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Thread: New Build: Not getting 5V or 3.3V

  1. #11
    TVWBB Honor Circle Bryan Mayland's Avatar
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    Huh, that's really strange then. You don't have a microdamper with the TRRS headphone jack cable do you? I know there can be issues if that cable is inserted while powered.

    There shouldn't be anything on MIS, but SCK should toggle very quickly (at 2MHz) every time the LCD updates, around once a second. The multimeter may or may not indicate it, since it goes pretty fast.
    I'm that HeaterMeter guy what ruins everybody's free time.

  2. #12
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    I re-read the SCK at more fine grain setting on the multimeter and I do see if toggling at a very low voltage (.01-.02).

    I also re-read everything on a fine grain setting:
    -MIS = sometimes floating around .04, sometimes constant .01
    -TXD = about .17
    -RXD = 3.3
    -SCK = toggling around .01
    -5V = both reading 5

    I've got an Adapt a Damp wired via CAT5 - haven't tested it yet and its not connected.
    Last edited by KevinL; 07-23-2019 at 08:00 AM.

  3. #13
    TVWBB Honor Circle Bryan Mayland's Avatar
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    Those all seem right, I can't imagine what could happen to have it do something terrible to the Pi. Is that with a pit probe plugged in / with it trying to run the blower? I'm at a loss as to what could happen, and that soldering all looks good apart from some long tails as you've mentioned. If you want to mail it to me to have a look at it and see if I can figure it out, I'd be happy to hook it up to the scope and look for anything unusual.
    I'm that HeaterMeter guy what ruins everybody's free time.

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bryan Mayland View Post
    Those all seem right, I can't imagine what could happen to have it do something terrible to the Pi. Is that with a pit probe plugged in / with it trying to run the blower? I'm at a loss as to what could happen, and that soldering all looks good apart from some long tails as you've mentioned. If you want to mail it to me to have a look at it and see if I can figure it out, I'd be happy to hook it up to the scope and look for anything unusual.
    The readings above are from just the baseboard only on 12V.

    I'm fairly certain the first Pi I matted incorrectly when not paying attention which fried it via 12V. That Pi gets quite warm on the main chip.

    What's weird about the second Pi - it worked by powering the whole HM via the USB. Next day it didn't work on either USB or 12V - it doesn't get warm/hot or make any weird noises like the other one did. Almost wondering if this second Pi just happened to die.

    Let me try another Pi and then mail it to you if that doesn't work (thanks for the offer thats amazing!). Lucky enough I have a Microcenter so Zeros are cheap to come by.

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by KevinL View Post
    ... Almost wondering if this second Pi just happened to die...
    Or maybe the HM file system or SD card got screwed up and no longer boots? I would try a new card freshly imaged.
    IDK if the zero w has any indicator LEDS? Power/Drive activity?
    You could also try plugging the pi into a USB on a computer and see if it is recognized? It should try to install new hardware BCM2708 or something pretty close to that. If you have plugged the pi into this computer previously you may need to watch the device manager to see if it is recognized (new hardware prompt only shows the first time you plug in) I wouldn't do this with the pi you smoked though, just the one that is unresponsive and doesn't get hot.
    Last edited by RalphTrimble; 07-23-2019 at 01:44 PM.
    I created the Roto Damper, RD3, HMv4.2 sliding back case, "air-burner" and the "ping-pong" valve in my quest for delicious "set and forget" BBQ.

  6. #16
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    I thought the same thing.

    Installed the image on a new SD card and got no activity lights. Nothing booted.

    Then as you said, I tired connecting the Pi via the USB to my computer (non power port) and the BCM device didn't show up.

  7. #17
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    Sorry you have no joy with your pi... If you solder in the headers yourself I suggest you only solder in the portion that is required for the HM (13 pairs starting on the SD slot end) This makes it harder to mate the pi improperly.
    I created the Roto Damper, RD3, HMv4.2 sliding back case, "air-burner" and the "ping-pong" valve in my quest for delicious "set and forget" BBQ.

  8. #18
    TVWBB Honor Circle Bryan Mayland's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RalphTrimble View Post
    You could also try plugging the pi into a USB on a computer and see if it is recognized? It should try to install new hardware BCM2708 or something pretty close to that.
    Wait, what? I was prepared to learn something new this morning since I'd never tried to plug a Pi into a computer since I assumed nothing would happen. I just tried two different models, a Zero and a Zero W and neither even made the windows Device Manager flicker (even back-powering it through the USB host port on the Pi). Are you sure this is the expected behavior? I know other SoCs do this, but I do not think the Pi does.

    The LED indicator on the Zeroes is somewhat weird in that it takes almost 2 seconds before it lights at all. If the SD card has the wrong image on it, it blinks twice and turns off. If it can't read the SD card properly or if no SD is inserted, it won't light up at all which makes it look dead. In both of those "no LED" cases, it pulls about 41mA on the 5V input. In the case of using the wrong image it pulls about 110mA.
    I'm that HeaterMeter guy what ruins everybody's free time.

  9. #19
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    I plugged my pi zero-w into my computer (windows 10 PRO), the first time the "installing new hardware" balloon popped up, after that it showed on the device manager when plugged in. Here is a screen shot of the device manager showing the entry for the pi zero-w. (BCM2708 Boot)



    I plugged in two different Pi Zero's and they both showed up the same way. I also plugged in a Model B and B+ but didn't see anything happen in the device manager. I found this information (indicating a pi zero-w would show up as new hardware in windows) while searching for ways to tell if a pi zero-w is dead.

    The LED's did light on the B and B+ but I did not see any LED's on the Zero W. Doing some research I find the LED's on the Zero W are a bit wonky, didn't work properly on the first release version but behaved better with more recent release versions. (not sure if this is due to hardware or firmware differences) No matter how long I left the zero-w plugged into the PC the LED's never came on (with no SD card installed). When I plugged the zero-w in with an SD card installed with a working copy of linkmeter one LED near the USB port did flash for a while, then went out. Ironically, after I plugged in the zero-w with the SD card attached it is no longer showing up in the device manager when plugged into the USB port near the edge of the board (the one I used while the SD card was attached), however, when I plug in the zero-w using the USB port toward the middle of the board (without SD card attached) it does show up on the Device Manager.... Goofy...
    Last edited by RalphTrimble; 07-24-2019 at 08:05 AM.
    I created the Roto Damper, RD3, HMv4.2 sliding back case, "air-burner" and the "ping-pong" valve in my quest for delicious "set and forget" BBQ.

  10. #20
    TVWBB Guru Steve_M's Avatar
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    You need to edit config.txt to enable gadget mode for it to be seen over USB as a device.

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