Best degreaser and how to get dull scuff marks off Genesis Silver B hood?


 
S

Stephen V

New member
When I've had the time I've been restoring a Genesis Silver B grill. I have it completely apart now. The end caps were difficult to remove because of spinning bolts but using a screwdriver as a wedge on the outside heads worked like a charm. One bolt holding the firebox to the upper frame was horrible to get out -- I had to cut it off.

I scrubbed the grill parts with ZEP degreaser I'd gotten from Home Depot, but it doesn't seem to work well in getting all the grease off. Any ideas on a better degreaser or degreasing method? I'd like to repaint the frame, firebox and endcaps.

I'm embarrassed to admit that in a moment of thoughtlessness I'd used some 320-grit sand paper on the top of the black porcelain hood and it left some dull scuff marks. How can I make the hood enamel shine again?

Thanks for reading my questions.
 
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Stephen V said:
I'm embarrassed to admit that in a moment of thoughtlessness I'd used some 320-grit sand paper on the top of the black porcelain hood and it left some dull scuff marks. How can I make the hood enamel shine again?
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Sadly you cannot. You can try using any type of glass polishing compound because that is literally what porcelain is. Fused glass. You may find it easier to find a donor grill willing to sacrifice it's head for the greater good
 
Stephen V said:
When I've had the time I've been restoring a Genesis Silver B grill. I have it completely apart now. The end caps were difficult to remove because of spinning bolts but using a screwdriver as a wedge on the outside heads worked like a charm. One bolt holding the firebox to the upper frame was horrible to get out -- I had to cut it off.

I scrubbed the grill parts with ZEP degreaser I'd gotten from Home Depot, but it doesn't seem to work well in getting all the grease off. Any ideas on a better degreaser or degreasing method? I'd like to repaint the frame, firebox and endcaps.

I'm embarrassed to admit that in a moment of thoughtlessness I'd used some 320-grit sand paper on the top of the black porcelain hood and it left some dull scuff marks. How can I make the hood enamel shine again?

Thanks for reading my questions.
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Hi Stephen,

Welcome to TVWBB forum! My wife's family is actually from the southwest suburbs of Chicago, and my father-in-law was a pastor for many years just a couple blocks from Midway Airport.

On the de-greaser question, my go to is usually Simple Green, but some situations are beyond that. I hate messing with Easy Off or equivalent oven cleaners but they can sometimes help as long as you don't breathe those dangerous fumes:mad:!

Some members have been having great results with Dawn Power Dissolver. Don't get tricked by similar names on cheaper stuff. Here is the real product on Amazon; it is expensive but the real deal. You can do some searching on this forum for member testimonials of some pretty incredible results:

https://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B01F2EE88S/tvwb-20

Ultimately, to get a firebox or the insides of the side pieces of the hood TOTALLY clean and back to raw aluminum you will most likely have to resort to what others of us here do: Get a 4 inch angle grinder (cheap options abound at Harbor Freight), buy some wire cup brushes, get some eye, ear and breathing safety stuff and wire brush it all off. Check out some posts by Bruce and you will see some of his beautiful results. Not too long ago I did a comparison thread on angle grinders that you might find helpful:

https://tvwbb.com/showthread.php?75152-Angles-on-Angle-Grinders&highlight=angle+grinders

It all depends on how much you want to put into it. If the grill is just for your own use, you really DON'T need to do all that wire brushing. The grill will be back to "seasoned" in just a couple uses. Those of us who refurbish grills for resale do this because many buyers are sold when they see the inside of a grill look almost brand new.

On the disassembly issues you had, they are all pretty common and to be expected. You generally have to replace some of the hardware and treating the frame with rust converter is often needed.

Don't feel too bad about the hood, although I agree with Larry that you probably will not be able to get it back. His glass compounding idea I suppose is worth a try.

Most of all, HAVE FUN working on your grill and then USE IT or MAKE MONEY ON IT!:cool:
 
The biggest thing I see is the huge number of people that decide to use sandpaper on glass! Yes ENAMEL IS GLASS! Would you use sandpaper on your windshield? I’m lucky, I worked with a glass company for some years, married a woman who loves enamel work in Chinese vintage cloisonné as well as lampwork beads. You learn from some interesting sources.

