I bought a grill to rehab


 

Eddie Monroe

TVWBB Member
Well, I just bought my first grill with the specific intention of rehabbing it. $50 and the only thing I can find that is definitely broken is the ignighter button. I am rehabbing it for my daughter.
Can anyone tell me specifically what model it is? The label writing is completely faded. The fire box looks exactly like my old Weber 900 but this one has the plastic work surfaces instead of the wood.
vbHROZ.jpg


It is in much better shape than my old 900 so should be much easier to rehab and will be a good learning platform. My plan is to spray all the screws and nuts once or twice a day for a couple of days with pb blaster or some other rust penetrant then disassemble it completely. I’ll be asking a lot of questions.

Eddie


Here are the rest of the pics.
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That is a Genesis Silver B grill and probably early to mid 2000's vintage. Those are a very good candidate for rehabbing.

I would replace the flavorizer bars and probably the grates as well. They look pretty nasty and rusty. Add in a new igniter and you are looking at around $100 for a brand new grill.

https://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B01CGMIORK/tvwb-20

https://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B077XQJ6C4/tvwb-20

https://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B06XFDKVC9/tvwb-20

Likely, you won't get the cookbox bolt on the left side. Don't sweat it. Just twist it off and buy a new 2" stainless steel 1/4"x20 - 2" bolt and nut at any hardware store.
 
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Eddie,

WELCOME!

That looks like your basic Genesis Silver B from very early 2000's. It is a nice solid platform for doing a rehab. I am personally a big fan of those original Weber cast iron grates. They may look rough, but if you are patient and do a good job with a grinder/wire brush on them you can get all that rust off, re-season and then have some wonderful old-fashioned grates. Yes, good stainless ones will cook excellently, too, and would be a lot less work to maintain. I just think cast iron has a special charm. At least consider it for originality;).

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The rest looks like disassembly, cleaning and some other parts as needed. There are many threads you can look at and the "sticky" at the top lists lots of great options for parts, etc. Take some time to review these and you will save yourself a lot of hassles and mistakes we have all made.
 
That’s a nice pickup you got there! I think the flavorizer bars look fine. I would just wire brush them and continue to use them.
 
The only thing I didn't see mentioned was the burner tubes. What shape are they in? If they are good you can clean everything up, get a new ignitor and be ready to grill. Just depends on how far you want to go with the rehab.

What are you planning to do to it as far as the rehab goes?
 
The burner tubes are actually in good shape, a little bit of rust but mostly still shiney. I suspect they have been replaced at least once. The flavorizor bars are useable but ugly. The fire box looks pretty good but has some peeling paint on it so I think it may have been repainted with the wrong paint.
I plan to completely disassemble the grill entirely, do rust treatment and repaint each piece. I plan to reassemble with stainless bolts and screws.
One thing I am not sure how to best handle are the warming racks. They are very rusted but I am afraid there won’t be much left if I remove the rust. I am assuming I don’t want to paint anything inside the grill.
This is a gift for my daughter for Christmas. She and her husband bought one of those big chrome grill from a big box store and it was mostly rusted away in 5 years. I tried to talk them into a Weber then but they liked the shiney one. I want to get them a good one so I plan to go the extra distance.

Eddie
 
Yah, don't paint anything inside the cook box. Throw the warming racks out....Replace them if you want, but I wouldn't bother. Otherwise, I think you have a good game plan for rehabbing that grill. That grill will be around longer than three of those shiny chineseum grills.
 
Dump the warming racks. They are cheap to replace and not worthwhile saving. By the way I use the elevated warming rack from new Spirit. The regular one sits too low over the grates and it is in the way when you work with food on the main grates.
https://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B00MQ7X250/tvwb-20
Since you mention painting. Please only paint the outside of the firebox. I have recently seen in various FB groups that people paint the inside of the firebox as well. These high temp paints are NOT food safe and should never be used inside the firebox or lid.
 
Here is an exploded view. Apologies for the tiny size I’m having trouble with photobucket.



No unexpected crises occurred in the disassembly. I did break most of the bolts for the square tube inserts but kind of expected that. There is not any significant rust. The problem with the ignighter seems to be with the panel button itself.

The label is completely faded so I took the control panel inside and examined the label under a black light. I think I read the correct model and serial number but I’m not 100% sure I got it all right. I could make out the Silver B and LP box info.
Eddie
 
I spent the morning completing the disassembly and cleaning the really grimy parts with mean green. Now I am ready for rust remediation. There is surprisingly little visible exterior rust all of which can be fixed with some minor sanding and repainting.
The side of cross member where the heat box is attached is pretty rusted around the hole; side away from the heat box is fine. I’m thinking it is not worth trying to replace the cross member but maybe add some kind of sleeve for the bolt or leave it alone.
I can see superficial rust inside the frame tubes. I am thinking of pouring some kind of rust converter down each tube to neutralize the rust then pour a thinned rust preventive paint like rustoleum down to cover it all. Has anyone done anything like that? Any suggestions on A good rust converter for this?
Eddie
 
Oh, yeah. I watched that video. I forgot. I was just thinking I didn’t have an easy way to get the new cross member welded back into place. I forgot about the inserts. BTW... is there any big difference in the inserts that are completely inserted into the tube vs the ones that have the lip of the insert on the end of the tube. Excluding the 1/32in difference in final length.
Eddie
 
You just have to account for that 1/32" when you are making the new cross member.
 
It is coming along nicely. I spent today sanding the frame and doing some rust treatment. Little bit of sanding tomorrow the start painting the frame. I am going to replace the rusted cross member on Monday when the inserts from McMasterCarr arrive. I purchased a cheapo Craftsman grinder from Lowe’s to do it. I hope Black and Decker hasn’t removed all the quality yet. (I hate B&D.)
One question arose as I was taking the gas control valves off to sand that bracket. Do I need to replace the little gaskets in the gas line when I reassemble? If so, is there anything specific to look for and where would I find them?
Eddie
 
Another question... the end of one of the nylon “tank glides” is broken. This looks like a tall hex acorn cap nut. It is used to hold the bottom edge of the tank away from the grill. I’ve seen stainless steel versions of this for $18 each but can’t find a plastic rubber or nylon version. Any suggestions on an alternative?
Also, still wondering about the gas valve gaskets replacement? Should I go ahead and take the control valves apart and clean them?
 
One question arose as I was taking the gas control valves off to sand that bracket. Do I need to replace the little gaskets in the gas line when I reassemble? If so, is there anything specific to look for and where would I find them?

Can you post a picture of what you are referring to as the "little gaskets in the gas line" ?
 
Ok, finally have a picture. The gasket is the little red ring around the brass piece and seals against the gas control bracket. Should I worry about changing them? Should I do any maintenance on the valve itself? Now is the time if it needs to be done at all.
The other pieces shown are the tank glides. I found a couple of rubber stoppers that I am going to try to drill out and fabricate an alternative. Seems like I am always coloring outside the lines.
Eddie
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Eddie:
I've only done this on my one grill, but I didn't replace the gaskets on mine. I would just make sure the surfaces are clean before reconnecting the valve to the manifold and then check for leaks. While you have them tore down, I would do the cleaning and re-lube that Chris has a video of elsewhere on the forum. Makes the valves move freely and pop back into the various lock positions.
 

 

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