Silver C Project


 
It really does Bruce they pretty much look like new and with a few coats of clear maintenance should be nothing more than a damp rag to wipe them down.
 
So a few more things the redhead lid inside probably not been cleaned in 20 years have been experimenting with Goo Gone oven grill cleaner even that is not some miracle solution so I think it was Tim who gave me the idea of heat so used my Benzo to heat the carbon follow it behind with the razor blade to try and get the thick crap off before hitting it with the goo then the steel wool. Working pretty good started working on the inside lid small area at a time.

Decided to take a few pictures of the tables, the C he gave me a cover the B guessing never had one maybe Weber changed the color of those tables but I doubt it look at the difference in the richness of the tables one faded one not.

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Brian B Atlanta said:
It really does Bruce they pretty much look like new and with a few coats of clear maintenance should be nothing more than a damp rag to wipe them down.
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It's looking good. That fade on the tables is pretty drastic. But, I am interested to see how those end caps wear. I am worried they might chip if they get bumped or something hard hits them.
 
Brian,

You may have already seen this, but on the Weber Kettle Club site they have this article about restoring thermoset tables. Basically, you are sanding down to below the faded area. I do think it can work well in most situation. I have a Platinum One Touch with really bad tables. If I can get my Genesis Platinum done, maybe I will get to it:mad:! I will post before and after based on my own experience.

If you aren't comfortable using 303, others say that food grade mineral oil also works as the final step.

http://weberkettleclub.com/blog/2017/02/20/weber-performer-table-restoration/
 
I may give that a shot this next summer on some badly stained/faded thermoset tables. My question is, how does it look after a couple months of use outside in the elements? But I think I have a couple shelves that are not usable, even after cleaning them up, so if that method doesn't work, then just some time is all that is lost.
 
Jon, I have seen it but I got the grease off not sure that sanding method is going to restore those faded tables to look like the other ones I have but will be interested to see your results when you do yours. On the good ones I am going to wipe down with 303 been using it for years and still have a bottle. Its a bit of a dull finish if you ask me but it is also a far better product than armour all in the UV area which is why its better for car and truck interiors.

I don't need those faded tables they are just stock.

Bruce not so worried about the end caps chipping really after Jon's knob pictures where the cover had worn the paint off that would be a concern as well as the tool holders as I use the leather laces to hang my grill brush. I think the 2 coats of clear will go along ways towards protection but I honestly think letting the paint properly cure for the 7 days then the clear coat let sit another 7 to let that cure will do the trick but we will see.
 
For those who have a b or c how hot does the handle get when cooking debating high heat clear or regular leaning towards high heat since I bought a can. I will not paint the ends that go into the end caps that is where the hottest point should be so just what you can see.

Bruce what kind of sheen is that 2000 degree clear since I think you used it before, is it satin flat or whatever.
 
Bruce said:
Brian, it is GLOSS and if you put it on a flat, matte or whatever, it will make it a Gloss finish.

I would probably use some kind of heat resistant paint on the handle just to be safe. Just some 500 degree stuff would be plenty. I really don't think it will all that hot, but it might in some situations. This stuff might work well: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Ol...emi-Gloss-Silver-Spray-Paint-270201/203815372
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Bruce, going to have to take a chance on the paint I used for the frame end caps on the handle to make sure it all matches which the frame end caps probably don't need the high heat clear but I want to make sure it all looks the same gloss is fine. My theory and probably a bad one is that the high heat clear will compensate for the regular paint since that is the top coat.

Since I got the Silver B for free if it turns out to be a disaster I have the end caps and handle from that one. I think it will be fine but all this stuff will cure for at least 10 days before I put it back together. Finally warming up here so should be able to finish the frame this weekend.

What is really nice about the B firebox and end caps for the lid is they are in really good shape maybe just spray them down with simple green or the Krud cutter clean them up on the outside but looks like I don't need to hit them with the angle grinder so the original dimpled finished or whatever you want to call it will be preserved.
 
So good day today warming up in the ATL finished the frame. I actually saved the axle endcaps cut one axle in half since I intend on the 1100 to buy a new stainless one. Put it in my vice and gentley took a screwdriver to the back of the metal got them out I did not remove the plastic piece so it is not damaged only hit the metal with the screwdriver. I have another axle that I don't want to cut so will try the same thing while it is on the frame.

Bruce is correct not that I ever doubted him the 2000 clear is a high gloss you can see it on the axle endcaps. I may take a chance on the frame plastic endcaps and the handle and use my satin I think the gloss might be a bit much.

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You might try using a heat gun. I just now heated the plastic part and popped it off very easily. Just don't heat it too much.
After the plastic is off, you can work on the metal part, get it off and pop it back into the plastic part. Easy peasy

Gerry
 
G Schafer said:
You might try using a heat gun. I just now heated the plastic part and popped it off very easily. Just don't heat it too much.
After the plastic is off, you can work on the metal part, get it off and pop it back into the plastic part. Easy peasy

Gerry
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Gerry, the reason I left the plastic part intact is when I did my 1000 is the metal piece will warp I got it to work putting it back into the plastic with some vice grips. Using this method it is not an issue since it will not be out of round if you know what I mean. There is no need to take off the plastic cap but the question is can I get them off a full axle not a lot of room for the screwdriver but for sure will report back.
 
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Got a question for you guys and gals working on the firebox today looks like I might be lucky the outside texture looks fine rub it down hit it with some acetone and paint. But when did paint the firebox think when I did the 1000 I ran masking tape on the top edge into the hole openings for the rotis or whatever and just sprayed to the top on the sides. But my question is the side grooves whatever you call them you can see the exposed area I hit with the wire brush are you taping the side and then painting from there?

If anyone has any pictures on how the did it would appreciate it.
 
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Brian, on all my firebox repaints, I use butcher paper to line the inside and tape off the inside of the entire firebox. I put the tape on the INSIDE of the firebox up to the very edge, but not over, and all the way around. The very top edge winds up getting paint all the way around along with the outside.

Going off your photo above, the Silver edge that you have cleaned off would have gotten paint the way I do it. My tape would run behind the holes and rotisserie openings, but not into or over them.

I dont think I have pictures however. I hope that answers your question on how I do it.
 
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