Advice on restoring a 2005 Genesis Gold cabinet bottom


 
T

Thi Vu

New member
Hello, any advice on restoring this cabinet bottom for a 2005 Genesis restoration?

Is POR-15 still a thing? I sprayed it down with Dawn Powerwash and a pressure washer.

Thinking to tape up the bottom holes for a soak in Evaporust.

Thanks in advance.

IMG_0158.jpgIMG_0159.jpg
 
It looks like you decided to something about it before it was too late, so that's good. Yeah, you can use evaporust, Por-15, or whatever you want to on it. If you don't already have that stuff then a can of Rust-Oleum rust reformer and a can of Rust-Oleum 2X black is what I would use. It's relatively cheap, easy to use, and does the job. The important thing is to make sure you get all the bubbling paint off with a wire wheel, grinding wheel, or just hand sanding. There's rust underneath all of those paint bubbles and you can't just paint over them. The better your prep work, the longer it will last and look better as well.
 
I was asking because I recently tried my hand, for the first time, at something like this.

I used a flap disc to remove the loose peeling paint, and sand down the rust in those spots a bit.

Then I covered those spots with Rust Reformer, waited 24 Hours, then hit it with the Gray "Majic" Enamel Paint. I did notice that specific paint is a bit "more shine" than the original powder coating gray.
If you zoom you can clearly see where the spots are, but also I feel like I’m not really interested in stripping away the entire surface. I feel like this patch job is acceptable for a flip grill (especially when it will be shadowed inside once the cabinet is bolted back on), and just trying to convince myself of that (and hoping I didn’t do anything egregiously incorrect).

This is just one coat of the gray.

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John-NY said:
I was asking because I recently tried my hand, for the first time, at something like this.

I used a flap disc to remove the loose peeling paint, and sand down the rust in those spots a bit.

Then I covered those spots with Rust Reformer, waited 24 Hours, then hit it with the Gray Magik Enamel Paint.
If you zoom you can clearly see where the spots are, but also I feel like I’m not really interested in stripping away the entire surface. I feel like this patch job is acceptable for a flip grill (especially when it will be shadowed inside once the cabinet is bolted back on), and just trying to convince myself of that (and hoping I didn’t do anything egregiously incorrect).

This is just one coat of the gray.

View attachment 77750
Click to expand...
John, that looks fine. If anything, you could put another coat of paint on it. It's very difficult to get a smooth finish on these parts after you take care of the rust. The goal is to stop the rust and make it look presentable, mission accomplished on your part.
 
Steve Hoch said:
It looks like you decided to something about it before it was too late, so that's good. Yeah, you can use evaporust, Por-15, or whatever you want to on it. If you don't already have that stuff then a can of Rust-Oleum rust reformer and a can of Rust-Oleum 2X black is what I would use. It's relatively cheap, easy to use, and does the job. The important thing is to make sure you get all the bubbling paint off with a wire wheel, grinding wheel, or just hand sanding. There's rust underneath all of those paint bubbles and you can't just paint over them. The better your prep work, the longer it will last and look better as well.
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This, exactly. I like the por15, but it is spendy for sure. You've definitely gotten ahead of it
 
There is a reason POR15 and Eastwood Rust Encapsulator are expensive compared to the "wannabes". They're worth every penny because unlike the others they actually work.
 
John-NY said:
I was asking because I recently tried my hand, for the first time, at something like this.

I used a flap disc to remove the loose peeling paint, and sand down the rust in those spots a bit.

Then I covered those spots with Rust Reformer, waited 24 Hours, then hit it with the Gray "Majic" Enamel Paint. I did notice that specific paint is a bit "more shine" than the original powder coating gray.
If you zoom you can clearly see where the spots are, but also I feel like I’m not really interested in stripping away the entire surface. I feel like this patch job is acceptable for a flip grill (especially when it will be shadowed inside once the cabinet is bolted back on), and just trying to convince myself of that (and hoping I didn’t do anything egregiously incorrect).

This is just one coat of the gray.

View attachment 77750
Click to expand...

If you want to go the extra mile to make it look really good, scuff sand the areas that had the rust and apply some filler primer. It might take a couple coats and then block sand it. Eventually it will be smooth enough for a final top coat.

something like this.

