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Thread: KitchenAid Professional 5 Plus Mixer

  1. #31
    TVWBB Emerald Member LMichaels's Avatar
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    I honestly don't know. IMO the source of almost all KA break downs are caused by inferior lubrication. Re, the chrome ring. The sole purpose of that ring is to catch leaking grease (other than to dress up the lower unit). I only use the EP (Extreme Pressure) moly based lubes on the larger frame machines as there is no risk of it leaking out. For the other machines I use a synthetic Teflon based lube. VERY expensive and does not yield much. I only get 2 machines per container at $25 per container. So it cuts into my profit margin a little. The moly based EP is a much more durable lube and only about $5.00. But it's also a little less viscous and I don't risk it in the other machines.

  2. #32
    TVWBB Wizard Rusty James's Avatar
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    This is gear number 9706529, and you can see it has quite a bit of wear on it.

    For what it's worth, this gear has carbon steel in it (a magnet stuck to it), but replacement gears look like they're made of bronze / brass? Are there any with carbon steel left for this part number, or has KitchenAid revised the material?



    You can really see the concave gouge in this image...



    This is gear number 9703337, and if you notice closely, you can see some wear on one side. I was going to ignore it, but it probably needs replacing?



    One question about the worm gear bearing, are the concave washers identical, and does it matter if the bearing faces fore or aft?



    This image shows the reverse side of the bearing...



    The worm gear looks good to the best of my knowledge, although the sides of the teeth (large diameter gear) feel sharp like they need a bit of deburring.



    Another shot of the worm gear...



    Everything else looks good to me. I mic'd the planetary shaft, and there may have been .001 to .002 difference along the length of the shaft with the wear coming in the middle area of the shaft. I disassembled the whole head (removed the motor, cord, and control panel) so I can take it (lower part of the head assembly) to a local mechanic's parts washer tomorrow.

    Not really the fuss I thought was going to be (I'd give the job a three-wrench rating), but I'll know more when I start to reassemble it all after I order the parts - wherever that may be from. I wonder if the local appliance repair stores carry such inventory?

    Check this out...

    https://www.searspartsdirect.com/par.../0011/665.html

    It's made out of brass, though, and it is an aftermarket part...

    Last edited by Rusty James; 08-10-2018 at 12:04 AM.
    18.5", 18.5", 14.5", Royal Oak Lump / Royal Oak All Natural Briquettes, Blue Genesis Silver C

  3. #33
    TVWBB Emerald Member LMichaels's Avatar
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    That photo from Sears PD does not show the same gear that fits the machine you have. The gear failures you're seeing are due to 2 reasons. Primarily lubrication failure and it also looks like the machine may have been run a lot with the accessory drive cap either removed or open with a lot of flour in the area getting into the front hub bearing. I have seen this a lot. Check the large bearing in the front portion of the upper gear box. If it's scored replace it and the accessory drive gear.
    It is normal for the worm gear to have sharp edges on it. Examine the teeth very closely I use a magnifier to look for slightly chipped teeth (but than I am old and have bad eye sight so I need cheaters). Odds are it will be fine but be aware the slightest imperfection in those fine teeth will cause the machine to make a snapping noise under heavy load. As for the little ball bearing assembly it does not matter which collar goes where as long as the concave side is facing the actual bearings. Check for slop in the sleeve bearing that is shrink fit into the lower gear housing. I don't have an exact measurement to give you. I just put the shaft in to see if it "feels right". If the shaft wobbles excessively it can cause excessive wear in the gears and a loud snapping noise also.
    As for replacing the follower and the hub drive gear yes absolutely do so.
    Be sure to fill the gear chamber back up with high quality "EP" (extreme pressure) grease and it should be golden and you should be making things again

  4. #34
    TVWBB Wizard Rusty James's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by LMichaels View Post
    That photo from Sears PD does not show the same gear that fits the machine you have.
    Say it's not the same gear?

    KitchenAid gave me a link to the parts list, but they said the model number I gave them was missing a character. Looks like my unit should be KV250XWW(4) (white on white)? The photo I posted (earlier in this thread) of the model number had no extra character at the end.

    KV25G0XWW4 (White on White)
    KV25G0XWH4 (White)
    KV25G0XBU4 (Cobalt Blue)
    KV25G0XCV4 (Caviar)
    KV25G0XCY4 (Bing Cherry)
    KV25G0XER4 (Empire Red)
    KV25G0XGR4 (Imperial Grey)
    KV25G0XMC4 (Metallic Chrome)
    KV25G0XOB4 (Onyx Black)
    KV25G0XBW4 (Blue Willow)
    KV25G0XGC4 (Gloss Cinnamon)



    Anyway, the Sears part I linked to is listed as 9706529 (Worm Gear Follower) in the parts list. Here's a Google search listing for 9706259: https://www.google.com/search?source....0.awY1-iHpjGo


    EDIT:
    Quote Originally Posted by LMichaels View Post
    The gear failures you're seeing are due to 2 reasons. Primarily lubrication failure and it also looks like the machine may have been run a lot with the accessory drive cap either removed or open with a lot of flour in the area getting into the front hub bearing. I have seen this a lot. Check the large bearing in the front portion of the upper gear box. If it's scored replace it and the accessory drive gear.
    As far as I can tell (with a magnifying glass and bright light), the sleeve bearing looks smooth, and I will replace the accessory drive gear, too, along with the worm follower gear, and the bevel gear above it. Not sure if the previous owner left the accessory door open or not, but they did make a lot of cookies for the kids over the past 5+ years. The gear box could've used more grease too.

    The drawing below shows the worn parts in need of replacement, although the accessory gear isn't that bad, but I can get it, and the bevel gear, in a kit from here.



