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Thread: New Pit Boss blue egg smoker - need to get adapter to mount Micro Damper

  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by Michael Werner View Post
    I’d be very curious if others are getting better results with lump(and you are using lump in your pit boss, aren’t you?) in a kamado. I just wouldn’t expect a dead flat temp curve out of a natural material with the incredible size variations of lump. I’d be happy as a clam with your last graph.
    I get very consistent burns with lump. The fire is air limited so the shape variation doesn’t have much impact except when running wide open.

  2. #32
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    RK,
    here are my setting for a tightly sealed ceramic grill. I currently use an Adapt A Damper. These should work with some fine tuning for the RD3. The Micro-Damper will not control well on my grill with these settings. I have to make changes mainly to the fan side of things since a blower is a pressure type device and a fan is a cfm type of device.

    P = 2.8
    I = 0.0035
    D = 6
    Fan Output = Voltage
    On Above = 0%
    % min = 0
    % max = 30
    % startup max = 65

    Next item is make sure your thermocouple is not clipped to the grill grates. On my grill, I drop the thermocouple down through one of the dome damper slots and dangle it as close to the center of the dome as I can. I still have a top damper open around a 1/8" depending on the temp I am controlling too. Make sure you have no air leaks. Air leaks are bad. Close the grill with a dollar bill between the gaskets and pull. Must have drag. If not you have a leak. Check all around the grill. Make sure you do not leaks around your inlet damper. Most grills will have a seal of RTV between the inlet damper assembly and ceramic shell. If no seal or it is damaged, fix.

  3. #33
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    Started a couple pork butts from Costco.

    I ran the pit temp probe though the top vent and then closed it as far as I could. Even then, that's open too far and the temps have a hard time dropping, so I put some foil tape over 4 of the openings to close it off even more. It's been more stable after that.

    Active grill going HERE

    Current settings:
    Last edited by RKHanso; 05-17-2019 at 12:13 PM.

  4. #34
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    since your using a ceramic grill, the pid numbers for most of the ceramic grills out there will have close, if not the same numbers, for any ceramic grill. The P value should be somewhere around 2.5. I, should be somewhere around .0035. Anything higher will make the oscillation from the high gain you currently have set, to happen faster and the swing can be larger. D should be around 5-6. Unfortunately I did not have the best control with the microdamper so I went with the adapt-a-damper which has worked well for me. Tightly sealed ceramic grills work better with blower based dampers. I recently have built a Tom Kole offset damper and the barrel damper on the first page of his sticky post . These work well and I have been currently using the first design, the barrel damper, because the physical design and flow characteristics really match the flow needs for my Primo Jr. With any off the dampers, I keep my pit probe in the center of the dome around the same level as the mechanical probe and the dome vent slightly cracked. One other thing is I use ceramic plates when I cook using my primo jr. This keeps the temp fluctuations from the direct flame from effecting the control. Nice steady temps.

  5. #35
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    So, just seeing this - I've got the PitBoss in black from a couple of years ago - essentially the same grill.

    I'm using the HM with a MicroDamper, very successfully. My attach is similar to everybody else: construct a metal piece to cover the door opening with a home in it. Then I've soldered on a copper pipe->threaded adapter and then use a PVC threaded that is glued to the MicroDamper. I leave the plate/copper on the grill and then have a PVC threaded cap to screw on to close up the opening if needed.

    I saw somewhere in the above, the pit probe was coming in through the top - I don't do that...... just let the pit probe cable get sandwiched between the egg halves. It'll seal up OK.

    In terms of settings, I've tried various and it's pretty tolerant. My current are:
    - P=1.5, I=0.0035, D=6
    - Servo fully open at 50%
    - Fan = Pulse on at 50%, min 10%, max 100%, startup 100%

    You will only need the top open at about 0.5, possibly a bit less. If you want to get started faster, open all the way (but remember to close it).

    Today is a smaller brisket...... well controlled.


    EDIT: The MD is really damn good for low control. I too have struggled to get the MD to get to high temps (600+). It can do it but only if it's new lump and the firebox is full. Usually, I'm topping out at about the 400 degrees level under usual (old lump, firebox not full) circumstances. I printed and made a bigger blower but have yet to test if that can get me to the higher temps a little more easily.

    Cheers,

    John
    Last edited by John_Matthews; 05-18-2019 at 10:22 AM.

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