Questions about Broilmaster


 

Jay D in Jersey

TVWBB Wizard
My 2013 Spirit S-210 is starting t really show what the beach environment can do to even a reasonably well maintained grill. The hood and box are OK... Nothing I couldn't clean up with BKF and some high temp paint... It's the base, sides and door. Enamel coated sheet metal can't survive long in the salt air. Internals don't fair too badly compared to other locations but the base and side structures are starting to go. Sooo... I see a 2-3 year old Broilmaster H series on CL. $200 OBO...
I will need to convert to NG. I believe I just need to buy the NG valve(s) and the quick disconnect hose. Does that sound right?
Burner is the same for LP and NG.
I think the BROILMASTER ... as humdrum as it looks, will hang out way better 30 yards from the bay than anything Weber has to offer.
Thoughts??
 
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On a Broilmaster no need to change valves. Just the orifice hoods. They have adjustable valves to help make sure the flames are correct at low setting. Inside the valve stem there is an adjustment screw.
 
Any suggestions on where to get a NG quick connect hose? I'm pretty sure the disconnect is 3/8 on the wall stub out. What is the size of the gas inlet going into the valve assembly? In other words does a Broilmaster use the same quick connect as a Weber NG?
 
If not too far gone already, treat the rust then clear coat the lower cabinet. Total out of pocket would be under $50
 
If not too far gone already, treat the rust then clear coat the lower cabinet. Total out of pocket would be under $50

I already tried that. I went after the rust with a cup brush on an angle grinder and then sprayed the cabinet with gray enamel. It's a useless battle.
 
Regarding how long a broilmaster would last in a coastal environment I think it would depend on the model of broilmaster. I'm no expert on their stuff but I know some of their carts/bases are stainless and some are painted steel. If you got one with the normal cast aluminium firebox, stainless shelves and stainless base and knowing broilmaster (unlike broil king) uses high grade stainless I would think that grill would be almost bullet proof.

The painted steel version would probably be much less durable in the salt air and comparable to a weber. Maybe a little better due to the steel being thicker.
 
I agree with Greg. The ones with the stainless and plastic bottoms are pretty hardy. I got one from a guy who left it uncovered in pieces in his yard here in humid, salt air South Florida. They were easily restorable and the stainless (high grade) had no rust, just stains.

That is not to say that the elements won't make even a tough grill look ugly over time. Pitting, fading, etc.

On the Broilmaster, the ignitor seems to be one of the weak points. It is so simple to start one of these with a lighter. They have holes on both sides, so you can't miss. They work like a charm. So, an ignitor is cool but not really very essential. I would say getting the stainless bar grates (very nice, thick 304) is probably your most important thing to look for. If the one you got has those, with some patient work you can make them look almost new again.

If you need any parts, please let me know. I have a few leftovers that might help. I am sure I can do better than eBay and all the parts places.
 
BM carts in SS are extremely good. Very thick steel. I broke two 1/4 drill bits trying to add three extra holes for bottom support. They will last a long time.
 
I want to thank all for the input. I decided to pass on this BM. Although I think it was a newer model with a stainless support post and plastic base. It was not very close by and I do see BMs show up on Craigslist somewhat frequently. I may revisit restoring the base of the S-210...I know I can get another 1-2 years without doing anything. Plus I have a small inventory of spare parts for the Spirit as we have one in our primary home as well...starter, burner tubes and I just replaced the Flavorizors with pretty heavy duty SS ones. In fact, being honest with myself, if I put 3 hours and about $25 into the S-210....I'd have a keeper for years to come.
 
I want to thank all for the input. I decided to pass on this BM. Although I think it was a newer model with a stainless support post and plastic base. It was not very close by and I do see BMs show up on Craigslist somewhat frequently. I may revisit restoring the base of the S-210...I know I can get another 1-2 years without doing anything. Plus I have a small inventory of spare parts for the Spirit as we have one in our primary home as well...starter, burner tubes and I just replaced the Flavorizors with pretty heavy duty SS ones. In fact, being honest with myself, if I put 3 hours and about $25 into the S-210....I'd have a keeper for years to come.

Jay,

That's as good a plan as you are going to get. We all love to see old Webers get a new lease on life!

It is interesting that you see Broilmasters fairly often. Seldom see them here in Florida, and others in some other parts of the country say the same. When they do come up, though, they are often underpriced, however. I think a lot of people don't recognize the brand. (I didn't until recently.) Since they look like old 1970s grills, people will sometimes sell cheap.
 
Jay,

That's as good a plan as you are going to get. We all love to see old Webers get a new lease on life!

It is interesting that you see Broilmasters fairly often. Seldom see them here in Florida, and others in some other parts of the country say the same. When they do come up, though, they are often underpriced, however. I think a lot of people don't recognize the brand. (I didn't until recently.) Since they look like old 1970s grills, people will sometimes sell cheap.

Thanks Jon. Size is a small concern too...real estate on our deck at the beach house is at a premium... The S-210 does occupy less space. I think my HF angle grinder, a can of Rustoleum primer and a can of gloss gray, some stainless sheet metal screws and some forms of light duty angle iron and I'll have the Weber G2G😀!!
 
Get some PO15 on that bad steel than do a zinc phosphate primer and good top coat. It will be fine
 

 

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