Built 3 new 4.3 units this weekend


 

Tony L-Iowa

TVWBB Fan
Built 3 new version 4.3 units this weekend. Two were 3 probe/1 TC and the other was a 4 probe version. I like the new build design over the 4.2.4 and it was a breeze to put together (all three work flawlessly).

I bought a Pi A+, Pi B+, and Pi Zero Wifi. A+/B+ are working great. I noticed Bryan is (or was) still working on the Pi Zero Wifi software so I'm curious to try that out soon. I'm in the middle of printing the case for the Pi B+ model version now. Curious to see how the finished products turn out as compared to my prior 4.2.4 versions.
 

John Bostwick

TVWBB Wizard
The case for the new version can be a bit tricky to print. It tends to warp, atleast with ABS. I use PEI and get perfectly flat cases, every time.
 

Tony L-Iowa

TVWBB Fan
I had no issues printing the case. I use a flashforge creator pro and I put borosilicate glass on my table. I clean the glass before print, put a layer of Elmer's disappearing purple glue in the print area down and never have adhesion issues. When the glass cools after the print the part is literally just grab and go. And the print surface to the bed is slick and smooth. Here's some pictures:

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RalphTrimble

TVWBB Diamond Member
Your adhesion looks real good, I'll have to give the Elmer's purple a try... I've been a Kapton tape guy for a while now, dialed that in so I get it down smoothly and it lasts a long time. I've found Kapton to be the lowest maintenance method to get good adhesion, but some really tough prints still curl. I used to use hair spray, and revert back to that for the difficult prints. I find I get perfect adhesion with hair spray on boro glass, but it does leave a bit of a sheen on the surface that I don't care for... which is only important, of coarse, when it is something that will be looked at like a HM case. Hard to tell in photos how the Elmer's effects the surface, do you have a with/without comparison?
 

Tony L-Iowa

TVWBB Fan
Sorry, I don't have a with/without comparison. I've always used the Elmer's purple glue when I went to glass. When I printed on the pad that came with the printer I didn't need anything to make things stick.
 

RalphTrimble

TVWBB Diamond Member
I guess I'll just have to give it a try, looks pretty good in the pics. How hard is it to clean the excess elmers from the glass?
 

Tony L-Iowa

TVWBB Fan
Here's a picture of my build plate and you can still see I haven't cleaned it from my case print. Once cool I just unclip the metal paper clips bring the glass up to my kitchen sink, rinse it under some water while rubbing lightly with a paper tower to remove the residue, and then I put it the glass onto a dish towel to dry and rub it dry. Takes all of about 1 minute. I have 2 boro glass plates also so I can finish one print and immediately pull it out to cool while starting to preheat the second plate and starting the next print. I only do this if I'm in a rush and/or around when things are still warm and ready to go.

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Tony L-Iowa

TVWBB Fan
FYI-

I just today started a new print for my HatchBox spool holders and forgot the glue on the plate. It didn't stick even making the borders of the first layer so I abandon the job and switched plates. Glued the next plate with the Elmers purple and it sticks like a champ. So, the glue makes a world of different to the boro glass.
 

RalphTrimble

TVWBB Diamond Member
Yah, I've never had good results on any bare glass, I've always used kapton tape or hairspray (which works pretty darn good).
Neither of the two stores I checked yesterday had the Elmer's purple in stock, one had an elmer's aerosol general purpose spray adhesive, which I bought just for the hell of it but need to test cleanup before I spray it on my boro glass. Is the elmer's purple you are using a stick, aerosol or pump sprayer? They seem to have them all...
 

Bryan Mayland

TVWBB Hall of Fame
Thanks, perhaps I overlooked that product. I'll bet the grocery store I'm heading to will that that...
That's where I got mine! I think it was 3 for a dollar there abouts. It definitely helps that first layer stick, but I had a problem applying it in a way that it wouldn't have brush strokes all over the final print. Tony, yours look pretty good, you have any application techniques for us? Or is there a way to clean the prints that removes the glue completely?
 

RalphTrimble

TVWBB Diamond Member
I've done a few prints with the "Elmer's Washable Disappearing Purple" glue stick and it is working out really well. The prints stick down really nice, and cleanup is very easy as well. I tried isopropyl alcohol which did not work, but to my surprise, when I sprayed window cleaner on it the glue turned back to purple and turned into an easily removable gel. A couple sprays with window cleaner and wipes with paper towels and its ready to go.
There were a lot of different Elmers glue stick products on the shelf, not all say "washable", so be careful what you grab.
 

KevinE

New member
That's where I got mine! I think it was 3 for a dollar there abouts. It definitely helps that first layer stick, but I had a problem applying it in a way that it wouldn't have brush strokes all over the final print. Tony, yours look pretty good, you have any application techniques for us? Or is there a way to clean the prints that removes the glue completely?

I'd be curious if Tony has any tips as to technique as well. I have the same problem. Sticks well but you can see the glue marks on the finished product.
 

WBegg

TVWBB Pro
I concur with the glue stick on glass, or use build-tak. Never had an issue with lifting of the 4.3 case.

My findings with ABS:

Bare Glass - Horrible
Bare Kapton - Horrible
Glue Stick on Glass - Great
BuildTak - Excellent

Also, I ordered a new product called WolfBite. It's supposed to work extremely well. It is a bit expensive though, but takes VERY little on the glass plate, and you can get multiple prints out of 1 application. I'll let you know how it turns out.

WolfBite
 

KevinE

New member
But with the glue stick, how to you make sure there are no glue/brush marks on the finish (or remove them)?
 

John Bostwick

TVWBB Wizard
Pei, is the way to go with abs. But it needs a perfectly flat surface to get a good print with it and a good sanding with 1000 grit paper. No more prep work. Just remove a print and start printing with the next print, no need to cool down the extruder or build table. Only after a few prints i take some acetone and wipe it down. If your build plate is set perfectly and you have the heat set correctly, your prints will pop right off. If they have some whitish stress marks, then a hair dryer or heat gun will clean it right up.
 

WBegg

TVWBB Pro
But with the glue stick, how to you make sure there are no glue/brush marks on the finish (or remove them)?

I apply a few strokes of glue in the middle of the plate, then spread around with a wet towel until no noticeable streaks are seen.
 

 

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