How to best fix floor on a >2007 Genesis


 
Stefan H

Stefan H

TVWBB Guru
I got a cheap Genesis last night. It is one of those 2007+ models with the 4 office chair wheels. It came with a bunch of stuff such as rotisserie, 2 tanks, new grates and cover. The frame is solid. So are the side panels and the back panel. No rust at the bottom. However the floor panel is badly rusted around the hole where the tank sits.
I have never worked on one of these. Can this floor panel be removed and replaced or is this welded in? The other option might be to cut it out and rivet in a new plain sheet of stainless steel which I could get from a local metal shop. Trying to figure out what the best and most affordable solution would be. I don't want to keep it but sell it again.
 
Looks like I answered the question myself. According to the instruction manual I found on the Weber site it is a separate part. Does anyone know what the part number is? Thx.
 
Call Weber they might be able to help and maybe even order it for you. Also super jelous of some members here who had that part machined from stainless steel.
 
Thanks. Somehow I forgot to check ereplacementparts. I need to find the serial number and then I will call Weber. Often their prices are cheaper than ereplacementparts.
 
Those bottom panels are not fixed in. They are removable. I believe there are two bolts on the back bottom edge and two bolts on the bottom of each side that fasten in the bottom panel. If it is not rusted through, you can grind off the rust with a wire wheel, then sand it as flat as possible and prime, sand, prime sand, etc.... until it is relatively flat again. Then paint it. I just did a 2008 side burner and 2012 front burner. I had to wire wheel, sand, prime...... both of the bottom panels. I think you will probably find rust around the long vent holes as well. Also, look closely at the vent holes in the back and side panels.

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Yep, Bruce laid it out the way it is. Disassembling the cabinet parts is very easy. The rust removal is a lot harder work but can be rewarding if you see it through like Bruce did.

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I was blessed to have my friend, a sheet metal shop owner, make some stainless replacement bottoms and backs for this grill. I have used up the ones he made and I am begging him to make me some more. If you could get someone in your area to do the same that would be the ultimate fix:

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Jon, I have a E310 that looks about like that one above. I am glad that I have cannibalized a few parts off it and it has a broken firebox where the lid stops are. Otherwise, I would be tempted to restore it and I don't want to go through all that work on the cabinet that it would take. I am going back to Silver B's and 1000's for my next couple of restores, but the buyers around here really seem to like the newer E3xx series grills. I guess I don't blame them, but it is hard for me try to explain that a Silver B or 1000 can cook just as good or even better and is so much easier to maintain.
 
Here is the culprit. I took the back panel off. No rust on that. Also no rust on the side panels. Maybe a little surface rust at the sheet ends. Nothing some touch up paint can fix. There is so much grease in the corners of that grill which probably prevented most of the rust. lol.
It is really only the floor which is rusted through around the big hole. I need to find out how to remove that without taking the whole grill apart.
Next week I will call Weber to find out how much a replacement shelf is.

My question is now about the grey paint. Is there a commercial grey paint that fits the color of the frame? Also is there a high heat equivalent that matches that grey? Not sure yet I want to take the fire box out.

But I only paid $50 for the grill. With cover, rotisserie and two propane tanks. One of them about half full. But Bruce I also prefer the older ones. They are so much easier to work on. These newer webers are like unibody car designs compared to the body on frame construction of the old cars. lol

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That actually doesn’t look too bad. Get one of the grinder wheels designed for removing paint and rust. Smoke grey was the closest I’ve found but it’s quite a bit off, though not bad if you paint the whole panel.
 
We have had a number of discussions here about matching these grays. For the cabinet and side pieces I suggest Rustoleum 2X gloss dark gray. It is not the same but close. Works fine if you paint all the parts. As far as the firebox and end caps there are two that I know of: VHT Ford Gray engine enamel or Dupli-Color New Ford Gray. Neither is a great match. I think maybe the New Ford Gray is a little closer. An alternative would be to switch to high heat black. You can check out Bruce’s restoration using black and see how you like that.
 
No there is no more grinding. It looks much better in the pics. There is no material left about 2-3" aound the hole.
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Jon Tofte said:
We have had a number of discussions here about matching these grays. For the cabinet and side pieces I suggest Rustoleum 2X gloss dark gray. It is not the same but close. Works fine if you paint all the parts. As far as the firebox and end caps there are two that I know of: VHT Ford Gray engine enamel or Dupli-Color New Ford Gray. Neither is a great match. I think maybe the New Ford Gray is a little closer. An alternative would be to switch to high heat black. You can check out Bruce’s restoration using black and see how you like that.
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Thanks Jon. This is great info. I have to decide now what to do.
 
Yeah, when the metal is gone you can’t bring it back. It really doesn’t matter if that hole is bigger but if you can’t live with that, the only alternatives are to fabricate a replacement or buy new one. If you are REALLY lucky you might find a donor grill with a better bottom, but this is usually the first thing to go so most used 300’s are similarly rusted, some hopefully not as bad.
 
Jon Tofte said:
Yeah, when the metal is gone you can’t bring it back. It really doesn’t matter if that hole is bigger but if you can’t live with that, the only alternatives are to fabricate a replacement or buy new one. If you are REALLY lucky you might find a donor grill with a better bottom, but this is usually the first thing to go so most used 300’s are similarly rusted, some hopefully not as bad.
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I am always one to like a "better bottom" :D
 
Oh man I am hating this type of grill. What was Weber thinking???? First one if the hood bolts was seized in the hood. I had to drill it out. Then they had the glorious idea to use steel bolts to fasten the manifold to the firebox. And with threads inside the firebox cast aluminum. Guess what. I had to drill these out too because they were seized.
Then there are various sizes of bolts..... no I don’t really want to work on another one. I will finish that one and sell it as fast as I can. ... sorry I had to vent... lol
 
Jon Tofte said:
We have had a number of discussions here about matching these grays. For the cabinet and side pieces I suggest Rustoleum 2X gloss dark gray. It is not the same but close. Works fine if you paint all the parts. As far as the firebox and end caps there are two that I know of: VHT Ford Gray engine enamel or Dupli-Color New Ford Gray. Neither is a great match. I think maybe the New Ford Gray is a little closer. An alternative would be to switch to high heat black. You can check out Bruce’s restoration using black and see how you like that.
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I decided to paint the firebox and the hood sides black. I didn’t want to spend money on paint I might not use anymore. And the black rustoleum BBQ paint I always use on the older Weber grills.
 
Stefan H said:
Oh man I am hating this type of grill. What was Weber thinking???? First one if the hood bolts was seized in the hood. I had to drill it out. Then they had the glorious idea to use steel bolts to fasten the manifold to the firebox. And with threads inside the firebox cast aluminum. Guess what. I had to drill these out too because they were seized.
Then there are various sizes of bolts..... no I don’t really want to work on another one. I will finish that one and sell it as fast as I can. ... sorry I had to vent... lol
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The only reasons I have enjoyed restoring these was my now exhausted supply of stainless replacement bottoms and backs and the fact that to many these grills have more “wow” effect when all fixed up. Myself I would rather have a classic Genesis with wood slats, but a lot of people do like the imposing appearance and flash of the stainless tables and trim.

Bruce has had some good success with flipping these. I sure wish I could get some more of those stainless parts and get my friend to make them to order for others. With this upgrade, these 300 series grills are a lot more solid.
 
Yes these grills are optically more impressive. But the quality is really bad compared to the older grills.
 
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