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Thread: Spirit S-210 base restore question

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    Spirit S-210 base restore question

    I've had this 2013 S-210 which I picked up used off of CL on the deck of our beach house for three years now and it's holding up great thus far. It's a very harsh environment. 35 yards from Cape May County, NJ back bay, North facing deck. Anyway, I ordered new stainless flame tamers as I doubt what's left of the original porcelain steel ones will make it to July 4th. I am going to clean and grease the valves. I have a spare set of burner tubes but I don't forsee using them for a long while. The lid end caps are decent as is the box and 95% of the frame....except for the base in the front center below the lid handle. The gray paint is bubbling up and separating from the steel. My thought was to put my angle grinder with an abrasive wheel or wire brush to strip away all effected areaes. Clean and lightly sand, tape, prime and paint. Is that how you guys handle this situation?
    Last edited by Jay D in Jersey; 04-08-2018 at 06:12 AM.

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    TVWBB Pro THyde's Avatar
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    There are people who use rust encapsulators like POR-15 to treat rusted areas. I'm sure they will chime in soon!

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    TVWBB Gold Member Bruce's Avatar
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    The rust encapsulators are just very heavy duty primers and work well. However, there is usually a limit to the heat they can handle and if the problem on the base is right against the cookbox, you might be pushing the temp limits. Make sure any paint, primer or rust encapsulator is rated for at least 500 degrees on anything touching or next to the cookbox.

    But yah, stripping the area, preparing and repainting is the way to fix that problem.

    Post up some pictures when you get a chance.
    Grills and guns are a lot alike. While one would usually suffice and you can only use one a time, each grill/gun is better in certain situations.

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    TVWBB Emerald Member LMichaels's Avatar
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    There is a high heat version of RE available from Eastwood

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    TVWBB All-Star Jon Tofte's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by LMichaels View Post
    There is a high heat version of RE available from Eastwood
    That is some good information. I want to check into that. Do you think the high heat version would work for a kettle grill?

    When I look at kettles with high mileage and small chunks of missing porcelain it strikes me that if there was something like POR-15 that could handle the heat it would make a perfect patch. On a black Kettle it would probably be all you need. On a color kettle you could top with very high heat paint that at least comes in several colors. I know you should not paint porcelain, but I can see how a well executed patch could make a difference in appearance and longevity.

    This makes my 500th post. I guess I am a “Pro” now!
    Genesis 330-SE Genesis Silver C Q3200 Q1200 Performer 1 green kettle. Projects: Genesis Skyline 4000 one redhead and one maroon Genesis 1000 Summit 650.

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    TVWBB Gold Member Bruce's Avatar
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    You should be able find it here: https://www.eastwood.com/paints/rust-solutions.html
    Grills and guns are a lot alike. While one would usually suffice and you can only use one a time, each grill/gun is better in certain situations.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bruce View Post
    The rust encapsulators are just very heavy duty primers and work well. However, there is usually a limit to the heat they can handle and if the problem on the base is right against the cookbox, you might be pushing the temp limits. Make sure any paint, primer or rust encapsulator is rated for at least 500 degrees on anything touching or next to the cookbox.

    But yah, stripping the area, preparing and repainting is the way to fix that problem.

    Post up some pictures when you get a chance.
    I should have been a bit more accurate in my description. The base I mean literally the base where the wheels/casters attach. No heat exposure.

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    TVWBB Emerald Member LMichaels's Avatar
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    It's made to take heat as high as an exhaust manifold so it should work. They also have a paint product that is meant to coat exhaust manifolds. I don't think I have ever seen a kettle get anywhere near that hot. What have ya got to lose? Just a little time and cost of the material.

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    TVWBB All-Star Jon Tofte's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by LMichaels View Post
    It's made to take heat as high as an exhaust manifold so it should work. They also have a paint product that is meant to coat exhaust manifolds. I don't think I have ever seen a kettle get anywhere near that hot. What have ya got to lose? Just a little time and cost of the material.
    I have only had time to briefly look, but I plan to give it a try. I will post before and after pics of how it works out.
    Genesis 330-SE Genesis Silver C Q3200 Q1200 Performer 1 green kettle. Projects: Genesis Skyline 4000 one redhead and one maroon Genesis 1000 Summit 650.

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    Jay, it's all a question of how bad the area is. If the rust is deeper, you might want to use a rust converter so that the metal doesn't "thin out" too much. If you've caught it early, then yes, strip it, sand it, prime it and paint it with a good quality product. Also, be sure to check the underside of the cart bottom as well.
    Ranch Kettle x 2, MiniRanch Gen2 Performer , SS Performer , OTG , OTS, Red MBH, JJ, SJS, Summit 650, Genesis Silver C , Genesis Gold C

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