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Thread: Flashing A Roof

  1. #11
    TVWBB Hall of Fame timothy's Avatar
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    And going back to it's only a carport. House sits on a solid foundation ( well below frost level ), and without me knowing what the frost level is in your area the carport can move up and down depending on the freeze thaw because it's prolly attached to the driveway which is a floating slab.

    That gap is a good thing, because it will move back and forth depending on the weather, so you should use a material that allows for expansion and contraction.
    Step flashing is the best, but in photo #2 you would have to remove the shingle mold ( white 1x4 ) but it gets buried towards the bottom, and they didn't weave the first few courses, so you still have a gap where water runs down.

    I would try to do the best you can with a bandaid fix cause that's all I can offer
    HTH and good luck!

    Tim
    Last edited by timothy; 10-03-2017 at 04:08 PM. Reason: SP
    Different smokes for different folks. Wish the Dollar Store sold gas!

  2. #12
    TVWBB Wizard Rusty James's Avatar
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    Since my original post, someone came back and installed a piece of metal flashing of some sort. Without a ladder, I couldn't get a closeup shot of the flashing, but if you look hard enough, you can see a shiny sliver-looking piece of metal.

    Not sure if caulking was applied (probably not), but in the next picture, you can see light between the flashing and a groove in the siding.



    Here's a better shot where the carport roof was attached to the house. I don't know what happened to the white metal trim around the edge of the roof line, but I thought about covering it with white exterior latex paint.



    Tim, the free end of the carport is supported by three 4x4 treated posts cemented into the ground. There is a partial concrete slab under the roof, but it does not extend to the location of the posts. Not sure if frost plays much of an issue with posts and foundations in these parts, but I've heard it creates problems up north.
    Last edited by Rusty James; 10-04-2017 at 09:45 PM.
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  3. #13
    TVWBB Hall of Fame timothy's Avatar
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    That was a third option, encapsulate the skewed angle with brake metal and seal the edges.
    Your underneath photo # 2 has enough room to add a healthy bead of caulk. I would recommend doing the roofing caulk ( like I linked upthread ) on top and using the same underneath.

    The fascia is 1" x 6" , you can find aluminum fascia to match that in 10' lengths at HD or any home improvement store.
    Do it right remove the pork chop and add the rake first, then do the soffit.

    HTH and if you have any questions please PM me.

    Tim
    Different smokes for different folks. Wish the Dollar Store sold gas!

  4. #14
    TVWBB Wizard Rusty James's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by timothy View Post
    The fascia is 1" x 6" , you can find aluminum fascia to match that in 10' lengths at HD or any home improvement store.

    Do it right remove the pork chop and add the rake first, then do the soffit.

    Tim
    Pork Chop??

    Is that the triangular piece covered with white aluminum fascia?

    Sorry, my carpentry language is fairly limited.

    I do know about a hog in the wall though. (masonry jargon)
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  5. #15
    TVWBB Hall of Fame timothy's Avatar
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    Yea that's it, in pic #3. Normally they are cut level at the bottom and plumb or square on the side. Sometimes we dress it up and add a skewed angle for curb appeal.
    I would remove it and either cut a new piece or if you can save it cut the back leg plumb.
    This way you run the fascia in one piece and bend it around the pork chop and return it on the back leg. It's easy to do if you take exact measurements, make a square line on the backside of the fascia and score it a few times with a utility knife ( use a speed square or small square to keep it straight) Then at the lip on the bottom ( at that same line) use tin snips and cut one square cut and an opposite 45 deg cut, when you fold it use a 1X or the edge of a speed square to keep a nice straight bend. The 45 deg cut folds over the square cut at the bottom and gives you another clean line.
    The rake is a small piece square or factory at the top and a plumb cut at the bottom, you cut out the bottom leg to fit over the chop and just use some white aluminum soffit nails to attach everything to the sub fascia.
    I wish I was in the neighborhood because I would help you out.

    Tim
    Different smokes for different folks. Wish the Dollar Store sold gas!

  6. #16
    TVWBB Wizard Rusty James's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by timothy View Post
    I wish I was in the neighborhood because I would help you out.

    Tim
    Me too!

    Tropical storm Nate paid us a visit this weekend, and, while I wasn't at the premises to watch water drain off the roof, the next day, I examined the wall underneath the flashing, and I couldn't see any evidence of leaking. With that said, however, I think your idea of using roof cement is a sound one. I'll take care of it ASAP.

    Got a few more issues to take care of too...







    Issues like this happen when you don't have enough roof overhang. This is actually a newer addition to the back of the house, but the carpenter (her husband - long deceased) did a poor job.
    Last edited by Rusty James; 10-11-2017 at 06:16 PM.
    18.5", 18.5", 14.5", & Royal Oak Lump / Briquettes

  7. #17
    TVWBB Hall of Fame Clint's Avatar
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    The title of this thread







    I'm sorry, just couldn't help myself

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