Curb Pickup on a Silver C today, BUT!!!


 

Bruce

TVWBB 2-Star Olympian
I picked up a decent Genesis Silver C today for free. It looks complete and in good restorable condition despite looking like it spent the majority of its life outside and uncovered. It will need new grates and at least a new crossover tube. The burners might be salvageable, but the Flavorizer bars were Stainless and real good shape. BUT...... I did something stupid. I put the grill in my truck with the front of the grill facing forward...I never paid much attention to the orientation of my other grills when hauling them. But, as I was driving home down the interstate, I looked in my side view mirror and realized the cover on the side burner was GONE!!! Dammit. I guess the wind caught it and it flipped up and ripped off.

This is my first "C" grill with the extra burner and I was so excited to get one to refurbish and this just frosted my butt that I didn't think about the lid when loading it.

So, does anyone know of a source for the Stainless lid and one that won't cost me an arm and a leg or force me to buy the whole burner unit?

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Damn that is rotten luck. Maybe just take it off and hold on to it for parts and who knows lady luck may shine on you again
 
Bruce,

I will check, I think I have both pieces and I don't think I will be using them.
 
Larry: Yah, that was what I was thinking, but it is a shame to have everything needed for a full Silver C restore and just missing those pieces....especially when they were there to begin with and only my dumb move lost them.

Pat: If you have them, I would be willing to pay for shipping and a reasonable fee. That would be awesome. Let me know.

Bruce
 
Bruce, let me look in the garage tonight. I am still recovering from my second foot surgery but can get around with my trusty IWalk orthopedic crutch. This non weight bearing BS sucks, between the 2 surgeries I will be NWB for 4.5 months this year.
 
Pat, hope the recover is fast and complete. I have a buddy going through surgery on both feet here in a week or two. I am not sure sure if it is one foot and then the other or both at the same time. But he said he will be immobile for quite a while afterwards.

There is absolutely no rush for you to check for the parts. I am not going to get to doing the full restore until spring. Too dang cold this time of year to be working on metal.
 
Thanks to Pat. I recieved my "new to me" burner grate and cover. They are exactly what I needed to replace the ones I lost. Nice to see others on this list help each other out. I got a discontinued part for a reasonable price. It would have taken a very long time to find another donor grill to steal the grate and cover from.

Thanks again Pat.

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LOL, I have a lot of candidate grills ready for attention. But, I hope to get to the Silver C right away after the snow melts. I will keep you posted. As you can see, it isn't going to be a cake walk and until I get it pulled apart, I won't know how much work I will have for sure and exactly what parts I will need. I do see some significant bubbling of the paint in the frame in the area where it is connected to the cook box. It seems like it is still strong, but it is a large area and if it is more than surface rust, I might be in trouble with the frame since Silver C frames are not easy to come by as Silver B's.
Thanks again.
 
I'd POR 15 the frame in this case, due to its rarity as you mentioned Bruce.

Then you can use fillers to bring the frame close to flush, like BondO or maybe even JB Weld.

Just an opinion!

Tim
 
Yep, I have some of that Westwood stuff for rust. I will have to wait until next spring however. Winter is now setting in up here and I don't like to play outside this time of year. My fingers are crossed and it will just be surface rust that is easily fixable.

Here is a photo of the side rail. If you look close, under the dirt, you can see the bubbling of the paint from the rust under the paint. It is a pretty extensive area, but if it isn't rusted through, I will be good. Actually, the inside of that rail, next to the cookbox is going to the be the real challenge more than likely.

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That area is always so dirty that I've found it moot to speculate how much is rust and how much is just brown crud stuck on.

You could be very pleasantly surprised!

Good luck,

Tim
 
Thyde: You got me curious so i went out and cleaned it up a bit and took a close up photo. Clearly there is some significant surface rust under the paint on the top. But, it still seems solid in that area. I also notice there isn't any real rust issues on the outside of the rail near the bolt head. But again, it will be after I remove the cook box and get a look at the inside of the frame rail against the cook box that will be the key.

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I'd take that cook box off right now. Even if you don't do anything else. It is the proximity of that aluminum to the steel that causes galvanic corrosion in the presence of moisture. Given the warm ups and cool downs we're in for I'd get it separated sooner than later
 
Damn Larry, I thought of that but convinced myself it wasn't necessary. Now you are forcing me to go out and pull the box, or at least that side so I can separate it for the winter. Since you don't live far away, I know you realize it is cold as heck out there now and I hate messing with metal parts when it's cold out. My hands will take 3 hours to warm back up to the point I can move them again.
 
OK, that wasn't so bad. Just a few minutes and with some light gloves, all is good. But, as expected, the mounting bolt twisted off at the cook box. No biggie, it actually made things quicker. I will just have to drill it out next spring is all.
Now for the bad news. There is a nickle sized hole rusted out of the frame on the inside. It seems like the outside, top and bottom will be fine, but the inside is toast. I think that once I remove all the rust, I will be OK if I use that Eastwood Red rust encapsulator on it.

Here is a photo. The picture is of the bottom and Inside of the frame rail taken from the underside of the frame rail.

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Ah, too bad. I was hoping for your sake it would have been grease masquerading as rust, as was the case on my 3000 (now 2000).

There is a post somewhere on here where you can replace the tubing for the frame without welding. They use inserts and that frame is definitely a candidate. Low cost repair too.

Good luck!

Tim
 

 

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