Flashing A Roof


 

Rusty James

TVWBB Emerald Member
Odd question, but a disabled friend of ours just had an old attached carport demolished and replaced with a new one, for free, thanks to some charitable church members. The finished product looks great, but there is no flashing between the slope and the exterior wall. You can see daylight from under the carport, so I assume this needs to be flashed?

Is there an acceptable way to seal the gap with premium caulking alone, or should the shingles be removed on that side, and proper metal flashing be installed?

The exterior wall is like textured paneling instead of normal overlapped weatherboarding seen on many homes.

I'll try and post pictures soon.
 
Textured paneling? Do you mean "barnboard"?

Our house was barnboard sided (like this: https://www.menards.com/main/buildi...39-c-13383.htm?tid=-135948599180355429&ipos=8).

Our house was like that when we purchased it, but sided over it within a month of owning the place. The garage at the end of the property still has it on. I re-stained it this summer.

You didn't mention what size the gap, but I would try to cover it up as soon as possible. Being in NC you already know that the creatures of the night will come crawling through there looking for food and a place to nest...especially with Winter coming on.
 
Some pics would help. If the roof pitches away from the wall then porch or headwall flashing is needed. Done right that goes behind the siding and over the shingles. If the roof pitches parallel with the wall then baby tins or step flashing are needed. Done right they go behind the siding and under the shingles at each course. They need to be installed from the bottom up and each one covers the bottom one like steps so water sheds.
It's a carport so it doesn't have to be 100% water tight so another option is to attach porch flashing directly to the siding and run a caulk bead along the top. It's a big L and comes in plain galvanized or in colors like black, white, grey etc.

Tim
 
Here's some initial pictures I took. I'll get some closeups soon.

In this photo, you can see where the old carport roof used to be by looking at the black marks. Where the new carport roof attaches to the left wall looks OK considering that it is recessed under the overhang. The part I am concerned with is the other wall.

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The area that needs flashing is on the right in the picture below. I'll climb up on the roof to get a better shot next week. Could one get by with caulking here, or should proper flashing be installed (over the shingles?)?

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far wall in the first pic? need a better picture (prob from above), can't see much of anything in the 2nd pic in post#4
 
2nd pic: To the right of the guy in the white shirt: as stated earlier. Under the wall board/over the shingles. You might consider caulking under the lip of the flashing (that sits on top of the shingles) but shouldn't be necessary. Caulking alone or using that tarry stuff used to patch holes in shingles: NO WAY.

1st pic: it's ok unless you get a super strong wind blowing rain in under the overhang. Unlikely so leave it as is.

Timothy's idea: if you can't get it under the wall siding, then yes its second best. Carport doesn't have to be water tight BUT if wood gets wet, well we know what happens .

Caulking dries/cracks and you'll be redoing every year or two (think about caulking around window frames.. That has to be sealed as well (paint comes to mind). Remember old wood windows that were caulked--had to paint them as water would seep in.

Water seeps in EVERYWHERE. Well, it does unless sealed completely ;)
 
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They did a nice job, but I would of removed the overhang on the house and tied in the carport rafters to the house rafters, nice clean line and no duel pitch flashing problems.:)

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You could try some trowel on cement like this one, but as Len said it's a yearly thing.

Edit: Oh and they also sell something similar in caulk sized tubes. Just make sure to use a trowel to tool it smooth.
Tim
 
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What about that stuff seen on TV all the time? You know, the guy that cuts the boat in half and seals it with some kind of black tape? They also make a spray-on version of it.

Tim, your idea of tying the carport roof with the house roof makes sense. Wish they would have done that.

Here's what the old carport looked like. Barn city for sure. We hope to replace the entrance door sometime soon too.

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I roofed houses a hundred years ago in high school and we would put step flashing along that side, it was a square piece of thin aluminum about four to six inches square we folded them 90 degrees then nailed them along the edge of the roof and up the side wall, over lapping them about half the width as we went up the slope, if that makes sense. I think we caulked them to the side wall along the top edge
 
"What about that stuff seen on TV all the time? You know, the guy that cuts the boat in half and seals it with some kind of black tape? They also make a spray-on version of it."

