Starting My 2nd Restore: Skyline 1200 LP


 

Christopher M

TVWBB Member
I originally went to pick up a Genesis Platinum, but the seller sold it as I was on the way. I ended up finding this beat up Skyline. After 20 minutes of Simple Green and some #0000 steel wool, things are looking promising. I may have an extra shelf from my previous restore, so might look up RCplanebuyer for the Z-bar. My initial plan is to redo the wood with something that is really light and use a Summer Oak stain. Not sure yet.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/CqD2qbfEvAmtq8r2A

Parts order thus far:
Hongso Cooking Grates (this is my second rehab, so didn't want to splurge for RCPlanebuyer grates)
Replacement thermometer
New regulator
Hongso Burner Tubes
Only Fire flavorizer bars

I splurged for the tank scale, since the old one was rusted out and this will help the overall look of the restore.

Of course, putting in all this work, I need a cover.

I have some SS hardware leftover from previous restore, so will have to inventory everything before ordering.

Here's a look at the previous restore. Last step is to fabricate and stain a new handle.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/iRF4ST9HUM8BAzob8
 
I'm finishing up my skyline and had the same thoughts-add some cedar with just spar varnish. Think it will look real sharp.
 
Very impressive turn around on that lid. I really like my skyline to the point after I restored it now it just sits under it's cover and once in awhile I take the cover off and admire it and cover it back up. Don't use … don't want to get it dirty :rolleyes:
 
Rich, that is like having a 68 Camero sitting in the garage and refusing to drive it.
 
I've seen a handful of Skylines restored and they are using black knobs. Anyone have insight on what model knobs are being used and where I might acquire them? Similarly, I've seen black handles too - any insight would be great.

Took a day off from restoring to cook on the Skyline. It has an old tank connection, but I had a tank from the green Genesis. Porcelan grates cleaned up nicely - good enough to cook on. Hit 500 degrees with relative ease.

Also, ordered all of my hardware from BoltDepot. The shipping is less expensive than Marsh and I was able to get everything I need. Will do a major clean this week and start the tear down. Dreading the firebox screw. As soon as I'm done cleaning, I'm going to hit with PBlaster.

I managed to acquire a Red Genesis 1000, but it's NG. Going to use it for parts and keep the top. Now I've got my swing shelf. The current manifold on my Skyline is going to need some cleaning and lubing.
 
As far as I know the black knobs came on only a select few grills in one year around the mid 2000's. The handles are a bit more prevalent and came on more models and more years. I do believe you can buy the black knobs, but they will run you about $20 to $25 per set. I would just look for a donor grill for the black handles.

Don't sweat the firebox screw. It is most likely never going to come apart freely. I just put a vice grip on one end and a wrench the other end until it breaks. Then I simple replace it with a new Stainless Steel 2" bolt and nut.

There is a great video by Chris Allingham on lubing the valves on a Weber manifold. I don't know the link, but a search should bring the thread up for you.
 
As far as I know the black knobs came on only a select few grills in one year around the mid 2000's. The handles are a bit more prevalent and came on more models and more years. I do believe you can buy the black knobs, but they will run you about $20 to $25 per set. I would just look for a donor grill for the black handles.

Don't sweat the firebox screw. It is most likely never going to come apart freely. I just put a vice grip on one end and a wrench the other end until it breaks. Then I simple replace it with a new Stainless Steel 2" bolt and nut.

There is a great video by Chris Allingham on lubing the valves on a Weber manifold. I don't know the link, but a search should bring the thread up for you.

Thanks. I think I found the knobs. Ordered knobs and ignite switch.

Weber Part# 87680
Weber Part #87679

$40 shipped, so not cheap, but I've seen a number of rehabs here use them and they look great.
 
Yah, the black knobs are kind of coveted with rehabbers. Just not worth buying new ones usually as they don't add enough to the finished product to make them worth it for flipping grills.
 
Checking in with a progress update. Before starting, I cleaned up the grates and cooked on it. Was a joy coming from an old Ducane that has rusted cheap flavor bars and grates.

The amount of work this grill needed was more than my mean green, but offset by the experience I've had rehabbing the previous grill. I picked up a Redhead 1000 NG that I've been using as a donor grill. The frame was in better shape and it had the Z-bar and swing tray. Also pulled the drip pan from it, which was in better shape.

