First Restoration- Ran into a headache


 
E

EddF

TVWBB Member
So I’m restoring my very first Weber Genesis 1000 and everything was going smoothly until I realized that the back burner control valve was seized and I couldn’t push down to turn it. I tried a few light taps with a hammer, some WD40 and brake cleaner to no avail. The screws were stripped out and I have to get the right size bit to try and drill them out. My question is, if I can’t get it opened to grease the spring, how do you replace it? I don’t see any screws or bolts on the manifold holding it in.

Also, does anyone know the drill size I’d need to drill the screws out or what size the screws are once I get them drilled out?
 
Your best bet it is to probably find a replacement manifold. It shouldn't be too hard to find a free or inexpensive 1000 to steal the manifold from.
 
Yep I cringed when I read that. First off some good penetrant NOT WD40. Use PBlaster. I have not found one yet it would not free up. Then take it apart, fully clean and relube. I am sure some small self tapping screws can be found at a local hardware establishment. Exact size is not important only length (maybe 4mm). A small vice grip will help get them out. I don't recommend drilling
 
I luckily found a free silver b that someone is getting rid of that I was going to take the lid from. Hopefully the manifold should fit too. I did liquid wrench as well but the tops of the screws are so worn any tension breaks away the metal. I already started drilling one out because the rubber band stripped screw trick didn’t work unfortunately.
 
Also, if drilling the one stripped out and somehow managing the other one doesn’t work, is it difficult to get off the brass valve? I found the part 36400 on grill parts for $20 but don’t want to waste the money if it will be risky
 
Bruce said:
Edd: The manifold from a silver B will NOT fit a 1000.
Click to expand...

Yup, I second that. Edd, in the mean time, maybe you can restore the Silver B first instead then look for a donor 1000 grill to restore your 1000?
 
I could do that. Lol unless the grill grates and 13 flavorizers from the 1000 won’t fit in the silver. I literally had everything sanded power washed painted and replaced until I ran into this headache. My only option for now until I get the silver b this weekend (literally just using it for a head swap) is to try and get the screws out with grip plyers or drilling the one I started drilling out and keep my fingers crossed. I wish I checked it first lol
 
I have a 1000 manifold that is in bad shape (rust) but I believe the valves are still good. Send me a PM if you're interested in a valve. Will sell for a few bucks plus shipping.
 
You need a solvent to free the valve. The valve may be stuck down, not up, so try pulling on it while you drip a little acetone, for example, onto the stem.

After watching the video and opening up two out of three gas valves on my first grill repair I made this note to myself in my log: "The gas valves can be fixed without disassembly by applying solvent to the stems and working them up and down while wiping them."
 
Solvent will not dissolve rust. I have in desperation due to stripped screws used PBlaster. It works but is NOT permanent and not a true "fix". Skip the acetone. Waste of time and $$$$
 
LMichaels said:
Solvent will not dissolve rust. I have in desperation due to stripped screws used PBlaster. It works but is NOT permanent and not a true "fix". Skip the acetone. Waste of time and $$$$
Click to expand...

Maybe we're talking about different things, I dunno. On the one manifold I have worked on the gas valves were made of brass with the possible exception of the caps which might be plated steel, I'd have to go back and look at them to be sure.

The valve stems were binding and sticking due to old grease and contamination that enters the valve from the top around the stem. I opened and cleaned two valves by the book so to speak (by the video really) but then the head of one of the screws on the third valve stripped.

Rather than mess with the stripped screw head I grabbed the nearest can of solvent, which happened to be spray carburettor cleaner, and had the third valve stem freed up and working smoothly within seconds.

That's my limited experience, YMMV.
 
You guys don't get it. Not the $$$ it's just a waste of time. I have actually in cases where I could not get a valve apart, I have used a pinch of PBlaster and once free a tiny drop on ATF (transmission fluid) on the stem. Yes ATF can take a lot of heat plus has penetrant/detergent properties. It's kept my Wolf going for years
 
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