New Member, New Genesis 1000 Rehab


 
J

John Kar

New member
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Here is my 1999 Genesis 1000/1000LX that I’ve decided to rehab. When I got the grill, it had a NG manifold and hose installed. I was also given the LP manifold and 2 sets of Weber manuals. One is for a Genesis 1000 LP and the other is for a Genesis 1000 LX NG. The frame has the fuel level sticker on it but no tank panel assembly or fuel scale. I installed the LP manifold for use at camp so I’m going to call it a 1000 so it matches the manual. The sticker on the side of the control panel is completely white and no information can be read.

From what I can tell, the only difference between the 1000 and the 1000 LX are the Durawood slats on the bottom (and possibly the work table). Is this correct? The swing table has wood slats.
When the 1000 LX was originally made, was the bottom Durawood platform 1 piece or 2 separate sections like this grill? I would like to make it as close to original as possible. I plan on replacing the Durawood with cedar so If I need to order new Z-bar brackets from RCPLANBUYER that’s ok.

The frame has no visible rust, but I plan on removing the firebox to check the area along the left side and plan on spraying the inside of the frame with Eastwood Rust Encapsulator. Should I break the frame down into its individual parts? Or am I just asking for trouble? Since I am going to have the everything stripped off the frame, I plan on painting it. What to you do with the fuel scale gauge? I can only assume that they are not available anywhere.

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The FBs are stainless steel and are in excellent shape so they will just get a good cleaning. The burners are in decent shape, but I will know better when I pull them out and clean them up.
I see that may people remove the lid end caps to clean and paint them. Is this something that you would recommend? And if so, do you also recommend putting Hi-Temp silicone sealant along the seams when re-assembling?

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New knobs, ignitor button, and regulator/hose will be included as well.

Is there anything else I need to consider or check while I am working on this project?
 
Way to much going on there for me to mention while eating lunch, but removing, cleaning, and repainting
endcaps with hi-temp paint is easy, and a must on a quality resto. Also, why are you replacing the knobs?
They look to be good. Degreaser and an overnight in a little bleach and water will have them looking new.

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Oh yea, welcome to the board.
 
Looks like a good project! Welcome to the board.
1. Take your time, 2. Have a plan and 3. Use quality materials. Yes, LX means Durawood slats and the bottom has two sections.
One of our members, Joel Young I believe, has made templates for LP gas gauge and one for the warning on the mechanical tank scale (which I dont think you have?) His templates are in a sticky at the top of this Gas Grills Forum (parts).
The parts to hold the tank etc can be bought, probably right here on this forum, for cheap.
Good Luck!

PS - Review the "Stickys" at the start of this section for parts sources and restoration guide. Take Pictures!
 
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No, the frame is welded for the most part and you don't want to disassemble it. Just remove everything from it, clean it up and if necessary sand any rust. Then repaint it. You should be able to find a replacement tank scale/bracket pretty easily. I am pretty sure I have a spare, but I cannot really get to them for about a month. Others probably have a spare or two for a Genesis 1000.
 
John,
Welcome to the board! Send me a private message. I can help you with a fuel gauge label.
 
Dave in KC said:
Way to much going on there for me to mention while eating lunch, but removing, cleaning, and repainting
endcaps with hi-temp paint is easy, and a must on a quality resto. Also, why are you replacing the knobs?
They look to be good. Degreaser and an overnight in a little bleach and water will have them looking new.
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I was considering replacing them because they appear to have UV damage. I'll give your method a try along with a soft bristle brush. Has anyone ever tried a clearcoat to help prevent dirt from getting trapped in the rough surface?
 
TonyS T-Bone said:
Looks like a good project! Welcome to the board.
1. Take your time, 2. Have a plan and 3. Use quality materials. Yes, LX means Durawood slats and the bottom has two sections.
One of our members, Joel Young I believe, has made templates for LP gas gauge and one for the warning on the mechanical tank scale (which I dont think you have?) His templates are in a sticky at the top of this Gas Grills Forum (parts).
The parts to hold the tank etc can be bought, probably right here on this forum, for cheap.
Good Luck!

PS - Review the "Stickys" at the start of this section for parts sources and restoration guide. Take Pictures!
Click to expand...

I am trying to lay out my plan before I get started, that's why the questions up front. Since the bottom of the grill was originally made in two sections I will just remove the Durawood and clean up the brackets. Only one has some significant rust so I should be able to restore it.

I've spend hours/days going through the "Stickys" and older posts and have learned a lot. This Forum is amazing with the amount of knowledge/experience that it's members have. I just hope that some day I can add to it.
 
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John: Make sure you use a high temp paint on the frame in the areas that are in close proximity to the cook box. Regular rattle can paint will not hold up. A lot of people use Rustoleum High Heat Ultra gloss black or the Krylon version of High Heat.

