Q220 Flame level...


 
This regulator is NOT meant for low pressure use. Grills are meant/designed to run at NO MORE than 11"WC on LP NOT up to 20PSI. For reference 11"WC is .39 PSI. This is a HUGE difference. These adjustable regulators are meant EXCLUSIVELY for devices that REQUIRE high pressure LP to operate. Large space heaters, large high capacity burners i.e. what some folks call a turkey fryer, forced air LP heaters and so on. High pressure regulators are not accurate trying to keep them down to .5 PSI or less and so an application like this is extremely dangerous. Q regulators can be had anywhere from $45 to $60 and if one is malfunctioning is the ONLY SAFE way to proceed.
If someone is 100% sure they would never use a 1# bottle for their Q grill it is relatively easy to separate the regulator from the control valve and then using 1/8" NPT fittings easily available a standard tank mounted regulator running at the CORRECT SAFE pressure can be adapted. I did exactly this on my daughter's Q200 about 12 years ago and it works perfectly fine and SAFE to this day. So the idea of "saving?" perhaps $20 against the risk of running something totally not meant for and unsafe is something I canot understand and would hope anyone else reading this thread would never be foolish enough to attempt.
 
This is how I replaced the regulator on my Q200 for about $15.00. It runs perfectly off my 20lb tank. The only difference this is from replacing the actual Q regulator is that it doesn't have the ability to run off the 1lb throw away tanks. But, you have a correctly functioning regulator and retain the original valve and knob control.

This shows the hook up to the grill with the original Q regulator removed. The regulator was working fine, but the 1lb tank connector was jacked up. So, instead of paying $50 for a new Q regulator, I just converted it to the bulk hose and regulator which cost me $8.00. The adapters were another $6 or $7.

528OXUI.jpg


And here is the full length of hose from grill to tank.

X0wSGVX.jpg
 
Bruce said:
Matt: glad you got the problem solved. Does that red knob on the hose basically act as the burner valve knob?
Click to expand...

Thank you!

And no, it does not. That's the overall pressure adjustment and once you've dialed that in, you don't touch it again. You still use the same burner control valve that you previously have.
 
Bruce said:
This is how I replaced the regulator on my Q200 for about $15.00. It runs perfectly off my 20lb tank. The only difference this is from replacing the actual Q regulator is that it doesn't have the ability to run off the 1lb throw away tanks. But, you have a correctly functioning regulator and retain the original valve and knob control.

This shows the hook up to the grill with the original Q regulator removed. The regulator was working fine, but the 1lb tank connector was jacked up. So, instead of paying $50 for a new Q regulator, I just converted it to the bulk hose and regulator which cost me $8.00. The adapters were another $6 or $7.
Click to expand...

That's exactly what I did - only difference is the regulator on mine is pressure adjustable.
 
LMichaels said:
This regulator is NOT meant for low pressure use. Grills are meant/designed to run at NO MORE than 11"WC on LP NOT up to 20PSI. For reference 11"WC is .39 PSI. This is a HUGE difference. These adjustable regulators are meant EXCLUSIVELY for devices that REQUIRE high pressure LP to operate. Large space heaters, large high capacity burners i.e. what some folks call a turkey fryer, forced air LP heaters and so on. High pressure regulators are not accurate trying to keep them down to .5 PSI or less and so an application like this is extremely dangerous. Q regulators can be had anywhere from $45 to $60 and if one is malfunctioning is the ONLY SAFE way to proceed.
If someone is 100% sure they would never use a 1# bottle for their Q grill it is relatively easy to separate the regulator from the control valve and then using 1/8" NPT fittings easily available a standard tank mounted regulator running at the CORRECT SAFE pressure can be adapted. I did exactly this on my daughter's Q200 about 12 years ago and it works perfectly fine and SAFE to this day. So the idea of "saving?" perhaps $20 against the risk of running something totally not meant for and unsafe is something I canot understand and would hope anyone else reading this thread would never be foolish enough to attempt.
Click to expand...

I gotta be honest - you treat people like idiots. I'm not sure if you started this site, but you sure act like the resident gatekeeper.

I mean - you say the Q regulator is the ONLY SAFE way to proceed. Then you go and suggest an entirely different alternative. One that you just finished saying isn't safe. But it's one you did for your daughter? So which is it? Can there be a safe way that's not just the Q regulator?

