Genesis II 325 NG - Failed conversion to Propane


 

JoeR

TVWBB Member
Got a mess on my hands. Ordered the wrong version (NG), swapped orifices to allow conversion to propane and it runs WAY too hot, flames leaping up 4-5 inches. Ordered the conversion kit on Ebay from someone with impeccable feedback. He tells me I must have fixed valves rather than continuous, and conversion will be much more complicated than just swapping orifices.

Question I've got is, how much more complicated, and expensive? Cutting my losses at this point won't be cheap (put the NG orifices back & sell it for maybe half price) but that's on the table too.
 
When you turn the controls does the flame height change at all? BTW the person is giving you some crap there. First off every new Genesis I have looked at has continuous valves. Bottom like he drilled them wrong. If you can find the "spuds" new orifices with only a tiny pilot hole in them and send them to me along with the specs of your grill I would be happy to size them correctly for you. I would also be sure you did not buy a high pressure regulator which is used in LP heater applications or large burners like turkey fryers, etc. If so your issue is as simple as a different proper low pressure regulator. My guess is the person misunderstood you and gave NG orifices rather than LP. But, like I said if you can find the proper size blank spud or if someone here can tell me what they are I am happy to help. no charge either (unless I have to buy something LOL)
 
Yes, I get a change from way way too much, to way too much. Specifically what the guy told me was
"Weber buys these parts from china..the vendors supply variable orifice
valves 99 % of the time because they are cheaper to make..but on occasion
will supply fixed orifice valves (as long as they meet the btu spec). Any
model new or old can have this component."

When I put the orifices in, I eyeballed and the new ones had smaller holes than the old. Maybe not small enough, I'll dig them out tomorrow.

I don't think the regulator is a problem -
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Check the output pressure of your regulator. If it's rated for anything other than 11" WC it's wrong one. Again whether or not you have variable orifices would not make a big difference. The only issue it would bring up is (in your application going from NG to LP) is low and medium would not be as low as you might like. I think the EBay seller bamboozled you
 
Check the output pressure of your regulator. If it's rated for anything other than 11" WC it's wrong one. Again whether or not you have variable orifices would not make a big difference. The only issue it would bring up is (in your application going from NG to LP) is low and medium would not be as low as you might like. I think the EBay seller bamboozled you

How can I check the output pressure? I've tried searching online for info based on the numbers on it, coming up blank. Logo indicates its from GasOne which looks like a reputable company. Didn't have time today to dig out the front orifices, but I did eyeball the side/simmer burner where its accessible - its possible I've been bamboozled, but the orifices I was sent are visibly smaller than the NG one that came with the grill.

Seller sent me an adjustable regulator as a fix, but its not a real fix. I can dial it to give appropriate flame level, but it needs to be readjusted whenever I open up or close a burner.
 
Those adjustable regulators are bad news. Don't use it. The regulator you have from GasOne (and BTW just because it may be the wrong regulator does not make the regulator company irreputable) just simply means you don't have the proper one. Somewhere on the regulator there should be something referring to 11" WC (Water Column) which is a unit of measure for gas. Now just because it may say 11" doesn't mean it's what you're getting. It may be faulty. I would simply run out to Home Depot and buy a different one for a gas grill there. They're pretty standardized now so as long as the hose is long enough you're good. Slap a new one on and see what happens but get that adjustable one off. They're not meant for that application
 
Swapped out the regulator, still running too hot.
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Guess the next step is calling grill-repair for correct orifices? Looks like they'll drill for me if I supply the BTU target. Should I consider the whole manifold, would that give more control for low & medium temps?


And for the side burner, does this look roughly right to anyone with a 300 series? Figured I'd mostly use it as a simmer burner & its way too hot, but maybe that's how its supposed to be. This is on low -
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Yeah side burner should look similar on high not on low. Definitely getting WAY too much gas into that thing. True is you find an entire manifold with proper regulator it would be the best but you should be able to get properly sized orifices. I have posted companies I use to buy spuds. May want to find that, send them to me and I will do it for free for you
 
Forgot to report back with an update - I'm up & running now, with a little fine tuning needed when I've got the time & inclination. Decided to pursue the whole manifold conversion, and unfortunately the Genesis II is so new the appropriate manifold isn't out there for the 335. Perhaps I should have grabbed an older one since swapping the valves & spuds was an option, but I couldn't verify that the valves hadn't changed. So I ended up getting a manifold for a different genesis II (4 burner model) and swapped the valves & spuds. My sear burner goes back & forth between failing to light or burning perhaps a little hot (that's the fine tuning I'll need to deal with).
Not the cheapest fix but I'm happy, my plan B was to roll it out onto the curb.
 
I'm in the same boat with my 435... replaced the orphis' and the regulator and I have high and higher flames. Not sure what you used for manifold, but in was able to find a 410 manifold that I could attempt to install.
I'm debating on scrapping the conversion project... need to stop the 💸 bleeding.
 
I have never tried to covert a grill by swapping out the orifices. But, I don't think I would ever go that route. To many complications and gotchas for the average joe. Swapping out the whole manifold is sooo much simpler IMO. It is just a matter of finding a donor grill.
 
For about $100 or so getting a new genuine Weber manifold is not worth risking it.
These things last like 10 years from new so thats about $1 a month, cheap enough to justify the cost.
Besides we hear stories and issues with the older regulators all the time, so a new manifold would be best.
 
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I would wait for a donor grill. It might take some time, but you should be able to find one for under $50 the way the cabinets rust out.
 
Honestly I have never had a conversion fail. You have to be careful and methodical BUT if done correctly conversion works just fine. Though admittedly the easiest most fool proof way is to simply swap out an entire assembly
 
Honestly I have never had a conversion fail. You have to be careful and methodical BUT if done correctly conversion works just fine. Though admittedly the easiest most fool proof way is to simply swap out an entire assembly

At this point, I'm leaning toward changing the whole manifold... the sear burner and the side burner won't be swapped because parts are not available for the 435 yet... so I'll have to try the manifold from the 410.

And it looks like we'll be grilling on my charcoal weber this weekend!
 
If your grill has the extra burners, then you will either need to find a manifold with an extra tap or you will have to modify a 410 to include a tap for the extra side burner. I am not sure how the sear burners are tied in.
 
I think I'll be returning it to NG, cutting my losses and selling it. I have a temporary fix, with an adjustable regulator into a low pressure regulator to control the flame. It would work for this weekend but not for long term. I know, not ideal and that's why I won't be using it this way... but I had to try!!
 

 

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