Like anything sold on TV check on some unbiased reviews. Personally I think that's a waste of money and wouldn't use it on a dog house ( cause I love my dogs)


Tim
 
And going back to it's only a carport. House sits on a solid foundation ( well below frost level ), and without me knowing what the frost level is in your area the carport can move up and down depending on the freeze thaw because it's prolly attached to the driveway which is a floating slab.

That gap is a good thing, because it will move back and forth depending on the weather, so you should use a material that allows for expansion and contraction.
Step flashing is the best, but in photo #2 you would have to remove the shingle mold ( white 1x4 ) but it gets buried towards the bottom, and they didn't weave the first few courses, so you still have a gap where water runs down.

I would try to do the best you can with a bandaid fix cause that's all I can offer:)
HTH and good luck!

Tim
 
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Since my original post, someone came back and installed a piece of metal flashing of some sort. Without a ladder, I couldn't get a closeup shot of the flashing, but if you look hard enough, you can see a shiny sliver-looking piece of metal.
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Not sure if caulking was applied (probably not), but in the next picture, you can see light between the flashing and a groove in the siding.

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Here's a better shot where the carport roof was attached to the house. I don't know what happened to the white metal trim around the edge of the roof line, but I thought about covering it with white exterior latex paint.

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Tim, the free end of the carport is supported by three 4x4 treated posts cemented into the ground. There is a partial concrete slab under the roof, but it does not extend to the location of the posts. Not sure if frost plays much of an issue with posts and foundations in these parts, but I've heard it creates problems up north.
 
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That was a third option, encapsulate the skewed angle with brake metal and seal the edges.
Your underneath photo # 2 has enough room to add a healthy bead of caulk. I would recommend doing the roofing caulk ( like I linked upthread ) on top and using the same underneath.

The fascia is 1" x 6" , you can find aluminum fascia to match that in 10' lengths at HD or any home improvement store.
Do it right remove the pork chop and add the rake first, then do the soffit.

HTH and if you have any questions please PM me.

Tim
 
The fascia is 1" x 6" , you can find aluminum fascia to match that in 10' lengths at HD or any home improvement store.

Do it right remove the pork chop and add the rake first, then do the soffit.

Tim

Pork Chop??

Is that the triangular piece covered with white aluminum fascia?

Sorry, my carpentry language is fairly limited. :eek:

I do know about a hog in the wall though. :cool: (masonry jargon)
 
Yea that's it, in pic #3. Normally they are cut level at the bottom and plumb or square on the side. Sometimes we dress it up and add a skewed angle for curb appeal.
I would remove it and either cut a new piece or if you can save it cut the back leg plumb.
This way you run the fascia in one piece and bend it around the pork chop and return it on the back leg. It's easy to do if you take exact measurements, make a square line on the backside of the fascia and score it a few times with a utility knife ( use a speed square or small square to keep it straight) Then at the lip on the bottom ( at that same line) use tin snips and cut one square cut and an opposite 45 deg cut, when you fold it use a 1X or the edge of a speed square to keep a nice straight bend. The 45 deg cut folds over the square cut at the bottom and gives you another clean line.
The rake is a small piece square or factory at the top and a plumb cut at the bottom, you cut out the bottom leg to fit over the chop and just use some white aluminum soffit nails to attach everything to the sub fascia.
I wish I was in the neighborhood because I would help you out.

Tim
 
I wish I was in the neighborhood because I would help you out.

Tim

Me too! :D

Tropical storm Nate paid us a visit this weekend, and, while I wasn't at the premises to watch water drain off the roof, the next day, I examined the wall underneath the flashing, and I couldn't see any evidence of leaking. With that said, however, I think your idea of using roof cement is a sound one. I'll take care of it ASAP.

Got a few more issues to take care of too...

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Issues like this happen when you don't have enough roof overhang. This is actually a newer addition to the back of the house, but the carpenter (her husband - long deceased) did a poor job.
 
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