Underway: 2013 Spirit S-210


 
Stefan H said:
I wonder if a high heat special grease is really needed. The manifold normally does not get that hot. And you are supposed to apply a very thin coat anyhow. For my internal hub gears on my bicycles and all the other bike bearings I use a marine grade bearing grease which is rated to 500F. I wonder if I could just use that stuff. I don’t really want to buy another type of grease just for the valves.
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Those were my same thoughts. I'm trying to minimize my costs for this project and do not want to buy something that I'll likely never use again.
 
Than simply use anything not containing silicone. Of course the stuff that was recommended costs $1.00 I have some packets here PM me your address I'll mail them to you :D
 
LMichaels said:
Than simply use anything not containing silicone. Of course the stuff that was recommended costs $1.00 I have some packets here PM me your address I'll mail them to you :D
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Kind offer. Thank you. I think I'm good. I just cleaned up the manifold and bracket and sprayed them with Rust Reformer. Working on sheet metal now.
 
Bruce said:
What exactly are those packets Larry?
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Probably similar to these:

IMG_9029.jpg
 
OK, then just regular brake/caliper grease.. THanks.
I was getting confused with all the stuff being discussed.
 
Chris Allingham said:
Probably similar to these:

IMG_9029.jpg
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Yeah, the little packets sure make sense. I bought a jar of the CRC stuff that is enough to do 500 grills! It will probably go bad before I even make a small dent in the amount I purchased. I like that the packets are individual and more appropriate for the light use this job takes.

I have to thank Larry and Chris again for combining talents and making such a great resource available to us. Watching the video took away my fear of trying it out. Now I suspect I will do it pre-emptively on most all my restores...I have enough grease for sure:rolleyes:!
 
Yep, I have a s&*tload of them as because when my friend and I had our repair business I bought a tub of the stuff and even with the countless brake jobs I have done over the last 15 years it's still nearly full. Heck I still have a tube of OEM Delco distributor cam grease I pulled from the tool room back when I was a tech in the 60's at Cadillac on Rush St in Chicago LOL and that tube is still about full.
Anyway when I buy brakes lately they always come with those little packets. I save them. Why? Who knows LOL
 
Yah, I know a lot of brakes come with them too. It would be nice to find a source that would sell a half dozen or so packs for a few bucks. Actually, on pack is probably good for several grills.

Hey, what about this stuff? Permatex is a great brand and a 2 oz tube is convienient but should last forever doing grills and even a break job or two. It is synthetic but I don't see anywhere that says it is moly or Silicone based.

https://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B000HBM85C/tvwb-20
 
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Bruce said:
Yah, I know a lot of brakes come with them too. It would be nice to find a source that would sell a half dozen or so packs for a few bucks. Actually, on pack is probably good for several grills.

Hey, what about this stuff? Permatex is a great brand and a 2 oz tube is convienient but should last forever doing grills and even a break job or two. It is synthetic but I don't see anywhere that says it is moly or Silicone based.

https://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B000HBM85C/tvwb-20
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Bruce, that is the same I used but I got the smaller packet instead.

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p...977/7730004-P?searchTerm=disc+brake+lubricant

And that's the one that is in the Weber how to restoration guide under manifold.
 
I may pick up a bottle then. I am about due for a brake job on my truck as well. Then maybe start lubing my rehab grills as well. I had only done my personal grill in the past, but I know some of my rehabs could have used some smoother operating valves in the past.
 
I checked it out. Not silicone. They do sell a silicone product though. However I do NOT recommend it either for brakes or valves. My experience with silicone brake products has not been at all good. The stuff migrates out of the boots all over the pins, does not seal properly against moisture and road salts and causes the pins to lock up solid. And before you know it you're hard work and all the expensive brake parts you installed go up in smoke faster than you can say "Cheech and Chong" Some of the youngsters here may not appreciate the reference but us old farts will.
I notice no Moly in the MSDS sheet listed but that does not mean it won't work well in the valves. Moly is nice because it lubricates well and prevents sticking even with extremely fine film
 
Some considerable progress today. I picked up one of these at HF:https://www.harborfreight.com/4-in-polycarbide-abrasive-wheel-60508.html

I like this one instead of a cup brush to get to the rust that has blistered under the paint. I tore through 80% of this thing between the base and the worst side panel. Picked up a new cup brush while there. I've got one panel completed and painted. The base and the other panel are almost ready to rust treat...and I'm trying this one for the remainder:https://m.lowes.com/pd/loctite-rust...2yiOVnlndWQKRa25FUxPbcKAstNer3c0aAncyEALw_wcB

I estimate I'll be throwing $55 at this all in. Almost all paint and primer and a few pieces of hardware.
 
More progress

More progress but it's slow going. Prudent decision to make a new base from 1/2" plywood. Used the metal base as a template for the side panel bolts. I bought 1/4"x1" galvanized hex boots, fender washers and stop nuts. Put a coat of deck stain on. One more coat to go.
http://imgur.com/gallery/J11DIfx
 
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I'm not experienced enough to tell you guys the best high heat paint to use but I'm now experienced enough to to tell you definitely which Not to use: Krylon Special Purpose High Heat Silver Aluminum gloss. What was I thinking?? :confused:Pure crap. It spit all over the place. Sprays like water. Runs like water.
A $7 mistake. Not to mention it gives a full on pimp my grill look. I'm considering it high heat primer and going to flat gray or black Rustoleum.
 
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