The regulator works, and it works really well. You don't adjust it every time, you set it and leave it alone. If you adjust it too high - the flame goes out and you turn it down. If you adjust it too low - the flame goes out and you turn it up.

It is demonstrably less dangerous than the roaring 1,000 kamado style jet engine that runs next to it. It's also less dangerous than the sparks popping out of the Performer that sits around the corner. It's not hitting 900 degrees. It's doing the same 550 or so as everyone else's.

I appreciate that are here trying to help. I appreciate that you are trying to keep people safe. I appreciate where you are coming from and what you are trying to do - but your tone is aggressive and dismissive and people miss the valuable insight you have because of it.
 
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I mean - you say the Q regulator is the ONLY SAFE way to proceed. Then you go and suggest an entirely different alternative. One that you just finished saying isn't safe. But it's one you did for your daughter? So which is it? Can there be a safe way that's not just the Q regulator?

You need to re-read I NEVER indicated that. I even spelled out how I made the change on my daughter's Q200 when her regulator went bad. The regulator you used is what is dangerous not the method you used. Those adjustable regulators are NOT stable at pressures low enough to SAFELY operate a gas grill (especially a small one). And the ONLY reason I even bothered to respond to you is to hopefully prevent someone else from doing something this dangerous. For LESS money you could have done it with a PROPER regulator made precisely for low pressure operation and been totally safe and even cheaper.
Too bad you see common sense and knowledge as "aggressive". One think I learned a VERY long time ago is when I am in the presence of someone with more knowledge and experience with me is to STF up and listen, take notes and learn. With that I bid you well, and know my response above was NOT directed to you since I gave up trying to help you long before.
 
LMichaels said:
This regulator is NOT meant for low pressure use. Grills are meant/designed to run at NO MORE than 11"WC on LP NOT up to 20PSI. For reference 11"WC is .39 PSI. This is a HUGE difference. These adjustable regulators are meant EXCLUSIVELY for devices that REQUIRE high pressure LP to operate. Large space heaters, large high capacity burners i.e. what some folks call a turkey fryer, forced air LP heaters and so on. High pressure regulators are not accurate trying to keep them down to .5 PSI or less and so an application like this is extremely dangerous. Q regulators can be had anywhere from $45 to $60 and if one is malfunctioning is the ONLY SAFE way to proceed.
If someone is 100% sure they would never use a 1# bottle for their Q grill it is relatively easy to separate the regulator from the control valve and then using 1/8" NPT fittings easily available a standard tank mounted regulator running at the CORRECT SAFE pressure can be adapted. I did exactly this on my daughter's Q200 about 12 years ago and it works perfectly fine and SAFE to this day. So the idea of "saving?" perhaps $20 against the risk of running something totally not meant for and unsafe is something I canot understand and would hope anyone else reading this thread would never be foolish enough to attempt.
Click to expand...

LMichaels said:
I mean - you say the Q regulator is the ONLY SAFE way to proceed. Then you go and suggest an entirely different alternative. One that you just finished saying isn't safe. But it's one you did for your daughter? So which is it? Can there be a safe way that's not just the Q regulator?

You need to re-read I NEVER indicated that. I even spelled out how I made the change on my daughter's Q200 when her regulator went bad. The regulator you used is what is dangerous not the method you used. Those adjustable regulators are NOT stable at pressures low enough to SAFELY operate a gas grill (especially a small one). And the ONLY reason I even bothered to respond to you is to hopefully prevent someone else from doing something this dangerous. For LESS money you could have done it with a PROPER regulator made precisely for low pressure operation and been totally safe and even cheaper.
Too bad you see common sense and knowledge as "aggressive". One think I learned a VERY long time ago is when I am in the presence of someone with more knowledge and experience with me is to STF up and listen, take notes and learn. With that I bid you well, and know my response above was NOT directed to you since I gave up trying to help you long before.
Click to expand...

I went back and bolded exactly where you said it. You even went all caps.

Please, explain more the risks on this. Turn it up and flame goes out. Turn it down and the flame goes out. The crap Weber regulator was actually MORE dangerous because the flame was so anemic the wind would blow it out and then you would unknowingly be pumping propane into a closed space. This entirely solves that problem.