Patience is really the key, surfactants like Dawn, or the product mentioned from Amazon, Simple green, etc. will do a great deal to cut the scum. The truly interesting part is the combination of soapy water and 4x0 steel wool does not leave the scratching effect as long as you don’t just grind the life out of the process.

I do not mean to scold or chastise but, a little thought before going to an extreme can make life a little let frustrating.
Getting off my soap box now.

Also, when you get ready to paint, remember don’t paint the inside of the firebox or endcaps!
 
Tim,

Thanks for mentioning the 0000 steel wool! I forgot about including that:eek: and, of course, Simple Green, etc. won't do nearly as much without it.
 
I think simple green is a wonderful product. I you buy the concentrate you can use it at different concentrations for different jobs. It's very cost effective and effective.
 
Thanks for all the helpful comments, I really appreciate it. As far as my mistake with the hood, I'm going to polish it up with Simple Green and 0000 steel wool and not expect any miracles in the appearance there. I own that mistake and I hope my question on this forum stops anyone else from doing it. My biggest priorities are a solid functional grill for lots of delicious cooking. It has been fun taking the grill apart and fixing it up so far.
 
Jon Tofte said:
On the disassembly issues you had, they are all pretty common and to be expected. You generally have to replace some of the hardware and treating the frame with rust converter is often needed.:cool:
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Hi Jon, thank you for your encouraging comments.

I got some Rustoleum Rust Reformer but now I've discovered that it's a rust encapsulator and does not actually convert the iron oxide itself. What rust converter do you recommend for what appears to be mostly superficial rust around the bolt holes? The frame is in generally good shape so I'm thinking what I'll do is -- (1) sand the entire frame with some 400-grit sandpaper with a little more attention to the light areas of rust and (2) then hit only those areas of rust and not the entire frame with rust converter. Does this seem correct?

Is there any issue with the grill temperature affecting the rust converter I use?

Should I apply high heat primer to the frame, firebox and endcaps before applying the high heat Rustoleum Ultra paint?

Thanks for entertaining my many questions!
 
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Stephen look for the many posts we've discussed using products (high end products not dept store stuff like Rustoleum). They have trade names such as POR15, and also Eastwood. The Rustoleum you speak of is not god at much of anything. I am partial to Eastwood products simply because they can be had in aerosol and also with a 360 degree extension nozzle. I have used their products on cars with pretty severe rust issues and the stuff stops it dead
 
Dave in KC said:
Would be nice to find a local source for this product, or to offer free shipping.
Amazon does not show this being available.
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They are very reasonable with shipping, and many times free. It's an outstanding product and not sure why anyone would discount it simply because Amazon doesn't sell it. IMO kinda foolish to thumb one's nose at a wonderful product simply because they choose not to distribute it through Amazon
 
LMichaels said:
They are very reasonable with shipping, and many times free. It's an outstanding product and not sure why anyone would discount it simply because Amazon doesn't sell it. IMO kinda foolish to thumb one's nose at a wonderful product simply because they choose not to distribute it through Amazon
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Its ALL about the shipping. I just went to order 2 cans and have shipped. About $26 bucks for the product (not a deal breaker)
but then another $15 to ship. (DEAL BREAKER) I saw the mention of free shipping and called the 800 number. The gal said "NO"
not on that product. Then added they are out of it anyways. On most items, esp legs and braces for Gennies and Performers, I
can order brand new tubing and make my own for cheaper than one can of that product. Not saying its not good product, but
for me, brand new is better than covering up old rust, and cheaper also. Its also all about the bottom line. Tough enough to make
a decent profit as it is. An extra $5 or $10 starts really adding up.
 
Sure on a grill better to just make new ones. I use it on cars and it's top notch. Well worth the cost of product plus shipping
 
Yah, I have purchased a couple times direct from them. The shipping does make it expensive. If you sand or grind off most of the rust, then rust encapsulator will work fine. That is what I use most of the time....kind of like a primer on areas where I did grind off rust. The Rustoleum stuff is only about $5 a can.
 
Bruce said:
Yah, I have purchased a couple times direct from them. The shipping does make it expensive. If you sand or grind off most of the rust, then rust encapsulator will work fine. That is what I use most of the time....kind of like a primer on areas where I did grind off rust. The Rustoleum stuff is only about $5 a can.
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Just remember you get what you pay for
 
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