Rustoleum 900 Degree Caliper Paint Genesis 1000


 

Brian B Atlanta

TVWBB Gold Member
So for the team as Jon does all the time, since my lids with three coats of Ultra were toast after 2 sessions maybe cause I did not get all the raised paint off which mine were in bad shape. This was after 3 coats of ultra in defense of the paint my manifold was nat gas they just stuck a propane connection on it got past 700 when I fired it up.

Also I had repaired the cross member the firebox bolts into meaning sanding it down 3 coats started to rust thru again. Took the damn thing apart last weekend took my orbital sander to that piece spayed with 3 coats of the 900 within an hour waited 4 days that paint you can re-coat in 24 hours not taking a chance hit it with 2 more coats tonight.

This paint is thicker and it has the good nozzle not the one that will break your finger but cause it is thicker you need to be a little more careful with it. Its for sure more glossy than the ultra wish I had resprayed the whole frame but to quote Stefan it is not a prom queen so that was not happening. However if I had known about this stuff before I would have used it for the frame. This paint is available from Amazon but its an add on so you need to spend 25 bucks. Good price also.

https://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B006ZLRBBO/tvwb-20

Spraying the side lids this weekend gonna use the simple green sand it with 220 with my orbital sander then wipe it down with denatured alcohol before I paint it. Time will tell if it holds up better we will see.

These are before pictures of the side lids will post the after when I'm done.

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Brian,

I will be very interested to see how this paint works. If it turns out better than Ultra, we should start recommending it instead.

On the cross-member, are you saying it started rusting through again? If so, I hope your hard work does the trick this time. If not, maybe you can switch out with a stainless replacement of the same size frame tubing. That piece is always a problem...
 
Brian,
Let us know how those End Caps come out.

I used VHT Caliper paint on one of my frames and it came out very smooth and even. Wiped clean nicely.

Jeff
 
So Jeff and Rusty would know better than I but if I remember the caliber paint in the old days was good to 500 so was the engine enamel which again is extremely smooth paint used it to paint my tank scale bracket and a trim piece that Jon supplied also used it to spray the rusted spots on the propane manifold because I ran out of Ultra had the engine enamel laying around. They would know being auto guys if the 900 is fairly new.

The engine enamel takes a few days to dry where this 900 seemed to be okay and to be honest did not touch it for a day rather be safe than sorry but it was dry to the touch they claim less then an hour. The engine enamel is quite the finish but this is pretty good also and Jeff used VHT before not for this doubt there is much difference between the two but they have always made quality paints.

We will see painting this weekend and Jon I believe on the frame piece the firebox bolts into should have taken it to bare metal kind of roughed it up pretty good cause not looking for perfection but I had used the eastwood encapsulator on that its a good product but now I am starting to think it can't take the heat cause that section gets pretty hot. If you use the caliper paint no need for that product anyway.
 
I have been using Rusto ulta on all my end caps with no known problems. My personal grill has gotten up and over 600 many times during cooks and burn offs and other than grease and gunk, the paint looks great. I am wondering if the paint you left on under neath the ultra should have been taken off of maybe you had some kind of contaminants that were not cleaned off before spraying.

Rather than trying to sand off the old paint, I would consider using an angle grinder and wire cup brush. It is much more effective and gets into the creases and corners a bit better than sand paper.
 
I never have great success with spray painting. I either have too much paint on or too little. Or there is spray dust ..... So since the cast aluminum has a kind of orange peel surface on the outside of the firebox and the lid sides anyhow I decided to use a roller. 4" woofen roller and the 1 qt Rusto High Heat satin BBQ paint. For the little grooves in the firebox I use a paint brush. Doing two coats, this has come out nice so far. But I don't have any long time experience yet how the paint holds up over years.
 
So here are a few pictures of the end caps sprayed with the caliper paint.

Its very glossy not for all but I was really using it to see if it will hold up better and not ending looking like the caps at the top. As with any gloss paint it takes a lot of coats to get the gloss uniform. It probably could have used a few more light coats but its grilling season and since I have another grill losing it for a few weeks was not a big deal but the wife I could tell was starting to get a bit impatient since this is really her grill and since she is on a health kick cooking stuff I won't eat. :)

I took the end caps down to bare metal with the wire cup brush, sprayed them down with simple green, rinsed and wiped them off. Then I used a rag with Acetone to wipe them down before painting. I was surprised how much black dust from the old paint was on the rag when I used the Acetone. So it was a little deceiving I thought I was good to go after the simple green and rinsing then wiping down with a cloth but I was not.