    EDIT (2): Part #34 (67500−55, O-ring) seems to be missing on our mixer. There is no groove on the shaft to accept one either, so I don't know how this is supposed to fit. Is this a critical part, and do you omit this O-ring on your rebuilds of this type? Looks like a 1/2" O-ring from the hardware store would suffice.
    Last edited by Rusty James; 08-10-2018 at 06:58 PM.
    18.5", 18.5", 14.5", Royal Oak Lump / Royal Oak All Natural Briquettes, Blue Genesis Silver C

  5. #35
    TVWBB Emerald Member LMichaels's Avatar
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    The gear is correct, sorry my bad lack of sleep, bad glasses and stress. As the pair of gears great price and best way to go to get in a pair. As for the O Ring it should be in a very tiny little groove on the shaft. There to keep grease from coming out into the planetary and spilling out. I have seen the machines both ways. The ones with the O Ring I can tell you a standard hardware store O-Ring will be too thick. The one on the machines is very thin. But look for a VERY fine groove I am enclosing a photo of one. I think in newer machines it was superseded to non ring. What is your serial number? I can give you the date and plant where it was made from that should help you.
    Here is a photo of how a shaft would look with an ORing


    Look for excessive play in the main shaft where the arrow points to item 16. This is not a replaceable part it is a shrink fit bearing in the lower gear housing. On a couple occasions I have seen this bearing come loose from the main housing causing the planetary to walk all over and it just tears everything up. If you have any doubt about it spring for the lower housing. or let me know I think I have a white lower housing I can sell you. Also be aware a couple times I have seen item 25 in the planetary fail, and item 12 the gear literally punch a hole in the lower housing. Pay careful attention to that area.

  6. #36
    TVWBB Wizard Rusty James's Avatar
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    Here's some shots of the planetary assembly...







    Try as I might, I cannot find even the tiniest of groves for an O-ring to fit into other than the groove for the snap ring (part 25, in the diagram I posted earlier) above the pin hole. Maybe this model is one of those units that omitted the O-ring (as you previously mentioned). A vernier caliper could not locate an O-ring groove either.

    The serial number of this unit is: WR5059395

    Getting back to the images, the planetary assembly is the only part I have not disassembled yet, and it's not much cleaner, now, than it was when I first removed it from the mixer housing - meaning that not much grease leaked into the planetary to begin with.

    EDIT:
    Quote Originally Posted by Rusty James View Post
    I mic'd the planetary shaft, and there may have been .001 to .002 difference along the length of the shaft with the wear coming in the middle area of the shaft.
    I beg your pardon, I meant to say I used a vernier calipers to make these measurements with, but I did recheck the shaft with a micrometer, and the shaft uniformly measures .498" OD from top to bottom with some variation in the tenths range (.0000). The pressed-in sleeve bearing that the shaft fits into measures at .500" so there is not much room for play.
    Last edited by Rusty James; 08-11-2018 at 12:53 PM.
    18.5", 18.5", 14.5", Royal Oak Lump / Royal Oak All Natural Briquettes, Blue Genesis Silver C

  7. #37
    TVWBB Emerald Member LMichaels's Avatar
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    Yeah you should be good

    Your machine was made in Greenville OH, 2004 in late December so at least you know that much. The Sears PD part is not an aftermarket part it is a running change of the OEM part. Though Sears PD shows it as unavailable. I have never used them as I don't trust anything with the name "Sears" any more.
    The shaft is showing a little "scuffing" but to be expected with the bad grease KA uses. These machines put a LOT of stress on on those internal parts due to the design. They also do not hold as much grease as the other design so grease quality becomes paramount for durability especially if you make a lot if heavy mixes i,e, bread/pizza dough etc. If you use it only to make light batters and whipped toppings not so critical.
    Disassemble that beater shaft on the planetary and pay attention to the snap ring on the beater side to be sure it has not come loose allowing the shaft to walk upward under load and punch through the lower gear box. You can clean it well (use only a dry cloth on the bushing) and you can put a very tiny amount of grease on the shaft prior to assembly. Too much will attract dirt. Put a bit of grease on the planetary ring gear also not a sloppy amount but a decent amount
    Looks like it should go well

  8. #38
    TVWBB Wizard Rusty James's Avatar
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    Thanks! I'll followup on your last post in detail later, but I was wondering if you have ever tried this grease...

    https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=as_li_s...language=en_US

    Comments from various web sites relating to KA mixers say this lube is better than the stuff KitchenAid uses. Have you ever tried it?
    18.5", 18.5", 14.5", Royal Oak Lump / Royal Oak All Natural Briquettes, Blue Genesis Silver C

  9. #39
    TVWBB Emerald Member LMichaels's Avatar
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    No I haven't I get a different product that is white. IIRC from Tri-Flow or Tri-Flon (forget the name). It's about $25 a tube, I put it in one large frame machine, If that machine comes back for warranty than I will not use it again. Kind of the same thing though. Synthetic, "food grade" and such. It is not compatible to any other grease so the unit needs to be free of any remnants of other types of grease. I have reservations about how well it will hold up to the extreme pressure these particular machines exert on the gear set. I am sure it's far better than what the factory installs though. The machine I put it in was in a 6 qt and I know the guy uses it in a commercial setting. That was almost 6 months ago and no failure at this point. I guess there is no harm in trying it out. Heck it's gotta be WAY better than factory grease.

  10. #40
    TVWBB Wizard Rusty James's Avatar
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    Parts should be here in a few days, but the grease may take another week to get here...

    18.5", 18.5", 14.5", Royal Oak Lump / Royal Oak All Natural Briquettes, Blue Genesis Silver C

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