Heater Meter Newbie Help


 

Scotty "V"

New member
I am looking to go the Heater Meter route for my Large BGE. I would welcome suggestions on which hardware should I buy.
I want to go with the 4.3 version.
I plan to have it in a wifi environment (dual band 2.4 & 5.0) and will not require wired ethernet. Therefore, am I correct that I need to get the Pi Zero W?

Thanks in advance
 
Ok great. I am assuming that I will not need to get a wireless adapter since it is integrated into the PI.
So the only parts I need to order is the HM 4.3 kit, the Pi Zero W, an SD card, power supply and a case?
I about forgot, the 1x40 Pin Male Pin Header also
 
Ok great. I am assuming that I will not need to get a wireless adapter since it is integrated into the PI.
So the only parts I need to order is the HM 4.3 kit, the Pi Zero W, an SD card, power supply and a case?
I about forgot, the 1x40 Pin Male Pin Header also

The pi zero w comes with header installed from adafruit for $4 more...

Also lan cable, probes, blower, damper
 
What brand of probes are recommended?

I hate to say it but there's a page on the wiki that can explain it far better than I can. It really depends on what you're wanting to pay. And do you have the thermocouple option. The thermoworks pro thermistor probe or the ET 72/73 probes are good choices. The thermoworks thermocouple that suitable is kind of pricey it's $50. There's a cheaper options just depends on what you want, and sometimes where you work haha.
 
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Should I get the kit with or without the thermocouple? I plan to use the HM for low & slow cooks.
 
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I think you would be happier with the thermocouple. It is more durable. The thermistors are protected by the meat. Eventually you will get a flame up and it will burn out the pit probe if it is a thermistor. The thermocouple has a better chance of survival. The down side is you have to stock two different spare parts.
Joe Widmayer
 
I second the TC decision, mainly because of the high heat tolerance and durability of the TC compared to a standard probes. I do use the HM for medium and high heat cooks as much or more than for low and slow, and killed too many standard pit probes along the way. The first TC I purchased is still working years later! TC's can also be cheaper, and there is a huge variety to choose from.
 
Hmmmm. Just wondering if it is worth the added expense. Thinking about just inserting a probe in place of the dome thermometer to monitor the pit temp. According to HM, this is more accurate than attaching to the grate
 
You can do that with a standard probe, no problem. If all you do is low and slow this may work out fine. Water could be your remaining enemy, the maverick probes I have used (I killed LOTS) died primarily from heat or water, mostly water. Thermoworks probes seem to be more water resistant, though they can still be killed by moisture and are even more susceptible to heat. Thermocouples on the other hand are more rugged in general, and are available in countless varieties from very cheap to expensive.
If you go without the TC and find you standard probes are not surviving long term you can get an aux thermocouple board to add a TC pit probe to your HM. You could add the SMD parts on the HM board after the fact I guess, but seems like that would be more difficult with all the other components there already.
The other factor in this is the TC amp chip seems to be on long term backorder right now, so getting one from Bryan now would be making sure you get one at all. There are some little TC boards available for really cheap posted in a recent thread, might be a viable cheap option though I havent tried it myself.
 
Hmmmm. Just wondering if it is worth the added expense. Thinking about just inserting a probe in place of the dome thermometer to monitor the pit temp. According to HM, this is more accurate than attaching to the grate

I wouldnt agree with that statement.

A lot of things affect what dome reads. Sometimes it reads higher than grate, sometimes lower. There is hot air currents moving inside, especially up walls, since there is a deflector that forces it to the wall. A lot depends on proximity to 10 lb hunk of 40 degree meat.

What im interested in, is the environment the hunk of meat sees, and that means being reasonably close to it. But not too close. And don't accidentally touch it by shifting meat when put lid on. Going full blast....why cant my pit get over 200? Been there, figured it out quick
 
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Ok. My intention is to use a Thermoworks probe thru the thermometer hole in the BGE dome. The probe is long enough that I can put it close to the meat or a little deeper into the cooking area without touching the meat itself. Wouldn't this give me a more accurate reading since it is more in the cook zone?
 
Ok. My intention is to use a Thermoworks probe thru the thermometer hole in the BGE dome. The probe is long enough that I can put it close to the meat or a little deeper into the cooking area without touching the meat itself. Wouldn't this give me a more accurate reading since it is more in the cook zone?

Didnt realize you had bge, but i like to be about 2" from meat.

Put your hand 2" above a 10 lb block of ice
Put a fire under it
Does your hand feel the fire or still cool?

Thats the problem measuring temp in a cooker. It gets better as meat cooks and get hot, especially at low 225 temp. Fortunately, accuracy doesnt really matter.

I would rather be close to meat on grate, than above it, as you may not see the temp bottom of meat is exposed to. Ive put 2 probes in and measured substantially higher temps an inch below grate than on it. Again, fortunately it really doesnt matter. For most part its just a question of time.
 
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Don't know if you ordered the probes yet but pay attention to the temp rating of the probe and also the CABLE. I melted the seal on my thermo works thermocouple probe rated about 550 and cable 220 degrees
 

 

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