Maybe most likely since I had not used the Acetone the last time there was residue on the paint that led to failure.


GthHAD2.jpg

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Yah, I am starting to see some "failure" on my end caps from my personal grill. It seems like the areas are the spots that were really bad before I stripped them down to bare aluminum. I may not have gotten them cleaned up as good as I should have before painting. I will let them go for a while and redo them, but since they are aluminum, I am not real worried about them rusting or anything.
 
Bruce I think that was my issue the first time since mine were in bad shape I hit them with the wire cup brush but I did not take all the texture off it seems the paint first went bad where those nubs that remained almost like the tops of them lost the paint pretty fast then it kind of spread. I did not wipe them down before I painted them and I would only recommend using the Acetone if you down to bare metal as its pretty strong and will take paint off. If anyone was just wire brushing and then re-painting I would use De-Natured Alchohol.

I am not recommending if your inclined to use this on your caps yet lets see what it looks like after 3 months and I will repost photo's should be easy to clean though. Jeff had used caliper paint on his frame and mentioned that.
 
The trouble with cast aluminum in this application is that once it's exposed to greasy smoke and such it gets into the pores of the metal as cast aluminum is like a sponge. A simple wipe down with any cleaner will not get that out of the pres of the metal. Maybe a good soak in lacquer thinner for a few days will work? I don't know. But I do know you will never get paint to adhere to cast aluminum that's been exposed to oils and such. I know at the company my dad was at they had to go through a VERY complicated stripping process for cast aluminum parts to be "finished"
 
Larry hopefully the acetone did the trick but we will see time will tell. For sure the simple green did not do it but I had done some searching on painting bare metal and almost all those hits they used Acetone. One hit on a metal site stated that the simple green even if rinsed will leave a slight film that can cause a problem.

Hey plenty of people with good results on the board but as I stated I thought they looked pretty good using the simple green rinsing it but when I used the Acetone to wipe them down there was still a lot of black on the cloth so for sure what appeared to be clean was not.
 
So here are a few pictures of the end caps sprayed with the caliper paint.

Its very glossy not for all but I was really using it to see if it will hold up better and not ending looking like the caps at the top. As with any gloss paint it takes a lot of coats to get the gloss uniform. It probably could have used a few more light coats but its grilling season and since I have another grill losing it for a few weeks was not a big deal but the wife I could tell was starting to get a bit impatient since this is really her grill and since she is on a health kick cooking stuff I won't eat. :)

I took the end caps down to bare metal with the wire cup brush, sprayed them down with simple green, rinsed and wiped them off. Then I used a rag with Acetone to wipe them down before painting. I was surprised how much black dust from the old paint was on the rag when I used the Acetone. So it was a little deceiving I thought I was good to go after the simple green and rinsing then wiping down with a cloth but I was not.

Maybe most likely since I had not used the Acetone the last time there was residue on the paint that led to failure.


GthHAD2.jpg

gD0aLOS.jpg

Man, Brian, that grill is just gorgeous! Those side pieces are the best I have ever seen. I do think you are right about going the extra mile with acetone or maybe xylene to get metal really clean. Larry has mentioned that, too. It is hard to resist the “get’r done!” urge when you are wanting to get a project toward completion, but if you want high-end results like yours you have to go the full measure. I need to be more patient:eek:!
 
Thanks Jon now the frame looks dull. :)

If the lids hold up maybe do the frame in the winter, but eventually this is going to my daughter when she has a house down the road so might leave that for her fiance whose name is Jon also.
 
So just trying to update been a month and 1/2 give or take the caliper paint on the side lids looks exactly the same as my photo's, good so far we will see down the road won't update this thread till end of year unless they degrade but again so far so good.
 
Awesome, thanks for the update. I just noticed you did the cookbox in gloss as well. I always use the matte on that. I may give the caliper paint a shot there as well.
 

 

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