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  1. #41
    TVWBB Guru Rusty James's Avatar
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    Bumping an old thread here, but thanks for the torch tip cleaner suggestion.

    Had a wild hair about immersing the cast iron grates in hot oil, on occasions, to prevent rust. Does that sound doable?

    By the way, are these grates porcelain coated?
    18.5", 18.5", 14.5", Royal Oak Lump / Royal Oak All Natural Briquettes, Blue Genesis Silver C, Q1000

  2. #42
    TVWBB Gold Member Jon Tofte's Avatar
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    Yes, the grates are porcelain coated. They are better than some of Weber's other porcelain coated cast iron, but eventually do start to chip.

    I am not an expert on seasoning, but if you can get any rust off, you can season just like it was raw cast iron. I have always coated with Crisco and put in the oven. Your idea might work well, too.

    If it gets to a point that pieces are chipping off with any regularity, I am afraid that you probably are looking at a new set of grates. Removing ALL the porcelain coating sounds like a good idea, but in practice is a pretty hard, time consuming job.
    Genesis Platinum Skyline 3200 Q1200"Flat-top" 26 Kettle Red,Black 22s 1Touch Platinum, Black '74 18, JJ & SJ. Projects: Genesis 4, 2 many!

  3. #43
    TVWBB Honor Circle Bruce's Avatar
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    Yah, once the coating wears off, they start to rust and that makes the chipping and flaking all the worse. Plus the fact that the grates are much less thick than the Genesis grates, they rust and crack pretty quick.

    There are a couple outfits making aftermarket grates that look pretty good and they are significantly cheaper than regular Weber grates: https://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/A...MFJYVT/tvwb-20
    Some people rescue dogs and cats. I rescue Webers.

  4. #44
    TVWBB Guru Rusty James's Avatar
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    Wonder why they (Weber) don't just use plain cast iron grates to begin with.
    18.5", 18.5", 14.5", Royal Oak Lump / Royal Oak All Natural Briquettes, Blue Genesis Silver C, Q1000

  5. #45
    TVWBB Honor Circle Bruce's Avatar
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    I can think of two reasons. First, they are prettier and probably help to prevent food sticking. It takes a while on CI grates to get a good seasoning so that stuff won't stick so bad.
    Second, I think it helps prevent rust which would probably be an issue with how the average griller treats their CI grates. Also, these grates are not as bulky as regular grates and will corrode to a point they will break fairly quickly unless they are cared for.
    Some people rescue dogs and cats. I rescue Webers.

  6. #46
    TVWBB Honor Circle LMichaels's Avatar
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    On the older Q's they used a different enameling process and they were MUCH better but now as they cheapen everything they make to sub par quality levels they've gone to a simple top coat process on the enamel. They're fine as long as you don't subject them to hard scraping or sudden temp changes i.e. putting frozen burger patties on a screaming hot grill.

  7. #47
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    Fired up the Q after a winter in the garage and got preeetty much nothing - wouldn't even break 200. Found my old thread while searching for a solution!

    I took the whole regulator off and apart last night and gave it a good cleaning and soaking. The burner tube is still pretty much new from last year.

    If the clean reg and the burner tube don't get me where I want, I'm going to start looking at changing out the orifice and possible going with an adjustable regulator. Looks like these things are stepped all the way down to 1/2 psi.

    Anyone done any of that?

  8. #48
    TVWBB Honor Circle Bruce's Avatar
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    My guess is you are vapor locking the regulator by starting your grill improperly. I certainly wouldn't start changing out the orifice. If you don't use 1lb cans of propane on the grill, you could simply use a regular bulk tank hose w/regulator hooked directly to the grill. That Is how I have mine set up on my deck. But, before you start buying new parts and modifying existing parts, make sure you are starting your grill properly.
    If you are unfamiliar with the correct starting sequence, then someone will post it up if you ask.
    Some people rescue dogs and cats. I rescue Webers.

  9. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bruce View Post
    My guess is you are vapor locking the regulator by starting your grill improperly. I certainly wouldn't start changing out the orifice. If you don't use 1lb cans of propane on the grill, you could simply use a regular bulk tank hose w/regulator hooked directly to the grill. That Is how I have mine set up on my deck. But, before you start buying new parts and modifying existing parts, make sure you are starting your grill properly.
    If you are unfamiliar with the correct starting sequence, then someone will post it up if you ask.
    Sorry, I'm really not trying to be a dick, but all of this is previously covered in the thread. I've been using this grill for a long, long time. I've used a 220, then a 2200, then a 1000 all new out of the box and the 220 and the 2200 after a few years of service. I've used 1 and 20 lb tanks on all of them with Weber and Brinkman and other adapter hoses.

    Fuel flow on these is fine in factory new state, but the 4 elements that go into it (regulator, orifice, burner tubes and burner vent holes) are all very, very small and seriously prone to constriction in one way or another.

    I'm not sure that you can start the grill improperly when using a 1lb tank. And how stupid is the idea that you can "start the grill wrong" in the first place. I've been using propane fired grills for 25 years and that doesn't exist with many others.

    And this most recent problem was with a 1lb tank. And the regulator was filthy.

    So it's probably back to normal. But normal on these things is really just fine - but 45btu/sq in isn't going to be burning up the airwaves anytime soon. There are plenty of grills out there that put out double the heat and I'm looking to find out if anyone else has experience improving the performance of their Q.

  10. #50
    TVWBB Honor Circle Bruce's Avatar
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    Matt:
    I am not trying to be condescending. I didn't go back through the whole thread, it is pretty long. I wrongly assumed you had just added onto an ongoing and meandering thread.

    It sounds like you are covering all the possible causes. But, I have owned probably 15 Q grills and only found one bad regulator on one of them. And it still worked fine, it just made a slight "fluttering" sound when in use which is not uncommon. But, I have dealt with the vapor lock issue. It is a symptom of the new OPD on the 20lb bulk tanks. They are designed to detect a large leak and when you open them with the burners turned on or if you simply open them real quickly, they shut down flow thinking a massive leak has just occurred. But, no, it shouldn't happen with a 1lb container or if you don't turn your tank off between uses. I have experienced this on both Genesis grills and Q grills, but it seems to be a bigger issue with Q grills. Shutting down the burners, then shutting down the tank, disconnecting the hose from the tanks, waiting a minute or two, reconnecting the tank, then slowly opening the valve on the tank, then turning on the burner and lighting it always fixed the low flame issue unless it was something else such as plugged burner holes.

    Drilling out the orifice hole will likely boost your heat output and depending on how much you ream it out, it could be a lot. The one to ask on doing that kind of mod is probably Larry Micheals. He has some good experience with doing that and can lead you in the right direction.

    How hot does the lid thermometer say your grill is getting when fully heated up?
    Some people rescue dogs and cats. I rescue Webers.

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