or rPi B+ (and eventually, if/when the software gets update, they will work with rPi 2) They are completed with Yellow/Green LCDs, 1 Thermocoupler jack, and 3 meat probe jacks. They have 47K resistors for Maverick ET-732 probes, but you can easily swap out the resistors if you are using other probes. You will need to supply the SD card, rPi, Power Adapter, and probes. $99 US plus shipping.
  • J Halasz - halaszj@gmail.com - Germany - I have 2 "complete" builds to part with, they are in a case, no lcd, no button, no tc, with rotodamper and fan. I am in Germany, but I can ship anywhere in EU to US. Let me know if you are interested by PM please.
  • Fabian D - (PM) I have a complete Heatermeter 4.2 for sale. Including 3D printed case (color: black), high temperature food probe, high temperature thermocouple pit probe, WLAN USB stick and power supply (12V, 2A).
 
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I do Custom applications and complete heatermeter systems. I am also the designer of the Thermocouple adapter board(V.6.1) that will work with Ralphs Rotodamper and in stand alone applications.

I have been a heatermeter junkie since it was known as the Linkmeter and since then I have been spreading the word about the heatermeter and the benefits and the great work Bryan has done. I have delivered Heatermeters all over the world and all over the US.

If you need a custom application, I can try to make it work. At the moment, I am working on a USB3(type A) heatermeter that replaces the Cat5 cable with a USB cable, so that the Thermocouple and the 3 meat probes can be connected to a USB cable and a custom built smoker instead of having multiple wires and cables, it will just have a power supply and USB cable connected to the Heatermeter. I also made a Raspberry Pi B+ SMD version of the Heatermeter just to see if I could.

John Bostwick
theboz1419@gmail.com
 
Is there anyone preferably in Canada that is doing SMD soldering? IE.....the aux. thermal couple board? first board I tried is crap, am getting parts for the other 2 boards.
 
Dave Smith said:
Is there anyone preferably in Canada that is doing SMD soldering? IE.....the aux. thermal couple board? first board I tried is crap, am getting parts for the other 2 boards.
Click to expand...

What was the problem you had with the board. If its something I can improve on, I will make a change.

The boards are fairly easy to redo the soldering, as the smd parts are easy to remove and clean up with solder wick. Since they are small and the parts can be a pain to solder without a vice of some sorts as the parts are on both sides. Start with the resistors and the tc amp and then put the trimmer and then the 2 probe jacks and lastly the cat5 jack
 
no problem with board size, more my shaky hands and bad eyes lol, only thing not working on my board is the thermo jack, shows no pit probe when it's pluged in. I'll try again when my parts come in for the other boards, get them working and maybe give them away.
 
Did you....
Remove the 10K resistor on the HM board for the pit probe?
Lift one end of the 100K resistor for the pit probe (lift the end furthest from the ATMega), then run a jumper wire from pin7 of the CAT5 jack to the lifted end of the 100K resistor on the HM board?
Set the Pit Probe Type to Thermocouple, and 5mV/C?
Are you using a standard CAT5 cable? (not a crossover cable)

EDIT

ALSO.....
On the RDTC board.....
If you did not install the 3.3v regulator did you bridge the jumper for that?
If you did not install the REF Offset circuit did you bridge the jumper for that?
 
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on the resister I'm using my HM with thermal board, works if Thermal plugged into it, reg cat 5 cable; as for the RDTC board I installed all componets listed, didn't jump anything
 
Ahh, you need to have a switch andvjumper wires on the heatermeter board. The only way you can see the no pit probe on the display, is if you haven't wired the heatermeter. If you had a problem on the adapter board, then you would have seen a floating pin on the atmega and would have numbers or nothing.
 
Its kinda hard to see the board, but I can see some pads that dont have enough solder.

And on a side note, I will have some time in the coming weeks to update the adapter thread to include a how-to wiring for the adapter board. Ralph sent me nice picture of what is needed and will have something similar on the thread.
 
The jumpers on the HM board arent that hard to figure...

To wire the TC Pit Probe (from RDTC) here is what you need to do.

First of all, a TC does not need (or work with) the 10K pullup resistor, so remove it from the HM board. This is one of the two resistors that are standing on end behind the TC jack, it's the one that faces a different direction from all the rest. Remove it.

Second, the other resistor that is standing on end behind the TC jack (next to the cap) is the 100K resistor. You need to lift the leg of that resistor that is furthest away from the ATMega out of the board.

Now, At the CAT5 jack the pin on the lower left corner (looking at the solder side of the HM board) is from the RDTC Pit Probe. Solder a wire to this pin and run it over to the lefted end of the 100K resistor from the previous step.

The pin to the right of pin 7 is pin 8, that is the ground for the TC and probes. Solder a wire to this pin and connect it to a solid ground. The power jack above makes a good ground.

With that your TC Pit Probe from the RDTC should work.

The top two pins (1 & 2) on the CAT5 jack are for the food probes. Run a jumper wire from those pins to food probe 1 and 2. Connect the wire at the food probe jack to the leg of the jack that is in the CENTER, the one that is offset a bit from the rest. This is the switched leg of the jack. If nothing is plugged into the jack on the HM the probe from the CAT5 cable will function, if you plug a probe directly into the HM jack that probe will function instead of the probe from the CAT5 cable.

I recommend using this solid core wire for the jumpers on the HM board, otherwise it might be hard to solder to the CAT5 pins without freyed wires and shorts etc. I use the solid core wire from inside a CAT5 cable, something like the thin solid telephone wire that runs around your house is what you want.
 
For Sale: I have a Heatmeter TC and a Roto Damper I'm not using. Roto damper is wired for pit and 2 food jacks - $30.00; the heatmeter you will need the probes, and power supply - $75.00. Also on the RD the mount is made for 3/4" copper pipe, if you need a different one contact Ralph, he made the RD. Thanks
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Dave Smith said:
For Sale: I have a Heatmeter TC and a Roto Damper I'm not using. Roto damper is wired for pit and 2 food jacks - $30.00; the heatmeter you will need the probes, and power supply - $75.00. Also on the RD the mount is made for 3/4" copper pipe, if you need a different one contact Ralph, he made the RD. Thanks
Click to expand...
Dang, that's tempting, and I don't even need another one.
 
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