Also, if you plan to repaint lid end caps and the cook box, you will want to use High Heat there as well. I would make sure that whatever you use, it is rated for 1200 degrees plus. Minimum of 1000 for sure. Most use the flat black on the cook box. You can find it in any Walmart, Home Depot, Lowes, and most hardware stores.
 
Bruce said:
No, the frame is welded for the most part and you don't want to disassemble it. Just remove everything from it, clean it up and if necessary sand any rust. Then repaint it. You should be able to find a replacement tank scale/bracket pretty easily. I am pretty sure I have a spare, but I cannot really get to them for about a month. Others probably have a spare or two for a Genesis 1000.
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Since you don't recommend disassembling the frame, I will just spray as much of the interior of the frame as I can with the Rust Encapsulator and sand/paint the exterior. As far as the tank scale/bracket, I have someone locally that may have one but If not, I may give you a shout. Thanks.
 
Bruce said:
John: Make sure you use a high temp paint on the frame in the areas that are in close proximity to the cook box. Regular rattle can paint will not hold up. A lot of people use Rustoleum High Heat Ultra gloss black or the Krylon version of High Heat.

Also, if you plan to repaint lid end caps and the cook box, you will want to use High Heat there as well. I would make sure that whatever you use, it is rated for 1200 degrees plus. Minimum of 1000 for sure. Most use the flat black on the cook box. You can find it in any Walmart, Home Depot, Lowes, and most hardware stores.
Click to expand...

Is it okay to use the High Heat on the entire frame or am I better off using a standard paint on the frame that is not near the cook box?
 
John Kar said:
I was considering replacing them because they appear to have UV damage. I'll give your method a try along with a soft bristle brush. Has anyone ever tried a clearcoat to help prevent dirt from getting trapped in the rough surface?
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On my 1000 prior to rehab the knobs looked just like yours. No amount of cleaning would get them completely clean and they were in fact brittle. I'm assuming from sheer age and UV damage. I ended up replacing all three of mine and the igniter switch
 
John Kar said:
Is it okay to use the High Heat on the entire frame or am I better off using a standard paint on the frame that is not near the cook box?
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EIther way is OK. Two reasons that I use the regular on the rest of the frame is that it is less expensive and it is a little more glossy than the high heat. But doing the whole frame with High heat is perfectly fine. Especially if it is a one time deal. I rehab webers and any way to save a few bucks helps over the coarse of a summer.
 
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You can paint the knobs and the igniter I used Rusto Satin Stone Grey pretty close to what the original was. I soaked them in bleach then painted them been on the grill for about a year and a half did not clear coat them forgot. I will take a picture of them tomorrow will pull them off in the spring respray if necessary then clear coat looks way better than the faded knobs without buying new ones.

Same thing I did with the wheels which I think look quite nice. Not sure what everyone is worried about painting this stuff if you use the proper paint, Jon had a problem with his knobs I have not had that problem. This paint needs to cure for 7 days as most all of them do.
 
I still think painting plastic parts is a viable option. Brian says it well about waiting long enough for it to cure. I also agree that a clear coat would help. I failed to do that on my knob. The only problem was just a thin edge that was rubbed continuously by the cover. (I finally just used a black Sharpie to touch up that little flaw:eek:.)

For something like the wheels I don't see any issue at all. If you've seen what Brian has done I think you will agree the results are really strong. Can't be matched when they are very old/faded by just using trim restorer. I plan to try Brian's method out after my lousy tax season:p is over.
 
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What do you guys think about painting knobs for rehabs. I am worried new owners won't be real careful with the knobs and the paint will chip or rub off and look pretty nasty. I can't really expect them to break out a sharpie for touch ups.
 
Bruce said:
What do you guys think about painting knobs for rehabs. I am worried new owners won't be real careful with the knobs and the paint will chip or rub off and look pretty nasty. I can't really expect them to break out a sharpie for touch ups.
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Really not sure what to worry about it will greatly help the appearance. Like I said above its all about letting the paint cure, a few coats of satin paint and a few coats of clear 10 days later really think you should be good. The wheels were done that way the clear was not applied till they sat 10 days later.

With the amount of grills you do could do 4 or 5 sets of wheels assembly line with a bunch of knobs and and igniters have a supply ready to go.
 
I am going to consider that for this coming rehab season. Knobs and end caps that are in good shape, I will just clean up, but I am probably going to wind up painting some as well.
 
Bruce said:
What do you guys think about painting knobs for rehabs. I am worried new owners won't be real careful with the knobs and the paint will chip or rub off and look pretty nasty. I can't really expect them to break out a sharpie for touch ups.
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I just finished restoring my 2013 Spirit S-210 and I painted the chrome plastic inserts with black gloss spray paint. I painted the little red kettle logo red with some acrylic hobby paint and then clear coated them with water based polyurethane.
 
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