1692920152519.png1692920263246.png
 
DanHoo said:
If you want to go the extra mile to make it look really good, scuff sand the areas that had the rust and apply some filler primer. It might take a couple coats and then block sand it. Eventually it will be smooth enough for a final top coat.

something like this.

View attachment 77752View attachment 77754
Click to expand...
I've never seen that stuff before. Does anyone have any experience using it? I definitely like the concept if it works well.
 
I've used it, but not on a grill.

It is a heavy coat primer that you can sand and it will fill in scratches or other flaws in the metal. I've never painted on top of POR but I'm going to guess it would work very well.

When I've had rust I've sanded it to bare metal, then used an epoxy sealer primer which adheres to bare metal really well. This goes on as a second or second/third coat. Block sanding will then smooth out the filler/primer and hide scratches. If the scratches are really bad, a second coat can help. If I recall, first coat was block sanded with 220 grit, and the second coat sanded with 400 grit.

I'm not a perfectionist, but I did this on a trailer and when it was done it was like new.
 
LMichaels said:
There is a reason POR15 and Eastwood Rust Encapsulator are expensive compared to the "wannabes". They're worth every penny because unlike the others they actually work.
Click to expand...
Have you tried the Eastwood internal frame coating? I'm planning to use that on the grill frames this winter when I do my tear downs
 
LMichaels said:
There is a reason POR15 and Eastwood Rust Encapsulator are expensive compared to the "wannabes". They're worth every penny because unlike the others they actually work.
Click to expand...
Have you tried the Eastwood internal frame coating? I'm planning to use that on the grill frames this winter when I do my te
Steve Hoch said:
I've never seen that stuff before. Does anyone have any experience using it? I definitely like the concept if it works well.
Click to expand...
It does work well if you have patience. Planning on using it this winter. I'm crazy though and will be wet sanding the final coat for a mirror shine
 
DanHoo said:
I've used it, but not on a grill.

It is a heavy coat primer that you can sand and it will fill in scratches or other flaws in the metal. I've never painted on top of POR but I'm going to guess it would work very well.

When I've had rust I've sanded it to bare metal, then used an epoxy sealer primer which adheres to bare metal really well. This goes on as a second or second/third coat. Block sanding will then smooth out the filler/primer and hide scratches. If the scratches are really bad, a second coat can help. If I recall, first coat was block sanded with 220 grit, and the second coat sanded with 400 grit.

I'm not a perfectionist, but I did this on a trailer and when it was done it was like new.
Click to expand...
It is highly recommended that you top coat Por15. Particularly if it will be exposed to sunlight. The UV rays will break it down otherwise.
 
Bruce said:
It is highly recommended that you top coat Por15. Particularly if it will be exposed to sunlight. The UV rays will break it down otherwise.
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I probably should have wrote, I've never used Por15, so I'm not sure how this primer would work on top of it.

Thank you for clarifying that Por 15 needs a top coat.
 
John-NY said:
I was asking because I recently tried my hand, for the first time, at something like this.

I used a flap disc to remove the loose peeling paint, and sand down the rust in those spots a bit.

Then I covered those spots with Rust Reformer, waited 24 Hours, then hit it with the Gray "Majic" Enamel Paint. I did notice that specific paint is a bit "more shine" than the original powder coating gray.
If you zoom you can clearly see where the spots are, but also I feel like I’m not really interested in stripping away the entire surface. I feel like this patch job is acceptable for a flip grill (especially when it will be shadowed inside once the cabinet is bolted back on), and just trying to convince myself of that (and hoping I didn’t do anything egregiously incorrect).

This is just one coat of the gray.

View attachment 77750
Click to expand...
The Majic paint works great and it has self leveling properties. See sample below that I have currently sitting exposed to the environment for testing.
 

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Eric-NH said:
Have you tried the Eastwood internal frame coating? I'm planning to use that on the grill frames this winter when I do my tear downs
Click to expand...
No, I have not. I had an occasion on a car I thought it would work better on, called Eastwood and they said it really wasn't worth the extra cost at that point
 
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