Moving onto the Skyline, I used Evaporust on the manifold. It did a fair job. I was able to unscrew one of the valves and lube following the tutorial by Chris. The others seemed too rusty and I was afraid it would strip. Painted it and attached a new regulator using teflon tape.

The bolt on the left of the firebox remains my nemesis. I just don't have the patience and fought it. I ended up drilling part of the screw and landed to the left. I'm going to throw a bolt threw it and hope a wingnut covers the opening. Should I be concerned if a little heat escapes through this if the screw isn't flush? I may have to continue sanding the remaining screw.

I painted the firebox matte black using Rustoleum High Heat. The lid side panels, frame, logo and tray parts I used Rustoleum Ultra. I'm real excited about how the lid came out. My mistake last time was sanding. This time, I just cleaned and painted.

Having spent a few weeks getting this far, I was anxious to see if it would fire up. Installed the new burner tubes on my freshly painted firebox, manifold and fired it up. Worked great. Sprayed some soapy water to check from leaks on the tank and where I connected the regulator to the manifold. Everything appears to be working. Should I spray the individual valves?

Next up, sand the Weber logo using various sandpaper grit to achieve a smooth surface. I need to cut and stain the pine I purchased. I had some old Minwax Jacobean lying around and it looked great on a piece of scrap.

Where possible, everything is getting stainless hardware that I had from my previous restore or BoltDepot. I found the screws for the shelves at my local ACE.

Biggest problem I have is when I'm finished. I think I may have told my wife that I was going to sell it, because owning two gas grills would be crazy! Even if I wanted to, there's no way I could flip this to cover my costs, let alone the time spent restoring.

Finally, I went looking for that retro Weber grill out lights handle that Jon used on his amazing Skyline restore, but to no avail. I'll have to keep stalking eBay, because it looks great on is grill and I'd love to snag one.
 
Christopher. those handle grill out lights are getting to be very rare. I scored one last year and have yet to install it. I did convert it over to LED however. I am probably going to just put it on my personal grill.
 
because owning two gas grills would be crazy!

tB5hQQAl.jpg


I guess I need to be fitted for a straight jacket. :D
 
Biggest problem I have is when I'm finished. I think I may have told my wife that I was going to sell it, because owning two gas grills would be crazy! Even if I wanted to, there's no way I could flip this to cover my costs, let alone the time spent restoring.

TWO! Ah, c’mon, I think having four or five gas grills and at least that many charcoal devices is a reasonable balance:smilekettle:. My wife loves to ask me in front of friends exactly how many grills I currently have because she knows that I can’t even count them all:eek:!
 
Yah, I am glad I am able to part with a few that I do. You guys are pretty bad off. Home Depot would be envious.
 
Painted it and attached a new regulator using teflon tape.

Be careful using this or PTFE thread dope where it doesn't belong. If you have the 3/8" tapered type attachment using anything on the threads could CAUSE a leak.
 
Larry, I was going to ask you about that. I have the manifold for the E210 arriving today and it connects with a 3/8" flare. So, I guess I won't be using pipe dope on that. It didn't have any when I removed the original either.
 
Thanks for the advice Larry. I'll monitor and if any issues, remove the tape and reassemble.

Where's the best (cheapest) place to acquire new 8" wheels? Both of my restores have wheels that are extremely weathered.

I've include a few new pics of my progress. You can't see it, but I installed the new tank scale. The new unit with stickers looks great.

I need to hit the front of the firebox with another shot of matte black. Also, when I was attaching to the frame, I drill through the rest of that rusted bolt. It felt like victory. Used a little anti-seize and I've got the bolt flush to the frame.

Next on my to-do list is to cut wood and assemble my shelves. For bonus points, I may paint the kettle red. The logo came out great. Started with 120 and moved up to 320+.

https://photos.google.com/share/AF1...?key=UllLSzJLYXBHY2xLWVItejYyQkl4TzRPLTI5T1Rn

SiQw9Mg.jpg
 
Last edited:
Don't just "monitor" clean it off! Putting dope or tape on those fittings is bad and by the time your "monitoring" turns up an issue could be too late
 

 

Back
Top