HELP!! w/ Genesis 1000 restoration


 

MarkSiebel

TVWBB Fan
While replacing burner tubes on this 20+ yr old beast...i busted the head off bolt of the end burner tube guide screw/bolt. Tried drilling out..no luck.
so..now when pushing down control knob to start, tube lifts up 1"...any thoughts?? high heat glue??
 
I am definitely not an expert at drilling-out-type repairs. I do know, though, that I tried to drill out a stuck hinge pin on a Genesis 310 lid and was getting nowhere. My neighbor next door gave it a try with his freshly sharpened drill bit and it was a night and day difference. Maybe a sharpened or new high quality drill bit would make a difference.

I have learned from Weber and from this forum that your best bet is to just leave the original burner bolts in no matter how bad they look. They really just act as guides. That advice is to prevent this very thing from happening. Now that yours no longer has anything to hold the burner in place, I believe you will have to do something to keep it safely functional.

There are some folks here with a wealth of experience (a LOT more than me), so hopefully some of them will chime in with some other ideas.
 
Good luck with that. I've got nothing. Is there enough of the threads left to put a wing nut on without the washer?
 
FIrst of all, those bolts are not supposed to ever be removed. They are simply there to hold the burner tubes in place. The first grill I rehabbed, I did the same thing. If you can't drill out the old bolt, then drill a new one just to the side of it and find a stainless steel machine screw to put in there. It won't matter if the tube is 1/8" out of alignment.

It seems logical to remove those bolts to get the tubes out, but that is not what Weber designed them for. The way the tubes are supposed to be removed is to remove the two bolts that hold the manifold to the cook box. Then pull the tubes out through the holes that they enter the cook box from.
 
Get yourself some angle material and make your own hold down. After all the posts on here warning on NOT removing those screws not sure why you did. The only other way is you have find another cook box
 
yes!!

FIrst of all, those bolts are not supposed to ever be removed. They are simply there to hold the burner tubes in place. The first grill I rehabbed, I did the same thing. If you can't drill out the old bolt, then drill a new one just to the side of it and find a stainless steel machine screw to put in there. It won't matter if the tube is 1/8" out of alignment.

It seems logical to remove those bolts to get the tubes out, but that is not what Weber designed them for. The way the tubes are supposed to be removed is to remove the two bolts that hold the manifold to the cook box. Then pull the tubes out through the holes that they enter the cook box from.

YES!! my bad...I never should have tried to unscrew it after realizing how tight it was on....I just should have wd/40 to lubricate it and then vise grips to PULL OUT!! lesson learned..........
 
Mark,
No WD40, no pliers, no removing them. THey are not supposed to be removed. They are simply there to hold the burner tubes in place. I believe that if you tried to remove them from a brand new grill, you would find that they are frozen in place from the factory.
 
Mark,
No WD40, no pliers, no removing them. THey are not supposed to be removed. They are simply there to hold the burner tubes in place. I believe that if you tried to remove them from a brand new grill, you would find that they are frozen in place from the factory.

Correct! I meant remove the burner tube w/ vise lock and not even mess with the guide bolt..my bad... (the prior owner had completely tightened guide bolt so the burner tube did not slide out)
 
There is no way to tighten those screws that much. They are on a shoulder. The burners slide out to the right side from under the control panel. They do not lift out
 
Yes, you simply remove the manifold under the control panel and then pull the tubes straight out from that direction (from left to right).
 
Just drill it out and get on with it. File the surface of what remains of the bolt flat. Center punch it well so the bit won’t wander, and start with a small bit. Work you way up in bit size and what reamains will be gone in no time. Good luck. What’s funny is the burners I’ve bought from Weber came with the bolts giving the impression they should be replaced. From hanging here with these jamokes (great bunch for sure) I knew better than to even try. Yours will be fine just be patient and take your time. All the best
 
Those bolts are so far into the corner how do you get a drill down there? I have tried as on my old Genesis II they had actually rotted off LOL. None of the drills (I owned at the time) would allow a bit to get in there. Though at the time all I had was a large DeWalt and large Milwaukee 3/8 and 1/2 inch respectively. Now I have a fairly slim and trim Bosch 3/8" 18v drill. My solution was a used a piece of 1" angle aluminum stock and made a hold down for the burners out of that and attached it through the side of the fire box. Did that a number of years ago and it's holding up just great.
 
Larry, I know I twisted one of those off on one of my first rehab grills. I used a Black & Decker 20v to drill it out. I don't remember it being overly angled, but even if it was slightly, I don't think it would matter. I am sure some of those big 110v drills would maybe cause an excessive angle though.

If the new screw is angled slightly, no big deal. It is just place holder, not designed to torque down the burner. I don't think being completely flush is critical and it is just something to hold it in place so it doesn't fall out.

What people don't realize is the burner tube should basically be able to move slightly after it is installed.
 
Yeah my big drills I could not even get the bit to the area let alone drill even on an angle which is why I made my own hold downs (which actually worked better than the screws).
 

 

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