I see common sense and knowledge as just that. Hell, I recognized that in my entire last paragraph dedicated to that. Go re-read it.

You want to pretend that you are the scion of all things Weber, go right ahead. Maybe, stop making BOLDED absolute statements that turn out to be wrong, or full of misinformation. See the one above. And the previous statements that you SHOULD NEVER EVER BLEED THE LINE and that WEBER SAID NEVER TO DO THAT. Except that's exactly how they you and Weber tell you to fix the regulator problem.

I get forums. I spend a lot of time on other forums and have a nice big number next to my post count, just like you do over there. And, as I said before, I appreciate where you are coming from.

But if you want to be a teacher and have people STFU and listen, take notes and learn, then you need to learn to be a better teacher.
 
Matt
I don't think you will get the answer you want here. As has been stated "High pressure regulators are not accurate trying to keep them down to .5 PSI or less and so an application like this is extremely dangerous." You should ask the seller why they say Not suitable for appliances which need low pressure regulator.Why would you put a 20 PSI regulator on a Q? It's your grill do what you want but you don't have to be a AHOLE if the answers aren't what you want.
 
*Sigh*

It seems we've got a defective pressure regulator on this thread...we need to turn down the heat...show each other some common courtesy and good will...don't use terms like dick or ahole or idiot or STFU...please.
 
Bruce said:
OK, I would like some clarification on the consensus for the best way to power up and power down our grills.
To power down:
1. Turn the grill burner knob to off
2. Close the tank knob to "close"
which will leave the hose from the tank pressurized.

To power up:
1. Open the tank knob to "Open"
2. Turn the grill burner knob to Hi/Start
3. Light the gill

Is that the general consensus??? I have always turned the tank off first and let the flames die off and then closed the grill valve/valves. Then to power up I have always Turned on the tank first, then the grill burn knob and then lit it. I do know that if you turn the grill knob on before opening the tank, it often causes the low flame problem. But, I think in the future, I will be turning the grill off before the tank for now on and leave the gas line pressurized.
Click to expand...

I'm sorry if I missed it, there's a lot of good info in this thread but is the correct way to power up/down as suggested by Bruce agreeable by all?
 
Always open the grill lid before lighting!

Per Weber owner's manuals, these are the steps when lighting a grill with a cylinder that has a control valve.

To Light:

Open the lid.
Make sure burner control knob(s) is OFF.
Fully open the cylinder control valve.
Turn burner control knob to Start/Hi.
Press ignitor button to light grill.

To Extinguish:

Turn burner control knob(s) to OFF.
Fully close the cylinder control valve.
 
Chris Allingham said:
Per Weber owner's manuals, these are the steps when lighting a grill with a cylinder that has a control valve.

To Light:

Open the lid.
Make sure burner control knob(s) is OFF.
Fully open the cylinder control valve.
Turn burner control knob to Start/Hi.
Press ignitor button to light grill.

To Extinguish:

Turn burner control knob(s) to OFF.
Fully close the cylinder control valve.
Click to expand...

I do just the opposite at shutdown.

Is that harmful?
 
It can cause the flow control devices to shut down when you refire the grill. Hell I never shut the tank off. I know some frown on that BUT my theory is you turn off your gas stove or LP stove in the house, do you than go outside and shut off the master valve? Grills have the same valves as your stove. So unless you have critters chewing on your gas hoses there is no real reason to shut the tank off IMO and if there are critters then there are regulator assemblies like this https://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B0749DVPLR/tvwb-20 and if you get a critter that chews through that you have REAL issues :D
 
Rusty James said:
I do just the opposite at shutdown.

Is that harmful?
Click to expand...

I think it's just to emphasize that the burner control knobs get shut off as part of the process. If you only turn off the cylinder control knob but forget and leave the burners on, next time you open the cylinder valve you will trip the safety control on the burners and you'll have to go through the reset process.
 
I have seen times, using my old Sunbeam, that I accidentally left the burner control knobs in the *on* position after shutting off the tank valve.

Not a good practice I'm sure.

I'll do it the recommended way from now own.

I am a little concerned about the Q grill. There is no tank valve on the 1lb bottles, and it doesn't seem to take much effort bump the burner control to the *on* position. The bottle are nice, but I may opt for a converter hose now that I have already gone through three bottles.
 
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